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Unread 07-09-2013, 06:04 AM   #16
98ZJOKC
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Don't forget to file a complaint with your local better business bureau. At the very least, you might help someone else out. Sometimes, in order to clean up their record, the shop will attempt to resolve the issue, which in this case would mean refunding the money they charged you and pay for the damaged parts and labor for the repair.

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Unread 07-09-2013, 10:05 AM   #17
KJK
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It's not at all uncommon for these cross pin bolts to break (Google "cross pin bolt sheared off"). They get fatigued from the crosspin working on them.

There is a special tool available to aid in the removal of the broken piece so the carrier doesn't have to end up like yours did.

The shop should have at least made you aware of this being a possibility beforehand so you could have worked out who would be responsible for what.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 11:21 AM   #18
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJK View Post
It's not at all uncommon for these cross pin bolts to break (Google "cross pin bolt sheared off"). They get fatigued from the crosspin working on them.
Common failure or not, that is not the way a broken cross shaft pin should be removed. Heck, as was already suggested using heat before removing the bolt should make it fairly easy to get it out without braking it.

If it's already broken, then there are a few tricks how to get the remaining parts out. Not easy, but shouldn't require the mechanic to destroy the whole carrier..
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-09-2013, 12:17 PM   #19
jenniferny
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Does the factory use Loctite?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lwister View Post
One possibility is the cross shaft pin bolt could have been loc tighted in but from the pictures I do not see any on the threads. It could have beeen cleaned off. The correct way to remove the bolt that has been loc-tighted in is to apply some heat with a torch. This loosens the loc-tight and will allow the bolt to be removed. If the bolt head snapped off when removed, it could have been drilled out. I have never seen in 40+ years of working on cars a diff. distroyed in this manner.
"The correct way to remove the bolt that has been loc-tighted in is to apply some heat with a torch"

I have owned it since 2000. It has not been apart since built by Jeep. Do you know, does the factoiry use Loctite on this bolt??

Thank You for your reply and help!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:12 PM   #20
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Wow they really screwed things up and you could have had a bad accident. You are right I would never go back there for sure. I would have to say that it is not a common bolt to break. Mine had no issues when removing it.
It's not easy to get money back from a shop that does you wrong but you may have a good case here. After a few times getting burned myself as a teenager, I started to learn to work on things myself. I don't like taking it to shops ever. When I do I ask around for the best/ honest shop from the local 4x4 clubs. Out in Las Vegas it was easy to find a good mechanic because off roading is very popular. Not so sure about where I live now so I hope I never have to take it in for something above my abilities.


Here is a link with pictures of how to remove the axles. The pic of the bolt is in post 3 http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=482547
Thanks for the link!! It looks like a E-Torx. I wonder if maybe they didnt have the correct socket or wrench. That would make a lot of sense as to why they couldnt get it out in the beginning if they tried to use a standard 6 point socket, and jam it on, to remove the bolt instead of an E-Torx socket.
I very rarely take my Jeep anywhere for repairs. I have learned to do most things myself, but with my injuries there are some things that are just not possible for me to do now. This was one of them. It would have taken my forever to do. To give you an idea of what I mean, what would take most people here a few hours, will take me days, maybe a week. I can only work on my Jeep for 30-45 minutes a day. Then I need another one to two days for my body to recover before I can go back and do more. Growing up in a "Car" family it wasnt that hard to learn how to do most things, its just not that easy to do them any more but I keep plugging along.
Last year I had a tire shop that was doing my NY State Inspection & tire rotation overtighten my wheels so bad that the next shop had to burn one lugnut & stud off with a torch. I watched them work at it for over an hour before they finally got to that point. Now, I demnd that NO air tools are to be used to install my wheels. I stand there and watch the whole time my Jeep or T/A is being worked on, even if it has to be outside in the winter and its 10 degrees! This time, the repairs were going to take a couple days and I did not have another car so I could go there and watch, which meant I had to let someone work on my car where I could not be there and this is the result. There is a lot more to the story too. For example, the guy said they had to change the oil because it was 1 1/2 qts. low. Then he says that the last person that changed the oil didnt bother to change the filter. When he said that I was squirming in my seat! I checked ALL fluids before taking my Jeep in, and all lights. The oil was barely 1/2 qt low and the transmission was still in the safe zone. What he didnt know was, I was the one that changed the oil the last time. I put in Mobil 1 AND I DID CHANGE THE FILTER. It took everything I had not to go off on him, but after hearing that I knew it would be a waste of my breath so I just wanted to get me & my Jeep out of there. Being a woman I occasionally run into a superior thinking male that think I am, and women in general are, just a stupid no-nothing woman that would not know an oil filter from a muffler bearing. That is one of the things I like here on the Jeep Forum. I have NEVER been treated like just a stupid woman. Everyone here is GREAT and does everything they can to help others!! I was so upset at this guy that I couldnt say a word. I was afraid that I would completely lose control when his 'superiority' attitude continued as he talked down at me. I just got me & my Jeep out of there with plans to address it later with his supervisor later.
Finding a good shop is hard, that I know. I keep looking for a shop that I can trust. Where I use to live I had one, but I havent found one cloe to where I am now yet.

Thanks again for your help!!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:27 PM   #21
KJK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timo_90xj View Post
Common failure or not, that is not the way a broken cross shaft pin should be removed. Heck, as was already suggested using heat before removing the bolt should make it fairly easy to get it out without braking it.

If it's already broken, then there are a few tricks how to get the remaining parts out. Not easy, but shouldn't require the mechanic to destroy the whole carrier..
Uh yea, I agree. Read the next sentence in the post you quoted...
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:36 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJK View Post
Uh yea, I agree. Read the next sentence in the post you quoted...
Yeah, Í read that part. No special tools are really required, I've removed a couple broken cross shaft pins from a D35 with a drill bit, a couple different punches and a hammer.

But, they can be a pain to get off especially if already broken.
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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:38 PM   #23
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
to pull the axles out, they need to remove the cross pin so the axle will move inward far enough to pull the c clip out. but if they cut up your carrier before asking you if they could and letting you know the cost of a new one, they should be paying for a new carrier IMO.
I read a thread that Polka Power posted on this repair and it helped a lot to read it. It would be nice if they would pay for the case, and I believe that they should have asked before destroying the case. If this particular bolt breaking is unusual I have to ask why it broke. Did they do every thing they should have to prevent it from breaking. Did they use the proper socket? When it didnt come loose, was there anything they could have done to break it free before snapping it?? Why didnt they try heat?? That is a common 'go to' when you cant loosen a bolt or nut. I dont think I have ever seen a shop that didnt have a set of torches. Why didnt they use it? This is exactly why I do not like taking my Jeep or T/A to a shop for repairs and I try to learn and do them myself.

BTW, he did tell me the cost of a new case. He said it was $125. Problem with that is, my Jeep has the Dana 44HD and he quoted me the price for a Dana35. He did not even know what he was working on. The price for a Dana 44HD case was almost $700 when I looked it up.

Thank You for responding and for the info!!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:45 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
The $700 is probably for the trac-lok case which is a POS anyway. Just get the normal open case.
The $700 was for a posi case. It had posi and living where there is snow I want to have posi so putting in an open diff is not an option from where I sit.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airwolf9090 View Post
If i was you i would make that shop pay another shop to fix everything they broke or caused to break, Or take it to another shop have them do an estimate on cost of repairs of what that other shop did then take it to small claims court, Any good shop would of let you know before they started to cut anything that would cost you extra money
I am still hopeful that I can get this resolved with out going to court or the BBB. Depends on whether I can talk to a reasonable person that will listen.
Thanks for responding!
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Unread 07-09-2013, 01:54 PM   #26
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnuccio View Post
the shop should be paying for all these things they broke IMO.
I agree, I am still hopeful that I can find a reasonable person to deal with.

Thanks for responding.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 02:00 PM   #27
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You need to talk to the owner and the owner only, no one else can solve the issue.

I assume there is a work order that was done up prior to any work being done?
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Unread 07-09-2013, 03:16 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
Problem with that is, my Jeep has the Dana 44HD and he quoted me the price for a Dana35. He did not even know what he was working on.
Careful... You have a Dana 44A, not an HD. Well, unless you or someone else did a swap. The niners have 44A's from the factory. I *believe* the carriers are different.

Personally I'd be VERY upset about the loose lug nuts. The rest is just fuel to the fire. Damage to the Jeep is one thing; the lugs could've gotten people killed.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 03:22 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBlackfoot View Post
Careful... You have a Dana 44A, not an HD. Well, unless you or someone else did a swap. The niners have 44A's from the factory. I *believe* the carriers are different.
The Dana 44A is also call a Dana44HD, any '96+ ZJ with a V8 had a D44a in it. Carrier will differ between one that had factory limited slip and one the did not.
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Unread 07-09-2013, 04:11 PM   #30
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D44a = D44HD
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