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-   -   Need advice: Question on steering stabilizer?? (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/need-advice-question-steering-stabilizer-1548729/)

zjseeker 07-14-2013 07:31 AM

Need advice: Question on steering stabilizer??
 
I'm Trying to work on my own stuff (98 Grand Cherokee Laredo), just keeping this one stock. Can anyone tell me if the the stabilizer/damper to link stud is threaded into the bar? Or, Can this be knocked out? Having trouble. Thanks for any help.

Timo_90xj 07-14-2013 07:37 AM

There is a hole on the draglink, no threads. Mounting bolt/ stud is just frozen in there.. give it some heat with a MAPP gun or propane torch, it should come out.

zjseeker 07-14-2013 07:44 AM

Thanks TIMO, it's good to have those willing to lend a hand quickly. Appreciate you

Metallheadd 07-14-2013 07:47 AM

Its locked in a taper. I used a pitman arm puller to release it. Crank it down tight and a good hit with a ballpeen popped it right out. This one is what I used.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...man+arm+puller

Uniblurb 07-14-2013 07:56 AM

Agree on the heat which I've used along with a bunch of PB. The hole's tapered so it's compressed in there and most likely rusted/seized. While maybe not the right way I've stuck a long crowbar in there against the drag link/other linkage and something solid so the hammer blows are against something solid. But watch out since it comes out of there with a whole lot of force when it finally does. They have loaner tools at your local auto parts store for getting it out/off but I've never had to borrow one. Good luck!

AVR2 07-14-2013 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uniblurb (Post 15674758)
But watch out since it comes out of there with a whole lot of force when it finally does

Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.

Timo_90xj 07-14-2013 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVR2 (Post 15674765)
Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.

This!

Yes, it has a taper like TREs do, that combined with rust and it does seize in there pretty tight. Pitman arm or TRE puller can be used, but IMO isn't necessary if OP already doesn't have one.

First heat, then unthread the nut almost all the way (leave a couple full threads), a couple whacks on the draglink under the mounting hole, then a couple of whacks at the end of the stud and it should come out. If not, more heat and a couple more whacks! :thumbsup: ..oh, and never underestimate the power of penetrating fluids sprayed for a couple of days in advance! :)

gmtech22 07-14-2013 08:32 AM

I had to end up drilling into the center of the stud, using an air hammer, lots of heat, and penetrating spray when I replaced mine. I tried using several different style pitman arm and tie rod end pullers but they wouldn't budge it. I coated the new stud with some anti-seize before installing it as a precaution in case it needs to be removed again.

Uniblurb 07-14-2013 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVR2 (Post 15674765)
Always a good idea to leave the nut threaded loosely so that when the joint finally does let go, the nut stops everything springing violently apart.

Yeah, know you're right on this one AVR2 for safety sake.


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