New here and searched the forum on GC stalling. Mine has started to do this also and was wondering if there is a consensus on what the problem might be. It seems many have had problems with the idle air control value and others have had problems with fuel pumps. Also there seems to be some controversy about the fuel tank having a liner and delaminating.
Hereís my situation. Original owner, 96, 2WD GC, 4.0L engine, 105k miles, last plug change was at 100k miles, cap and rotor at 65K miles, original plug wires. No check engine light on. It starts okay then either stalls about 5-10 seconds afterwards or it starts, I drive it down the street and then it stalls. Some times the stalling is quick, like the ignition was shut off, other times itís a slower choking stall. Doesnít always do this, maybe 1 in 10 starts.
Iím thinking the idle air control valve might be my first try. Any other opinions?
did I read this right? you say 105k and original plug wires? I'd start there. The 4.0L is also known for the crank position sensor flaking out, very frustrating. There is also a camshaft position sensor on the distributor. But either of these, you'd be throwing some codes I would think.
Interloper is on the right track. Check ALL the electrical components on the engine. It may not be just one but a combination.
00 4.7 Laredo...KYB gas shocks, ADDCO rear sway bar and Firestone Destination tires.
08 Z71 Suburban, front leveling kit with rear spacers. 285/65 18s Nitto TerraGrappler G2s
94 5.9 Laredo 6.5 RE lift with 35 Maxxis Bighorns
and 33 Bridgestone Duelers
Detroit and true trac
Red Jeep Club Member
Texas Jeep Owner #6
USN Jeep Club #4 http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/
Thanks for the reply guys. It's true, I've got 105K miles on this GC with almost everything original. Of course it's had plenty of regular maintenance by yours truly. Arizona is pretty kind to stuff under the hood. Here's some pics of the engine;
I was having the same problem about a month ago. it would Idle then die. It did die on the road once when my wife was driving, I tried to blame her but it wouldnt work.
I have only done the following items and have not had the problem since. My problem may be related to cold weather. its been warm since it last happened, but I assume AZ wouldnt have too many cold days.
- Cleaned throttle body
- Examined Air Filter
- Oil Change
- Added fuel addiditve (I wanted to add this, because it has been sitting on the lot for about a month when I bought it).
Originally posted by Trevor96 I must concur with the previous post. I had the same issue (tried to blame it on the wife as well ) and ended up doing the same:
Cleaned throttle body (it was pretty dirty)
Replaced IACV ($40 at Pep Boys)
Haven't had the issues since. I'm very confident that was the problem. I attribute it to excessive oil on my K&N air filter. Be careful when you re-charge them!
One more note, take the above for what it's worth....I've got a '96 5.2L V8. I'm not sure if the same will hold true for your 4.0L
This is interesting. My wife has a 92 Nissan Maxima that has the same type of stalling problem. It also has a K&N filter. I wonder if it could be the same thing? The dealer can't find a thing wrong with it, no codes or anything.
Her car will stall out only very occasionally, sometimes months pass, and more often in warmer weather. Was your problem similair to that?
2003 Grand Cherokee Overland
Let me shed some light on this problem. It is very important to carbon clean these 4.0's and 5.2's. Go to your local chrysler dealer and get you a can of combustion chamber cleaner. This is the best stuff hands down. Just follow the directions. And also if you have a week battery this will cause stalling on chrysler products. A good way to tell is if the VIC is flashing after you get it running then the battery is low and you need to replace the battery. I see this more in my dealership than IAC motors going bad.
Since I started this thread things have gotten worse. The GC now dies just about anytime. Most of the time it runs fine but some times dies after starting then also cuts out while driving. This weekend I took the throttle body off, cleaned it real good and replaced the IACV just for good measure. After this I still had the problem so I moved on to other electrical stuff. Last night I replaced the camshaft sensor and was going to replace the crank shaft sensor as well but the parts guy gave me the wrong one. In the meantime I decided to start checking other wiring while the engine was running and found a VERY sensitive spot at the Powertrain Control Module. Wiggling any of the 32 pin connectors would cause the vehicle to do all kinds of misfiring and dieing. I removed the connectors and inspected them for pushed back pins and damaged wires. All looked good. It got ugly at this point as I removed the PCM to see if the internal connectors had cracked solder joints on the printed wiring board but the unit is potted in some type of material similar to RTV. I could not remove the lower cover on it either as it is attached to the electronics before potting. Iíd post pics but Iím upgrading my home computer and it wont be up for a day or so.
So, now I have to dig into the connectors and make sure all is well there before going on a salvage yard hunt for another PCM.
IMHO: Chrysler electrical design SUCKS! Mechanically all the pins and jacks they use in their connectors are too small for automotive applications. Also mounting the PCM in the engine compartment isnít the best environment for sensitive electronics.
automan, you just spray the cleaner inside throttle body while it is running until can is empty. Then let it sit about 30 minutes, then drive it out. Do not run fuel additives. Additives are kinda like slick 50 and other stuff that really does not do any good. Today's gas is clean enough that additives dont help. I had a liberty 3 weeks ago was skipping and the compression was down on cyl 2. Pulled the head off and removed the valve and found carbon buil up on intake valve causing it to burn. Customer stated that he run fuel additive every other tank. So this proved that aditives may do more harm than good. of course this was warranty
Well its back together again and running. I can't duplicate the problem any more but I really didn't find anything concrete wrong? Here's what I did;
1. Removed the strain relief covers from the PCM connectors and wiggled all the wires.
2. Pried on the cover of the PCM to try and open it but there appeared to be electronics attached to the cover so I stopped this action before I ruined it.
My guess is one of two things happened. Either a jack in one of the connectors was backing out and removing the strain relief cover allowed it to return to its normal position...or...
prying on the cover of the PCM managed to reconnect a bad solder joint.
Some how I think I haven't seen the last of this problem