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Unread 04-18-2012, 12:28 PM   #46
ElkhornRanch
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: , ND/AZ
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I'm interested to see how it works out for you. Like you pointed out, the hitch's rating is based on previous attachment points. Don't know why folks keep getting stuck on "2,000 lbs"; doesn't really apply anymore. Steel is steel, your NEW attachment methods are the ones in question. Good OR bad.
Good luck!

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Unread 04-18-2012, 12:39 PM   #47
JohnnyZJ
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1995 ZJ 
 
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sorry beaker, to answer your question, i'm just a prick.

i used to sugar coat things for people (still do i work in sales etc) but the reality is i'm a pretty blunt guy, and thats how i treat people. take this for what its worth; i would say THE EXACT same thing to your face as well. that is because i don't say crap to be a prick, but because what i see is just wrong. and i don't want to be the one to pull your stuck *** out. the guys with sketchy tow points are ALWAYS the ones getting into stupid situations.......

i'd also rather be told i'm an idiot, have my feelings hurt, when somethings wrong, then to have someone sugar coat it, ignore me, and wait for it to fail in the bush, and have them 'conveniently' leave
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Unread 04-18-2012, 04:07 PM   #48
speedbucket
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We have an awesome Guy in our club that is an engineer/fabrication dude. No way you could pass recovery point pre wheeling inspection with that. Or probably any legit wheeling Parks inspection if they require them. Simplify it. I'm all for originality and don't conform to "catalog whoring" and buy as little as possible. I have a clean looking 70$ snorkel, 25$ legit towpoints,2$ homemade discos that don't rattle..etc.
so I understand the idea of doing new things but I also take constructive criticism and change my approach if a better idea comes along.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 04:28 PM   #49
Freestyle713
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^I will back him up, saying his tow points are legit.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 05:12 PM   #50
98318242
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Too bad you couldnt find a deal like I did, I got a set of factory tow hooks on ebay in excellent condition with everything needed even the bolts and nuts for like $45 shipped. It did take a looooong time to come across a deal like that though.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 05:49 PM   #51
biggoofy
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No way in hell I would run that you can copy the KOR one for like $50
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Unread 04-18-2012, 06:14 PM   #52
mudruna
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Not a bad job all in all, not the best but not the worst by a long shot. The staement about the welds is incorrect though, the metal should ALWAYS be prepped the best you can before welding, no matter what method you use, it is always better to weld directly to bare steel. As far as hooking a tow strap a simple shackle would make that connection which should be in everyones recovery kit already, not to mention a choker rig cuts a sling capacity almost in half where a straight rig to a shackle would not. I would agree that you need to make sure that you reenforce the subframe to make sure it can handle a good tug.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 06:20 PM   #53
mudruna
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<--- my recovery points aren't on in this pic but you can bet your *** that I have paid attention to everyone's post on here about how to do it right and mine are attached to 1/4" steel plate that runs inside of my subframe and are held on with 9/16" grade 8 hardware.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 08:21 PM   #54
alphazulu29
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
We have an awesome Guy in our club that is an engineer/fabrication dude. No way you could pass recovery point pre wheeling inspection with that. Or probably any legit wheeling Parks inspection if they require them. Simplify it. I'm all for originality and don't conform to "catalog whoring" and buy as little as possible. I have a clean looking 70$ snorkel, 25$ legit towpoints,2$ homemade discos that don't rattle..etc.
so I understand the idea of doing new things but I also take constructive criticism and change my approach if a better idea comes along.
Do you have a build thread on any of those mentioned? Interested in seeing your setup.

Thanks!
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Unread 04-18-2012, 09:20 PM   #55
ratmonkey
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Ever seen a tow hook or chain blow through a tail gate AND cab? I have, that's why we're hard on half baked fabrication of this kind.

Welding door knockers on like that is the last thing I'd do. Especially at that angle.
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Unread 04-18-2012, 10:58 PM   #56
rooster51
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Please stop sniveling and just take the above stated advise on how to properly modify your set up. No matter how many times you whine, its still a very bad set up. (BTW, punch your welder in the throat, Im a noob welder & can clearly see that he was drunk or high).
You can salvage this, just get back to work and dont settle.
You should post this same thread on MC or Pirate. Then tell us how we're big meanie heads for protecting the gene pool.
Now... stop feeling sorry for yourself, beef up your recovery points properly, and make your wheeling deadline.
We dont hate you, we're trying to save and help you, but your making it kinda difficult.
You have a good prototype, now make the necessary corrections.
Good luck.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 06:06 AM   #57
white_lexie
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I think all you need to do is put a plate on the inside of the frame to sandwich it and your good to go. I dont know why folks think these jeeps need to have 10,000lb rated tow points on these jeeps, heck most half ton trucks are rated for ten and so forth. Ill bet you cant yank that contraption off if you tried.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 06:53 AM   #58
WhiteOut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white_lexie
I think all you need to do is put a plate on the inside of the frame to sandwich it and your good to go. I dont know why folks think these jeeps need to have 10,000lb rated tow points on these jeeps, heck most half ton trucks are rated for ten and so forth. Ill bet you cant yank that contraption off if you tried.
The stock points are rated for 10k when used together. If people are bending them during recovery, what does that tell you? You can't just weigh a dry, stock ZJ and use that number to determine what is needed. With trail gear and full fluids, I'm probably pushing 5k. Then factor in the additional resistance of whatever you are stuck in, the force exerted by getting yanked out with a strap and the pull angle.
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Unread 04-19-2012, 07:19 AM   #59
speedbucket
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I don't have a build thread but I probably should start one.
F=M x V
Zj rolling 5mph=25k lbs of force. if he is snatching you then that load is transfered through that contraption welded to the rad support. And the door knockers as rat called them are shear bearing on only one weld if your pulling forward
if you want a crude look at physics^…there it is
And I've never seen someone pulled out with one snatch
So you can't be a one and done when your dealing with a snatch!<<good advice in all aspects
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Unread 04-19-2012, 08:14 AM   #60
white_lexie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
I don't have a build thread but I probably should start one.
F=M x V
Zj rolling 5mph=25k lbs of force. if he is snatching you then that load is transfered through that contraption welded to the rad support. And the door knockers as rat called them are shear bearing on only one weld if your pulling forward
if you want a crude look at physics^…there it is
And I've never seen someone pulled out with one snatch
So you can't be a one and done when your dealing with a snatch!<<good advice in all aspects
Of course when you are rolling the momentum will rise but 25K seems far stretched. If thats the case you would yank off any mount, towhook or anything that you put on there. There is no way that they little frame on a zj could handle 25k of anything.
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