To my fellow ZJ owners. IMPORTANT -
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post #1 of 2 Old 09-07-2013, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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1993 ZJ 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Newark
Posts: 173
To my fellow ZJ owners. IMPORTANT

OK guys, this may seem a little long, but I'll tell you about three things that might save you a head ache, so please read.

Lately, I've been noticing some slow crank- noise some times when starting. Yesterday, my starter got stuck, far from home, and you know, go down there and slightly tap on it with a hammer: Started. So I thought it was a bad starter ( I replaced it about a year ago for the same reason), It was on warranty, so I went to the store and got a new one, but always thinking that there had to be something else, you guessed, I thought that it might be the fly wheel( but thank God it was not. So today, I removed it and found out that the UPPER bolt, yes, that one right next to the solenoid was TOO SHORT; it was threaded only about 7MM into the starter, causing the thread to reap away.
The bell housing hole is about 15MM wide and the starter hole is about 15MM deep.( I used a digital dial that is very handy). The reason I'm posting this is because I don't know if they come like that or if the previous owner did it so,,I went to a hardware store and got a 10 X 1.50 bolt (the thread ALONE is about 30 MM long, and I added a lock washer. Problem solved.

#2 Grease-oil all over the starter and in all that area.

I remembered that I did the same thing to my previous 1987 Cherokee Pioneer.(4.0) I know, you don't see them around too often, that was a rock) so,,,the oil filter ADAPTER (where you screw the filter to), Leaks between it self and the engine block. It has an O-ring that hardens with the heat and cracks.Here is how I did it: I used a 14MM Allen wrench ( L shape hexagon) to remove the bolt that holds it against the block, that is a little uncomfortable since that bolt, which is a thru-bolt so the oil can pass, has also TWO O-rings, which get hard with the heat too, so you have to play, rotating the adapter and the hex key in opposite directions to get it out. Got it out and the rest is easy. I went to Auto Zone and they have a set of O-Rings ( Part # : 82560), for $8.99. Pushed the bolt out of the adapter, it was dirty, not plugged, but really dirty, immersed all and cleaned with diesel fuel and a brush, dried with brake cleaner spray. Put the two new O-rings on the bolt and added a few drops of clean oil to the O-rings only, inserted the bolt back into the adapter, now, I can rotate the bolt easily. The big O-Ring: Before I put it, I applied a thin line of blue silicon (permatex) in the groove, when you put the O-ring on it, the silicone will "wrap" around it, I let it dry a little while I was doing what follows (#3), mounted really easy, tighten.. Even the oil pressure reads a little higher and the gauge needle moves like easier. I know it will last a long time.

And #3: One of the bolts that hold the stabilizer bar broke inside the frame. I drilled, but the extractor didn't work. It was really rusted, took it to a shop to weld a bolt to it, but it was broken to dip so,,,I got a Deburr tool, 1/4 diam. X 2" long. I deburred in the hole I had already made, carefully trying not to damage the thread on the nut. When it was thin enough, I took out with a punch and hammer. I cleaned the thread with a 10 X 1.50 TAP and I put all four new bolts, but this time, I added anti seize grease.

Well guys, I hope this helps. Good thing this happened now and no in the middle of winter, which is, believe it or not, around the corner.

Last edited by Raimundo; 09-07-2013 at 11:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #2 of 2 Old 09-08-2013, 12:10 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville
Posts: 549
thanks, always good to know

1979 CJ5 Hardtop - I6 W/Howell Fuel Injection 4-SPD, 33's, Winch, Racks & The Basics!
Dukcaln is offline  

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