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Savvy Aluminum Gas Tank SkidFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control Arms

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Unread 01-18-2013, 10:36 PM   #31
MTBlue
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Helena, MT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
The interior ligths flickering is a known problem caused by bad solder joints on the light control panel. I just redid them in my 96 and once I get the niner back it will get the same treatment. Take the light control panel (dash board left of the steering wheel to be clear) out, pull the white cover off the back and reheat all the solder points. Reinstall and it should be good to go.
AWESOME!! Thank you thank you thank you! started to freak me out haha I'll post pictures.

Gonna do the interior light/gauge cluster LED swap soon, and cleaning my headlight lenses before I upgrade the headlights to Sylvania Silverstar Ultras and the fogs to 4300k HID bulbs. Lots of cosmetic for the moment, as I clreally can't afford things like tires, lift, etc haha

-Evan

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'98 5.9, bad transmission, leaking radiator, tears in the seats, BUT THE WINDOWS ROLL UP!
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Unread 01-19-2013, 06:25 PM   #32
MTBlue
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Stitched up the bumper! Doesn't look half bad, if you ask me It got dark on me as I was finishing up, so I'll try to get some better pictures come daylight tomorrow. Overall, though, it seems to work well. Nice and clean!
wp_000352.jpg   wp_000354.jpg  
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'98 5.9, bad transmission, leaking radiator, tears in the seats, BUT THE WINDOWS ROLL UP!
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Unread 01-19-2013, 10:31 PM   #33
MTBlue
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Found the source of the clunking noise from the front end! The washer (?) that holds the bushing came off because there is NO NUT holding anything in place! Thankfully, the bushing was still there, and the washer hadn't gone far. So all I gotta do is buy a new nut, and since the shock mount is in such a bad spot (directly under the master cylinder), I need to remove all that crap temporarily. I'll upload pictures when I start in on the fix. Cannot WAIT to finally be rid of this obnoxious thunking/squeaking sound!!!
wp_000358.jpg   wp_000366.jpg   wp_000370.jpg  
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'98 5.9, bad transmission, leaking radiator, tears in the seats, BUT THE WINDOWS ROLL UP!
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Unread 01-19-2013, 10:33 PM   #34
MTBlue
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Oh yeah, sorry for all the huge pictures. They come from my phone camera, which is like 8MP, so all the pictures turn out absolutely gigantic.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 10:49 PM   #35
hezx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBlue View Post
Found the source of the clunking noise from the front end! The washer (?) that holds the bushing came off because there is NO NUT holding anything in place! Thankfully, the bushing was still there, and the washer hadn't gone far. So all I gotta do is buy a new nut, and since the shock mount is in such a bad spot (directly under the master cylinder), I need to remove all that crap temporarily. I'll upload pictures when I start in on the fix. Cannot WAIT to finally be rid of this obnoxious thunking/squeaking sound!!!
damn bro.... got lucky finding that... better early then later
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Unread 01-19-2013, 11:36 PM   #36
MTBlue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hezx View Post
damn bro.... got lucky finding that... better early then later
I knew it had to do with the shock, so I got under there and wiggled it around. The looseness of it absolutely blew me away! So I knew it had to be the mount, since the lower portion was solid as a rock. I went through and looked closer at the wheel-well portion of the mount, and everything seemed to be there. Then I dove into the engine compartment in search of the upper part of the mount. That's how I found all the missing crap. Had to dig through some detritus in the engine compartment to find the washer. Somehow the seal along the top of the firewall/gutter area had come loose, letting a bunch of debris in, so I fixed that too.

I have a feeling this rig is gonna keep me very busy

-Evan
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Unread 01-20-2013, 01:26 AM   #37
Myusername1674
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Hey man, to post pictures with titles and such, what you do is go make an account on Photobucket, upload your pictures there, and then copy the "IMG code"
Paste it to your post and then it should work for ya
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My 5.9 swap (in progress)

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Unread 01-23-2013, 02:11 PM   #38
MTBlue
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Quick question, what would happen if I took the bolts that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster off? Anything? I just don't want to do it and F my whole brake system up. Any idea?



On both sides.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 06:30 PM   #39
ZeeJay1997
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What would lead you to take the nuts off the studs unless you you were changing the master cylinder or booster?
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Unread 01-23-2013, 08:38 PM   #40
MTBlue
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I can't get at the stupid shock mount without taking the whole master cylinder off. I need to get air tools down there, and I can't get an impact wrench in there without removing the master cylinder and the part that all the brake lines feed into as well. I could probably get away with just removing the brake line-part (I don't know the name!!), but I feel like short of taking that mess out, it would just be easier to remove the whole master cylinder. Did that make sense?
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Unread 01-23-2013, 09:10 PM   #41
ZeeJay1997
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All you need to do is put a nut on the shock?

Step away from the impact gun. Get a wrench.
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Unread 01-23-2013, 10:55 PM   #42
MTBlue
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That's probably not a bad idea, but I feel like the other side (passengers) is on so tightly I'll never be able to duplicate it without using an impact gun. Is it supposed to be flat as that? I have pictures higher up in the thread of my fingers next to the passenger side nut and then how the setup looks on the drivers side mount. The passenger side nut is on there GOOD!
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Unread 01-24-2013, 01:19 AM   #43
jetjr91
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I believe the bushing is suppose to be tightened down til its the same diameter as the washer holding it down don't need an impact to do that I did it with a wrench
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Unread 01-24-2013, 04:11 AM   #44
ZeeJay1997
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The end of the shock rod is flattened so you can grab it with vice grips or put a small wrench on it while you turn the nut. Put a little penetrating oil on it the night before.

I always double nut the top shock mount just because I can.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 06:07 AM   #45
x10radsponge
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I might have missed it but ebay is a good source for the hatch lift supports. I tried the PAP/JY route and while they are better then what I had, not as good as new. Rear bumper skins can be bought of the web fairly cheap also. Would cost more to get it painted then the actual part. Good luck with you new toy.
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