My Front Recovery System(PICS) - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
xbeakerx
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My Front Recovery System(PICS)

I have been going around about how to do the front recovery system. Whether to use a D-Ring type setup or a Clevis or even mounting Tow hooks. It was driving me mad and every time I thought of something that might work it didn't.

I was over my fathers house last week and we got to talking about it and looking at the Jeep. He told me he had the perfect solution for the front. He pointed in the bushes next his garage and there was a old car hitch. I actually had to pull it out with the Jeep it was so overgrown(it was a part of a bush it had been in there so long). I put it up to the Radiator Support and it fit perfect. I called a friend that is a Master Welder and asked him if he would mate the hitch up to the front of my Jeep. This is the product of that collaboration.


First we cut out some brackets for the side and drilled the holes to make sure everything was lined up right.


Once that was done we needed to measure the space between and cut the Hitch.


Here is the Hitch


Here is the mock up before welding.(We also shorted the hitch so it wouldn't stick so far out.)


He also welded it to the Radiator Support for more strength. The Radiator Support is still removable even with the welds.














Here is the finished Product with D-rings installed


This picture has the Gussets installed


These were never for towing. These were installed by the previous owner to tie down his kayak on the roof.


Trail Proven

All this cost me:
$0 for the Car Hitch from my Dad
$25 to the welder and for the metal
$16 for the D-rings at Tractor Supply
$10 for the Spray Paint

Total Cost: $51


1998 ZJ Laredo(Gonzo) - Built Not Bought - 3.5" lift with IRO Long Arms, Cherry Bomb Exhaust, 31x10.50R15, CAI, Custom Front Recovery System & YJ Tube Bumper
1986 Toyota MR2 - Polyurethane Suspension Bushings,Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs,S/C Swap and more!
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post #2 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 02:11 PM
Foz2814
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K.I.S.S. at its finest
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post #3 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 02:16 PM
Bravoleader
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That looks good, free stuff is always the best. It will look a lot better when you get around to painting it.

94 Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2L V8, Auto, 201,000 Miles
Sony Xplod Deck, 30" Tires, Roof Basket, 2" IRO to be Installed.
Future Mods: 3" Exhaust, 3.5" Lift, Front and Rear Bumpers, a coating of mud!
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post #4 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
xbeakerx
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Thanks I worked really hard to get this done, It will also be tested this Weekend at Wheelin For Hope.

I will add the Painted version tomorrow to the original post.

1998 ZJ Laredo(Gonzo) - Built Not Bought - 3.5" lift with IRO Long Arms, Cherry Bomb Exhaust, 31x10.50R15, CAI, Custom Front Recovery System & YJ Tube Bumper
1986 Toyota MR2 - Polyurethane Suspension Bushings,Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs,S/C Swap and more!
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post #5 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 02:39 PM
speedbucket
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I would weld in gussets in a couple spots if I were you. I don't think a sideways tug would be friendly the way it is now

Edit: can you post a pic of where and what you attached to?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #6 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
xbeakerx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
I would weld in gussets in a couple spots if I were you. I don't think a sideways tug would be friendly the way it is now

Edit: can you post a pic of where and what you attached to?
New Pictures Added to original post.

1998 ZJ Laredo(Gonzo) - Built Not Bought - 3.5" lift with IRO Long Arms, Cherry Bomb Exhaust, 31x10.50R15, CAI, Custom Front Recovery System & YJ Tube Bumper
1986 Toyota MR2 - Polyurethane Suspension Bushings,Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs,S/C Swap and more!
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post #7 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 03:00 PM
WhiteOut
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Take that off, seriously. I can understand the reason behind you doing this but it is not the correct way to do it.

1. The trailer hitch is off a car, most likely it has a 2,000lb rating. Your Jeep weighs about 4,000 give or take. Add in the shock and stress that is associated with a recovery and you are WAY past the failure point.

2. Your method of attaching it to the Jeep is below even what the stock hooks use. I bet you did not put a plate on the insde of the frame rail and there are no bolts running up into the rail from the bottom.

3. The D-rings, there is no way to attach a strap to them.

4. It doesn't look like the material was cleaned before welding, an apprentice welder would know to do this.
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post #8 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 06:09 PM
hubbmatt
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Actually, it looks pretty good. Looks like the welder reinforced the welds by running new beads. And he can just run the strap through the d-ring and then back through its own hoop (called a choker). I hope your not gonna use those eye hooks for towing though, those won't stand a chance to anything...
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post #9 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 06:19 PM
samsonitesamson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
Take that off, seriously. I can understand the reason behind you doing this but it is not the correct way to do it.

1. The trailer hitch is off a car, most likely it has a 2,000lb rating. Your Jeep weighs about 4,000 give or take. Add in the shock and stress that is associated with a recovery and you are WAY past the failure point.

2. Your method of attaching it to the Jeep is below even what the stock hooks use. I bet you did not put a plate on the insde of the frame rail and there are no bolts running up into the rail from the bottom.

3. The D-rings, there is no way to attach a strap to them.

4. It doesn't look like the material was cleaned before welding, an apprentice welder would know to do this.

Well said.

When thou walkest through the fire, thou shalt not be burned; neither shall the flame kindle upon thee ~ Isaiah 43:2 ~



Quote:
Originally Posted by Bnabb View Post
it bolted right up, except one bolt but i didn't need it anyway
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post #10 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 06:23 PM
WVHillbilly1
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It's crude, a little paint would do wonders. I'm sure it will work just fine unless you get buried half way up your doors.
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post #11 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 06:33 PM
cootertwo
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Hey, it's better than what he had before. Geeeeze picky picky. If/when it rips off, he'll know the weak spots and can re-engineer.
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post #12 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 06:38 PM
hubbmatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cootertwo
Hey, it's better than what he had before. Geeeeze picky picky. If/when it rips off, he'll know the weak spots and can re-engineer.
x2

Everyone takes a risk with custom fabrication. If the welder was a professional then he knew what he was doing. And if it fails he'll be prepared for round 2.
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post #13 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 07:51 PM
AlphaLorde
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Who ever would hook up to that is mighty brave. I wouldn't risk whatever hunk of metal that would break off flying at my truck or family. To each there own.

1998 ZJ Laredo 5.2L 139k 231 w/SYE artec trussed 8.8 4.25"F/5"R lift
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post #14 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
xbeakerx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
Take that off, seriously. I can understand the reason behind you doing this but it is not the correct way to do it.

1. The trailer hitch is off a car, most likely it has a 2,000lb rating. Your Jeep weighs about 4,000 give or take. Add in the shock and stress that is associated with a recovery and you are WAY past the failure point.

2. Your method of attaching it to the Jeep is below even what the stock hooks use. I bet you did not put a plate on the insde of the frame rail and there are no bolts running up into the rail from the bottom.

3. The D-rings, there is no way to attach a strap to them.

4. It doesn't look like the material was cleaned before welding, an apprentice welder would know to do this.
Why is it that just about everyone on this forum bashes anything that isn't the norm(ei. factory tow hooks or Kevin's) and feels like that they have to be a downer and not a contributor when it comes to something new. I made this to make an alternative to those that can't afford $150+ or have to fight someone to get the factory tow hooks in the junkyard. Yes, its a little crude in some places but isn't that how every great invention starts out. You are nothing but a nuisance to this forum.

1. Yes it "HAD" a rating of 2000lbs max before it got cut it up, shortened the receiver and welded it to the Radiator Support. I have no idea what the max is now but I'm sure it is what the ZJ weighs.

2. How is it lower that what The factory hooks attach. Being that the whole thing is welded to the RS and bolted up to the vehicle in all the same places as the factory does. I would say its better than the factory tow hooks which was my goal. I didn't remove the bolts in the Radiator Support, I only had it welded it to it. Which means if i have to take it off then I just remove the RS and the 8 bolts and its off.

3. I will be using the method of "choking" with a strap, are you familiar with this method? If not, you must be new to offroading. The Eye hooks were from the previous owner and I just haven't taken the time to remove them.

4. He used a ARC welder which if you knew anything about welding you would know that it is a higher temperature welder which breaks through rust and paint. We did clean most of the spots he welded but I'm sure I missed some spots but was told that it would be ok. The man has been welding his entire life and just about everyone in the area goes to him. Show some respect.

I'm done with my rant and I might be done with this forum if this type of attitude continues.

1998 ZJ Laredo(Gonzo) - Built Not Bought - 3.5" lift with IRO Long Arms, Cherry Bomb Exhaust, 31x10.50R15, CAI, Custom Front Recovery System & YJ Tube Bumper
1986 Toyota MR2 - Polyurethane Suspension Bushings,Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs,S/C Swap and more!
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post #15 of 152 Old 04-16-2012, 09:37 PM
gabrod72
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I'm not going to knock your attempt at a recovery point for the front, and I think your D rings will probably hold. As suggested, you need to look into a way to put a metal plate with nuts welded onto them to reinforce the mounts if you haven't done so already. The only thing I'd improve on it is to cut off or severely shorten the center ball mount. My reason behind this is you're killing your approach angle and it will get hung up on things.
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