Need help removing sway bar link - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-27-2012, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
jwildman16
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1998 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: CO
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Need help removing sway bar link

I have a '98 GC. The front left sway bar link broke. The ball joint comes out of the socket. I got most of it off, but the ball and the threaded bolt connected to it are stuck in the end of the sway bar. Any suggestions on how to get it out? I got a Pitman arm puller, but it ended up being too big to grab the sway bar, so I can't push the bolt out with that. Any other ideas?

I swear it looks expanded in there. I guess after 15 years of being in there, it's gotten pretty comfortable...

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post #2 of 14 Old 04-27-2012, 08:57 PM
jtackerman28
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Tie Tod seperator

3.5 re lift, double sheer front tb, 31" wrangler duratecs
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-27-2012, 09:06 PM
booked101
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^ or a smaller pitman arm puller.

good gas mileage is highly overrated.
(J)ust(E)mpty(E)very(P)ocket
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-27-2012, 09:51 PM
Bigdjs123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtackerman28
Tie Tod seperator
And a big hammer
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-29-2012, 10:41 PM
big_rudy101
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hahaha.
Ahh man, I just had to do this like 2 weeks ago.
Its a son of a gun, I know..

How did I do it?

Torch. Worked liked a charm.

"Jeep is America's only real sports car" - Enzo Ferarri
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-29-2012, 10:42 PM
Freestyle713
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Just cut it off. They sell them for $15 at auto zone.

94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 33in. Federal Couragia M/T's on Procomp Steelies, np231 swap, IRO Hack n Tap SYE, Carolina Driveshaft, 4.5 in. lift, RE front upper/rear lower ca's, RC front lowers, Ironman rear uppers, IRO 4.5 coils in rear, 3.5 and 2" bb (no isolators) in front, Bilstein 5100's, Clayton/JKS adj. track bars, KOR rad support and SS, Magnaflow/Flowmaster exhaust, clear corners, custom light bar w/ Hella 500's

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post #7 of 14 Old 04-29-2012, 11:20 PM
Mickey_D
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What I did was fully removed the sway bar from the vehicle. It's only 6 bolts. Hardest part was getting it over the lower radiator hose.

Once out, set the sway bar on a curb and bash the remainder of the end link out. Works a treat and is SOOOO much easier than any other alternative. Only took two hits with a 16oz sledge to get both of mine out and they were 200,000 mile originals.

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1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 06:21 AM
gearheadnick
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Mine did the same thing. I got a "pickle fork" attachment for my air chisel and gave it hell. It popped out reasonably quick.

My cylinder head overhaul: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/cylinder-head-r-r-picture-heavy-1348138/
My transmission overhaul: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/how-change-transmission-electronics-1560948/
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
jwildman16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_rudy101
hahaha.
Ahh man, I just had to do this like 2 weeks ago.
Its a son of a gun, I know..

How did I do it?

Torch. Worked liked a charm.
Ah, sweet. What did you do exactly, just heat it up a bit and then you were able to free it?
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
jwildman16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D
What I did was fully removed the sway bar from the vehicle. It's only 6 bolts. Hardest part was getting it over the lower radiator hose.

Once out, set the sway bar on a curb and bash the remainder of the end link out. Works a treat and is SOOOO much easier than any other alternative. Only took two hits with a 16oz sledge to get both of mine out and they were 200,000 mile originals.
I was hoping to not have to remove the whole sway bar, but I think you may be right - it might be the easiest way to go. You didn't have much trouble getting the bar out with the end links still attached?
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 07:44 AM
Mickey_D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwildman16 View Post
I was hoping to not have to remove the whole sway bar, but I think you may be right - it might be the easiest way to go. You didn't have much trouble getting the bar out with the end links still attached?
Not at all. It took some head scratching to figure out how to get it over the lower rad hose, but it was a LOT easier than trying to get any major tools into the fender well to remove the end link while in place.

1997 ZJ 5.2 Orvis, Baby!
1953 Willys M100 trailer Tagalong
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 03:42 PM
dusterdude
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Its not hard to remove,i did it when i did my links
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 03:43 PM
Oldfrog
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Over the lower hose?

( I cant remember if it's over or under)

2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-30-2012, 08:46 PM
big_rudy101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwildman16 View Post
Ah, sweet. What did you do exactly, just heat it up a bit and then you were able to free it?
I took a large socket and fit it over the ball, then took a big c clamp on put it on the bottom of the socket and on top of the post part. With the threads..

Tighted that down reealllllll nice and tight. Then took a torch to it and stood back. Be careful though. Because when the heat finally makes it give, and that clamp is tightened down, when it finally pops, it POPS!

It scared the hell outta me. But, it worked.

"Jeep is America's only real sports car" - Enzo Ferarri
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