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Unread 03-19-2014, 01:36 AM   #1
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
New member! 97 ZJ. WA

Hello everyone! Im located in the Seattle area in Washington. Ive been into wheeling for a while. But recently came into my first Jeep, I got a 1997 Grand Cherokee ZJ 125k, V8 AWD, 4 inch lift, 33" toyo MTs, yukon rear locker, new tranny, Halo and HID, fog ligts, winch, bumpers, fender tubage, rack, tools, spare.

Shortly after getting it the front driveline went out at the CV, what could cause it? the 249 tcase? Cross member has spacers. I kinda plan on swapping to 231 and SYE. People have told me to put a cherokee front end in as well.

10012555_650737078295788_806849927_n.jpg  
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Unread 03-19-2014, 01:39 AM   #2
JeepZJStroker
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Marion, Iowa
Posts: 49
Nice looking ZJ man! I'm interested in the way how is the exo roll cage is connected! If you ever have pictures send them
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Unread 03-19-2014, 01:52 AM   #3
bobinAZ
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: bullhead city, AZ
Posts: 192
dont think your 249 has the same problems as the 95 and older Tcases. the lift plus tires may have been the problem. the smarter guy are gonna want to know whats involved in your lift.. I'm new to the jeep myself. nice ride though..
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Unread 03-19-2014, 08:49 AM   #4
96zj4me
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 73
Nice rig man I'm in south everett we should go trail riding I like to go granite falls mountain loop it's not to hard on your equipment it's ditch that cv driveline go to j/y get a u joint style I did this swap on mine it was to short I took it to driveline n/w thay fixed up for 100 bucks
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Unread 03-19-2014, 09:48 AM   #5
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss, MD
Posts: 16,029
The CV front shaft came apart because it's too short. They have the slip build in and it's not very much. They are fine for stock use and are smoother than a u joint but on a lifted ZJ they break fairly fast. It's not a question of if but when. Mine came apart with a 2" lift. Swap a u jointed shaft in with a new yoke. Also the high pinion d 30 isn't so much stronger that you should swap it in from an XJ. If your D30 grenades then think about it, plenty of folks roll with 33's and a d30 with no problem. If it's fine I would just wheel it the way it is.

I would check the 249 out after you get another U jointed shaft in there by driving in tight figure 8's and look for a very lumpy binding feeling when the wheel is turned all the way to lock. That means the VC is worn out.

As for the t case drop I would ditch that. Do you have all adjustable control arms? That is the correct way to adjust pinion and caster. Not a T case drop.

Very nice ZJ.
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Unread 03-19-2014, 12:04 PM   #6
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
The CV front shaft came apart because it's too short. They have the slip build in and it's not very much. They are fine for stock use and are smoother than a u joint but on a lifted ZJ they break fairly fast. It's not a question of if but when. Mine came apart with a 2" lift. Swap a u jointed shaft in with a new yoke. Also the high pinion d 30 isn't so much stronger that you should swap it in from an XJ. If your D30 grenades then think about it, plenty of folks roll with 33's and a d30 with no problem. If it's fine I would just wheel it the way it is.

I would check the 249 out after you get another U jointed shaft in there by driving in tight figure 8's and look for a very lumpy binding feeling when the wheel is turned all the way to lock. That means the VC is worn out.

As for the t case drop I would ditch that. Do you have all adjustable control arms? That is the correct way to adjust pinion and caster. Not a T case drop.

Very nice ZJ.
If I eliminate the spacers would that leave me at more risk or about the same of the front driveline going out again? and if I do a YJ ujtoint style swap driveline as 96zj4me mentioned.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 96zj4me View Post
Nice rig man I'm in south everett we should go trail riding I like to go granite falls mountain loop it's not to hard on your equipment it's ditch that cv driveline go to j/y get a u joint style I did this swap on mine it was to short I took it to driveline n/w thay fixed up for 100 bucks
What all did you have to get when you did the swap? And what did they fix?

Also thanks for the welcoming and information everyone! I will have more pics soon, a little more info too!
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Unread 03-19-2014, 12:10 PM   #7
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss, MD
Posts: 16,029
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlamingoDingo View Post

If I eliminate the spacers would that leave me at more risk or about the same of the front driveline going out again? and if I do a YJ ujtoint style swap driveline as 96zj4me mentioned.

What all did you have to get when you did the swap? And what did they fix?

Also thanks for the welcoming and information everyone! I will have more pics soon, a little more info too!
Nope it would still break. Its only good for stock really. You need to get a u joint yoke and a drive shaft from a 93- early 95 ZJ. Other applications like and xj would work too. There is also an adapter that you can get for a u joint shaft to bolt to the cv yoke but it can have vibes.
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Unread 03-19-2014, 12:27 PM   #8
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Nope it would still break. Its only good for stock really. You need to get a u joint yoke and a drive shaft from a 93- early 95 ZJ. Other applications like and xj would work too. There is also an adapter that you can get for a u joint shaft to bolt to the cv yoke but it can have vibes.
What would I need from an XJ? My friend has one with a bad motor. Ill look into an early ZJ as well.
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Unread 03-19-2014, 02:04 PM   #9
Gearhead31
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: St Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,921
Welcome to the forum, and really nice jeep build you have there! I'm digging the partial exoskeleton, I want to do that myself one day!

As for the driveline issue, I second Polka's advice. You definitely need to deal with changing that CV joint to a U-joint. Some older ZJ's have them. Others seem to pull them out of the XJ's or buy the conversion kits to do it. CV joints break under any lifted axle articulation far more than not.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 09:41 AM   #10
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Just found that my headliner is DRENCHED. I wondered why there was moisture on the inside of the windshield sometimes. Water must be coming in through the holes where the roof rack poke in.

Whats best to seal the holes? Check for leaks? Dry the headliner?
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Unread 03-20-2014, 09:55 AM   #11
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss, MD
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I would use silicone. Do you have a sunroof? Get a couple buckets of "Damp Rid" from the hardware store and leave them in your jeep. They will absorb all of the water. Don't leave it in the sun with the windows up on a hot day unless you want the headliner to come down and the interior to smell like swamp ***.
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Unread 03-20-2014, 09:17 PM   #12
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I would use silicone. Do you have a sunroof? Get a couple buckets of "Damp Rid" from the hardware store and leave them in your jeep. They will absorb all of the water. Don't leave it in the sun with the windows up on a hot day unless you want the headliner to come down and the interior to smell like swamp ***.
Yea has a sunroof, was very sunny today, it dried it up. I dont know if its just hiding somewhere or if its all from 1 rainfall. Guess ill have to get to sealing on my day off
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Unread 04-03-2014, 08:47 PM   #13
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Welp been busy with work, im going to pick up a CV style driveline until I do a cherokee swap, would like to have awd to play a bit. But the leak I believe is coming form the door, it doesnt close all the way, siliconed the seals, kinda tweaked the door to make ti close better but still gets wet. Could be sunroof? I notice that there are some type of screws going into the headliner around the sunroof. But the way the water builds up im lead to believe its from the door. Last night the starter started clicking, going to replace that really soon.

Couple questions.
Is it bad to drive around without the front driveline? Ive heard it messes the tcase up.
I have 1.5 wide tires, found nice brand new beadlock wheels but they are 8 wide, that a bad idea to run? Ricers do it but
I think I hear my axle bearings in the rear, I think they are pressed, people tell me to just swap the axle?

Heres a couple more pictures that I have
1236923_662669637102532_353933698_n.jpg   10003487_655070977862398_303233509_n.jpg  
10176071_662669900435839_1499984784_n.jpg

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Unread 05-31-2014, 01:32 AM   #14
FlamingoDingo
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Covington, Washington
Posts: 8
Little update. And some questions.
Drivleine was swapped with a yolk and ranger driveline with ujoints.
CV axles swapped with chrome alloys and ujoints

When I turn, the jeep seems to hop, and now at 35-45 mph I get death wobble, might be from the recent mud bath, (first mud bath yesterday) I also took it to the dunes but didnt have wobble after that. Im thinking ball joints
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Unread 05-31-2014, 04:49 PM   #15
tucsonzj
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 2,143
ask for the 249 case question in your other post, you dont have the same issue as pre-96 249 cases do (unless you got screwed and got a really old tcase, but that's unlikely). rear bearings aren't too bad to do from what i hear but haven't done them myself.

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the reason i bet you experience your hop is now you have a ujoint to ujoint connection. your front drive shaft and your shafts in your front axle and ujoint. 93-95 with 249 had cv's in the axles and u joint drive shaft, 96-98 with the 249 had u joint in axles and cv on drive shaft to make it smoother and prevent binding.

easy fix is to swap t cases to a 242 or 231. this will allow you to be in 2wd on the street.
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