Need advice: Question on steering stabilizer?? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Need advice: Question on steering stabilizer??

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineSteering and more from Ruffstuff!The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!

Reply
Unread 07-14-2013, 07:31 AM   #1
zjseeker
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Springfield, Ohio
Posts: 15
Need advice: Question on steering stabilizer??

I'm Trying to work on my own stuff (98 Grand Cherokee Laredo), just keeping this one stock. Can anyone tell me if the the stabilizer/damper to link stud is threaded into the bar? Or, Can this be knocked out? Having trouble. Thanks for any help.

zjseeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 07:37 AM   #2
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 5,309
There is a hole on the draglink, no threads. Mounting bolt/ stud is just frozen in there.. give it some heat with a MAPP gun or propane torch, it should come out.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 07:44 AM   #3
zjseeker
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Springfield, Ohio
Posts: 15
Thanks TIMO, it's good to have those willing to lend a hand quickly. Appreciate you
zjseeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 07:47 AM   #4
Metallheadd
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Mount Ulla, NC
Posts: 80
Its locked in a taper. I used a pitman arm puller to release it. Crank it down tight and a good hit with a ballpeen popped it right out. This one is what I used.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...man+arm+puller
Metallheadd is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 07:56 AM   #5
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,251
Agree on the heat which I've used along with a bunch of PB. The hole's tapered so it's compressed in there and most likely rusted/seized. While maybe not the right way I've stuck a long crowbar in there against the drag link/other linkage and something solid so the hammer blows are against something solid. But watch out since it comes out of there with a whole lot of force when it finally does. They have loaner tools at your local auto parts store for getting it out/off but I've never had to borrow one. Good luck!
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 08:00 AM   #6
AVR2
Web Wheeler
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 2,193
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
But watch out since it comes out of there with a whole lot of force when it finally does
Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.
AVR2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 08:22 AM   #7
Timo_90xj
Web Wheeler
 
Timo_90xj's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland - on the European side of the Atlantic
Posts: 5,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.
This!

Yes, it has a taper like TREs do, that combined with rust and it does seize in there pretty tight. Pitman arm or TRE puller can be used, but IMO isn't necessary if OP already doesn't have one.

First heat, then unthread the nut almost all the way (leave a couple full threads), a couple whacks on the draglink under the mounting hole, then a couple of whacks at the end of the stud and it should come out. If not, more heat and a couple more whacks! ..oh, and never underestimate the power of penetrating fluids sprayed for a couple of days in advance!
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
Timo_90xj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
gmtech22
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 42
I had to end up drilling into the center of the stud, using an air hammer, lots of heat, and penetrating spray when I replaced mine. I tried using several different style pitman arm and tie rod end pullers but they wouldn't budge it. I coated the new stud with some anti-seize before installing it as a precaution in case it needs to be removed again.
gmtech22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 07-14-2013, 10:38 AM   #9
Uniblurb
Web Wheeler
 
Uniblurb's Avatar
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 3,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.
Yeah, know you're right on this one AVR2 for safety sake.
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
Uniblurb is online now   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.