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post #46 of 295 Old 06-04-2006, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep
Heat...heat it out!


I'm afraid to do that because it's so close to the engine block.

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post #47 of 295 Old 06-04-2006, 08:21 PM
Virmagicus
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Spray some PB blaster real good and repeat . Will work
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post #48 of 295 Old 06-04-2006, 08:25 PM
Skyline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anticrombie
Oh ok...Well anyways, I can not get that steering stabalizer out to save my life. I've taken off the bolt, and hit it with a flipping 8 pound sledge, and it still won't come out. Any ideas? I've also tried using a pickle fork and hammer and that even won't work.
This is the tool you want:



If you ever see one of these things for sale, BUY IT!

This trick little press will pop your steering stabilizer out without breaking a sweat. Just turn the nut with an 19mm wrench. For the stabilzer I do need to flip the bottom half over to get good contact. It was designed to pull tie rod ends off, and cost me $87 15 years ago. At the time, I though that was a lot, but it has proven to be indespensible. The great thing about it is, that unlike a pickle fork, it will not harm the tie rod end or rubber boot at all. It will also easily seperate a drag link from a pitman arm or a tie rod from a drag link.

The bad news is that I've never seen one for sale since, (perhaps another member knows a source!) The BMW high performance specialty shop I bought it from is long since gone. It's a German made tool, made by a company called Stahlwille, and it's marked part no. 12616.

Should all else fail, or you can't find one of these, I recommend that you torch the drag link to red hot at the spot the stabilizer is attached before wailing on it with the BFH. A good whack on the side can also help.

'96 Green ZJ Laredo V8; 4.5" SA lift, RE 4.5 Springs JKS CA's, MX-6 Shocks, OME SS, Kevins TB Conversion, JKS rear TB, JKS Discos, Kevins Sliders, 16x8 Pro Comp Wheels, Dunlop Mud Rovers (33's)
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post #49 of 295 Old 06-04-2006, 08:29 PM
ArloGuthroJeep
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I heated this up which is right next to my power steering pump/hoses. Just keep the flame aimed and it'll be fine:


Burning afterwords:

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #50 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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YESS! I got it off! Now I have to find a stinkin 9/16 bit with a 3/8 shank...Ugh!
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post #51 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 01:18 PM
ArloGuthroJeep
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When you start getting into that big of bits then get pricey fast

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #52 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 01:19 PM
ArloGuthroJeep
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I think a 5/8th bit was around $30

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #53 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 01:30 PM
Varkyl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep
I think a 5/8th bit was around $30
It all depends on where you get it at. I got a 3/4" at Lowe's for about $17.

Nathan
One slightly modified '96 ZJ

new sig coming soon
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post #54 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 01:31 PM
ArloGuthroJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varkyl
It all depends on where you get it at. I got a 3/4" at Lowe's for about $17.
And the quality of the bit...


I got mine at a local hardware store that has EVERYTHING, but is priced accordingly

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #55 of 295 Old 06-05-2006, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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Well I never did find one. I did a combination of reaming out the whole with a 1/2 inch bit and a dremel tool. Finally got it in there.


The front is complete except for some trimming and bending of the pinch seam so I can turn. Although I do have one issue...When turning, where my tierod and drag link connect hits my QD on the passenger side. Is mine just bent or something?
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post #56 of 295 Old 06-06-2006, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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ARG!!!! Got it all bolted up and tight, and took it for a test drive. I noticed a lot of rear end sway in it, so I got home and checked out the rear. Had my brother push on the side of the jeep to rock it back and forth, and noticed all the play was coming from the axle side of the track bar. I then realized that I was stupid and forgot to put the metal sleeve back in the bushing after I pushed it out by accident. ARG! and since I had to cut the orignal track bar bolt and nut off with a cut off wheel, I have to use a socket on the back side of the nut to tighten it up. Thus meaning I have to take off the UCA on that side to get to the bolt.....I'M SO FRUSTRATED WITH MYSELF! And now I can't get anyone to help me work on it till after 6 tomorrow, meaning I can't get it alligned till thursday...meaning I can't drive till thursday afternoon. All because I was STUPID!!
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post #57 of 295 Old 06-06-2006, 10:24 PM
SuRf 092
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Have patience dude. You'll be mall crawlin in 2-HI in no time.

2004 WJ 470 H.O.
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?p=84888
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post #58 of 295 Old 06-06-2006, 11:05 PM
EMTimZJ
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Char, its alright crap happens! Good to see you wrenching, learning, lifting, and now I want to see you wheel. I better see you at GSE or GSSE
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post #59 of 295 Old 06-07-2006, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTimZJ
Char, its alright crap happens! Good to see you wrenching, learning, lifting, and now I want to see you wheel. I better see you at GSE or GSSE

Are you going to GSSE at Tellico?
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post #60 of 295 Old 06-08-2006, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
anticrombie
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Now I have to replace the tie rod because it's seized....
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