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Unread 08-16-2013, 11:33 AM   #1
zjosh93
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MOPAR battery terminals

coralman posted this link in another thread:

http://connectors.dcctools.com/splic...B6A5DD8B6F7F75

I noticed under the "repair parts" link, at the bottom of the page, they list Chrysler battery terminals with part numbers. A quick google shows that you can find them at the online Chrysler parts houses for under $15. That's pretty steep for a terminal but worth it if it's good quality and gets us away from cheap universal stuff at the parts store.

Anyone ever seen one of these? I couldn't find any pictures. Are they lead? How do they attach?

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Unread 08-16-2013, 12:18 PM   #2
JeepNicholson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
coralman posted this link in another thread:

http://connectors.dcctools.com/splic...B6A5DD8B6F7F75

I noticed under the "repair parts" link, at the bottom of the page, they list Chrysler battery terminals with part numbers. A quick google shows that you can find them at the online Chrysler parts houses for under $15. That's pretty steep for a terminal but worth it if it's good quality and gets us away from cheap universal stuff at the parts store.

Anyone ever seen one of these? I couldn't find any pictures. Are they lead? How do they attach?
I had read this thread some time ago

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/o...ables-1553141/

And opted to order some military battery terminals and some 3/8" copper lugs for the cable ends. Sometimes they're called ordnance terminals too.

ZJ FSM
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...Fk&usp=sharing
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Unread 08-16-2013, 01:18 PM   #3
zjosh93
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Ha! I posted in that thread but I usually can't see pictures at work. Those do look nice.
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Unread 08-16-2013, 04:21 PM   #4
coralman
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My original reason for searching for a alternative to the OE cable end was i fool with the jeep doing this and that just about every weekend. About a third of that fooling,lol, always ends up with me removing the negative cable. At first, I was just going to install a disconnect but space was so limited I nixed that. I looked at various ends, including the military style, but I wanted a larger "pad" for the cables to mount to. What I settled on was late model Wrangler battery cable ends.

cable-ends-001.jpg


Seem really strong, only odd thing was they don't come with nuts. So I have to find some. Right now I'm trying to decide what type of lugs to use on the cables themselves. Since there are 4 cables I will need 4 lugs. They vary from a standard copper lug to some pretty heavy duty tinned lugs. Some are non rotational that lock in place with little ridges. Whatever lug I end up using I will seal the lug to wire point with mil spec adhesive lined heat shrink.



Leaning towards a crimp and solder connection at that point using solder pellets. Anyways, then I can just remove the cables instead of screwing up the ends.Will do a writeup when I get all in place.
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Unread 08-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #5
JeepNicholson
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I literally just got finished doing my cable ends. I'm pretty happy with the Quick Cable Fusion heavy duty lugs I ordered (zinc plated copper), they installed a lot more easily then I expected.
Just cut off 7/8" of the insulation, stick the cable end in the lug, and hit it with a torch for about 8 seconds until the flux bubbled, pushed it the rest of the way in, let it cool, and done! (Also remembered to put my shrink tubing on the cable first lol)

And holy crap, my Jeep never started so fast!
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Unread 08-19-2013, 12:25 PM   #6
coralman
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Those looked really good. Using the same method.
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Unread 08-20-2013, 04:59 AM   #7
ZeeJay1997
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yeah those are the ticket and not so pricey. thanks for sharing Nich
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Unread 08-20-2013, 04:03 PM   #8
coralman
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I measured the outside diameter of #4 cable and doubled it and ordered some 1/0 ends . I will be using solder pellets when the stuff shows up. Two #4 in each end. Then I won't have as much bulk on the battery terminal. The battery ends themselves are pretty stout even though they don't look like it. The chrysler splices are mainly for repair work or tapping into circuits. I like the looks of them beacuse even with heatshrink the bulkiness is less {way less} than regular butt connectors. A trick to keep solder from wicking up a wire too far is graphite. Solder won't go past it.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 09:15 AM   #9
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Done
battery1.jpg battery-002.jpg battery-003.jpg
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Unread 08-24-2013, 09:20 AM   #10
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coralman View Post
Done
i dont get out much but i've never ran across a battery with extra posts. nice looking set up though.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 09:31 AM   #11
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Thanks Zee! Its a marine diehard, thats why I bought it. So far its been a good battery. Made by the same company who makes oddessy batteries I think.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 09:44 AM   #12
ZeeJay1997
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dang i'm getting old... havent been around a boat in 30 years... makes me wanna go fishin
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Unread 08-24-2013, 10:59 AM   #13
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I know I am. New company took over the show at work and they are running me ragged. Redfish are running at sikes bridge and I just don't have the ooomph to get up and go. In my younger days that was all that mattered to me was fishing. I'd do running shifts,lol. Go to work at 2pm, get off at 10pm, drive straight to the bridge, fish till 6am, go home,sleep,go to work and do the same thing over again. Now, a whole different story. Of course the last time I tried to go I got a jeep with the fender trashed.
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Unread 09-20-2013, 09:09 PM   #14
zjosh93
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Those look really good coralman! Just saw the negative terminal in your trans mount write up and it reminded me that you were talking about them in this thread. I must have missed the notification because I never saw your final few posts. I assume you went with the Quick Cable Fusion lugs that JeepNicholson was talking about? Where did you buy the lugs?
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Unread 09-21-2013, 03:50 AM   #15
coralman
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Ebay on all of it except the battery terminals and some of the lugs. Waytek on some of the lugs. I just used standard lugs with lead pellets and a drop of flux. I had to modify the lug by cutting a small slot in the end opposite the eye. The slot locks the lug to terminal so it won't spin while tightening. I later added some small silicone boots to the nut area so when I remove the cable I just twist the boot upside down and it isolates the cable.
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