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Engo LED Flush Mount Lights *PAIR* Flood or Spot 1,600 LumYukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon ZipRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits

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Unread 06-30-2013, 08:09 AM   #31
coralman
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I did the vacumn cleaner idea like Candyman. I was scared to use any solvent with an electrical device but i did use a set of dental tools, small acrewdrivers, to break it up. It was already hard baked on mine and would have needed a tanker truck to flush it off. I had bought a little wet dry for $20 at home depot on sale. I have put that thing through its paces and it still works.

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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:16 AM   #32
AaronButler
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Next time you do an oil change, try to use strawberry Jelly instead of grape.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:17 AM   #33
JBrady5555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Whatever you do while you have it apart, run the diesel oil in it and use FL-1A oil filter because it has more capacity. Change filter after couple hundred miles. Change to more diesel oil after 500 miles.

You can monitor progress by cutting filters open to see what's in there.

When you get it all back together, make sure the crankcase vent is working. At idle, you should feel the vacuum on the front tube at the air breather.
Would Rotella TDT be ok for the diesel oil? I already use FL-1a filters.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 12:04 PM   #34
JBrady5555
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Well just got back from walmart. I bought a 1 1/2 gallon small shop vac, a double roll of shop towels, and 3 cans of brakleen. Fixing to go see what I can do with it after the Rays game and the nascar race of course, lol.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:07 PM   #35
kens97sto171
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As a flush alternative you can run 3qrts of ATF one quart of a thicker oil. New filter and let it idle.. for 30 min to an hour.
ATF has great cleaning abilities.

You could do this multiple times until the draining fluid looks like clean ATF .

Then I would do another oil change cheap oil just to flush it all out. Or you might not.

Running it with 1 qrt of ATF and the rest regular oil .. would work well as a long term flush.

I have had great success with this method cleaning up internal engine parts. Stuck lifters. Or lifters that are not inflating correctly. It may or may not dissolve the sludge that's stuck to parts that are just splashed with oil. That buildup happens over time. manually cleaning that is the best way to clean it.. but its a pain. And there is some risk of the dislodged crap causing issues.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:56 PM   #36
JBrady5555
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Well I started cleaning today. Here is a few pics, I know it still looks bad but that is about as good as I could get with brakleen and screw driver and a shop vac.






Tomorrow I'm gonna pull the rocker arms one at a time and give them a wire brush diesel fuel bath. Plus that will allow me to clean the head better. I'm gonna pull them one cylinder at a time so that I don't mix everything up. Plus I can just leave the push rods in their respective hole and clean them one at a time.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 07:44 PM   #37
HandsOn
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That's a great idea. It'll take a little longer, sure. But at this point, a little extra time spent now for the knowledge you have cleaned it as good as you can, without mixing any parts up, is time well spent.

Paul
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Unread 06-30-2013, 08:00 PM   #38
ZeeJay1997
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I'm cleaning my upper valve train vicariously though jeep Forum.
I was following the book for the job you are doing and found this.

ROCKER ARMS AND PUSH RODS
CLEANING
Clean all the components with cleaning solvent.
Use compressed air to blow out the oil passages in
the rocker arms and push rods.
INSPECTION
Inspect the pivot surface area of each rocker arm.
Replace any that are scuffed, pitted, cracked or
excessively worn.
Inspect the valve stem tip contact surface of each
rocker arm and replace any rocker arm that is deeply
pitted.
Inspect each push rod end for excessive wear and
replace as required. If any push rod is excessively
worn because of lack of oil, replace it and inspect the
corresponding hydraulic tappet for excessive wear.
Inspect the push rods for straightness by rolling
them on a flat surface or by shining a light between
the push rod and the flat surface.
A wear pattern along the length of the push rod is
not normal. Inspect the engine cylinder head for
obstruction if this condition exists.

Rocker Arm Assembly-to-Cylinder Head
Capscrews. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Nm (21ft. lbs.)
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Unread 06-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #39
um7267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
I did the vacumn cleaner idea like Candyman. I was scared to use any solvent with an electrical device but i did use a set of dental tools, small acrewdrivers, to break it up. It was already hard baked on mine and would have needed a tanker truck to flush it off. I had bought a little wet dry for $20 at home depot on sale. I have put that thing through its paces and it still works.
if you're changing the oil you could always use a toothbrush and throttle body cleaner, after your done letting the oil drain pour some 5w-30 over the gunk-less parts to make sure it is lubricated(and to get the cleaner out), fill with oil and attach filter. or

i back seafoam 100% or stp motor treatment, on the back of the stp it says how to do a crankcase flush 1 entire can in the oil for 15 minutes run and change as normal.

after either you will feel like its a whole different engine i try to do a flush twice a year spring and fall

as far as leaks, i hate seeing leaks, but which is worst a hidden problem or a known one?
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Unread 06-30-2013, 10:54 PM   #40
eagsc7
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Watching TV, and just had a thought. Use Dawn. It's good at cutting oil and grease, but nice enough to use on sensitive animals...

LOL!
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:25 PM   #41
LoveHate
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I know someone who used dawn in his 4 banger and it suds up pretty bad lol. cleaned the engine ok but what a mess.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 11:44 PM   #42
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveHate View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagsc7 View Post
Watching TV, and just had a thought. Use Dawn. It's good at cutting oil and grease, but nice enough to use on sensitive animals...

LOL!
I know someone who used dawn in his 4 banger and it suds up pretty bad lol. cleaned the engine ok but what a mess.
OMG! I wasn't being serious, But was it Strait Soap, or with a bit of water, or saline, or alcohol, or....
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Unread 07-01-2013, 01:01 AM   #43
Candymancan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBrady5555 View Post
Well I started cleaning today. Here is a few pics, I know it still looks bad but that is about as good as I could get with brakleen and screw driver and a shop vac.






Tomorrow I'm gonna pull the rocker arms one at a time and give them a wire brush diesel fuel bath. Plus that will allow me to clean the head better. I'm gonna pull them one cylinder at a time so that I don't mix everything up. Plus I can just leave the push rods in their respective hole and clean them one at a time.


Wont the pushrods fall in the holes if you take the rocker arms off ? Or wont the valves fall into the head if you don't use any air pressure in the spark plug hole to keep them in there.. be careful dude. It does look a lot better then it did though. You should really drop that oil pan next because I garuntee you that pan is full of muck.. and I bet that oil pump is having a hard time pumping.

Btw after you are done.. I would take a quart or two of oil and pour it all over the rockers and stuff to get it evenly spread out to lube it all back up before you put the cover on and fill it up all the way and start it
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Unread 07-01-2013, 05:50 AM   #44
zj97ltd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
Wont the pushrods fall in the holes if you take the rocker arms off ? Or wont the valves fall into the head if you don't use any air pressure in the spark plug hole to keep them in there.. be careful dude. It does look a lot better then it did though. You should really drop that oil pan next because I garuntee you that pan is full of muck.. and I bet that oil pump is having a hard time pumping.

Btw after you are done.. I would take a quart or two of oil and pour it all over the rockers and stuff to get it evenly spread out to lube it all back up before you put the cover on and fill it up all the way and start it
The lifters are keeping the pushrods where they are, and the springs and retainers are keeping the valves up. I'd take the pushrods out if you're going to take off the arms. Number them so they go back exactly where they came from though.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 10:41 AM   #45
LoveHate
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Originally Posted by eagsc7 View Post

OMG! I wasn't being serious, But was it Strait Soap, or with a bit of water, or saline, or alcohol, or....
Straight soap mixed in the oil. Used a full big bottle. I wouldn't recommend it lol.
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