So I think the 4.0 intake was badly designed. Every tie I looked at it I thought to myself "how does this thing even breathe? So I was in autozone getting some degreaser and went by the filter isle and thought "why not?". 93 bucks and a few lazy hours later I got this...
It actually made an improvement power-wise. I was pretty surprised during the 4am parkway test drive. It definitely pulls harder. It also sounds totally badass at WOT. Somewhere in between the 4.7 and the GM supercharged V6's. I'll try and get a vid up.
Removing the airbox (which is a ***** and a half without a flexhead, I had to break it) freed up so much space I think I may invest in a turbo when I build up a 4.8 stroker from a junkyard 4.0.
For now though, I say my money was well spent. You can probably do this for even cheaper if you go the ebay/home depot route. Anyone saying their 4.slow doesn't have enough umph should do this little mod.
[B][I]New Mexico Driving Rules...[/I][/B][LIST][*]As a general rule, the vehicle most in need of a significant amount of bodywork (for which the driver is most likely uninsured) always has the right of way.[*]Never use directional signals when changing lanes. They only serve to give away your next move, causing most NM drivers to speed up and not let you in. In fact, use of directional signals within most large NM city limits is actual illegal.[*]NM law states that at least 50% of all paved surfaces within the state must be under construction at any one time. In all construction zones, at least half of the available lanes must be closed, regardless of whether any actual construction is be accomplished or not. Construction signs shall be regularly repositioned in order to warn drivers about upcoming lane closures immediately after they pass the last exit before traffic backups.
[*]Driving through constructions zones with upcoming lane closures is a popular game in NM. Itís called the "speed up and pass as many cars as you can, then see how close to the lane closure you can squeeze back into traffic before hitting any of the orange construction barrels" game.[/LIST]
all those ridges won't help you at all. Stock is safer as well. If you had a fat radiator hose to the filter you would get the WOT noise boost but there is little to no way you gained power from that. This has been tested and tried so many times
I like the budget air intake however there are a couple of changes that i would do. First, i would make sure that thing is bolted down good. I wouldnt want it to fall off on a trail. Also, add a heat shield to help keep the intake temp. down
I would try to find some way around using the dryer hose stuff. See if you can replace that section at the throttle body with a solid 90* bend of PVC or even rubber. Also your tube is going to get as hot as everything else in the engine compartment and subsequently increase the temp of the air going into the engine. I actually have a cheap ebay intake that had the same problem, so I wrapped it in three layers of AC duct insulation and wrapped that in aluminum tape to keep it secured. Works very well. Look at my build thread for pictures of it.
2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.
Thanks for some useful words. I'll definitely be looking into the PVC and insulation. Helps that I work at Home Depot... (no discounts though).
As far as the dryer duct crap heading to the air filter goes, that's the most flexible option I can think of. Getting rubber to bend and stay where you want to doesn't always work. Not exactly much wiggle room through the hole in the plastic and behind the grille either.
The closest this Jeep gets to trails is rolling through the pebbles in the street left by the many cement mixing plants around where I work.
I guess I'll scavenge around the plumbing area of HD and see what I come up with.
Last edited by Tbirdbassist; 09-20-2009 at 08:49 PM..