Lug nut torque Spec for a 98 5.9 Limited - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
jenniferny
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Lug nut torque Spec for a 98 5.9 Limited

I tried to search for this, but could not find it, so if it is already here would someone let me know where it is?

The front brakes on my 5.9 Limited are as thin as paper so I ordered a set of EBC Yellowstuff pads and a new set of Centric Premium rotors as recommended by people on Jeep Forum.

I went to take the wheel off today and I could not loosen the lug nuts, even with a long handle 1/2" Snap On Breaker Bar, so I got out my Snap On TQFR250 Torque Wrench. I started at 75 ft lbs and got a click and no movement, I went to 100 and it clicked again. next I went to 150 ft lbs and it still clicked with no movement. I can not believe that the tire store put my wheels on with OVER 150 ft lbs of torque. I am not strong enough to go any higher than 150 ft lbs so I had to stop without knowing what the actual torque is.

Does anyone know what the correct torque spec for the lug nuts on my 5.9 Limited is???? I am going there tomorrow and have them loosen my lug nuts and torque them tighten them with a torque wrench at the correct spec.

Has anyone else had a shop put on their lug nuts this tight?

Thank You for your help!! I do not know what I would do without this forum!!!


Jennifer

Last edited by jenniferny; 08-03-2011 at 06:16 PM. Reason: add information
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post #2 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 06:46 PM
CrazyMacaw
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Haynes Manual calls for 80-110 Ft-lbs.
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post #3 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
jenniferny
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Originally Posted by CrazyMacaw View Post
Haynes Manual calls for 80-110 Ft-lbs.
Thank You!!

Jennifer
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post #4 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 07:37 PM
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And just because it took 150+ lbs to get them off does not necessarily mean that is how much was used when putting them on. For example, corrosion creeping into the threads and so forth.

Having said that, you are probably right, some bozo with an impact gun hammered them on there.
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post #5 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:21 PM
Candymancan
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Yea I have, i went to get my 5.9 inspected for the yearly state saftey inspection and the mechanic first jacked my jeep up on the control arm mount on the axle, then he took my passenger wheel off to inspect the brake's and when he put it back on he just tightend it with his impact gun using a standard socket, and not a 80-100lbs torque socket.

That and he bent my control arm mount. So its in the dealership getting repaired. Im going to take the lug nuts off and retighten them the proper way

2013 6.2 V8 Camaro SS 30k
98 5.9 V8 ZJ 180k
98 4.0 I6 ZJ 240k
90 5.9 SJ Grand Wagoneer 110k
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post #6 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:32 PM
perfeng702
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you shouldn't be using your torque wrench to loosen bolts... that is a good way to break it. they go in reverse for reverse threaded fasteners... not for breaking things loose. but since you stopped when it clicked, you're probably ok. just fyi.
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post #7 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:35 PM
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I recently had my tires on and off a few times, and I always use a torque wrench. I put them on, and then about a week later went to take them off at my buddies house to put my new tires on and we couldn't get a single one off easily. Ripped 5 lug nuts apart across all four wheels (the lug nuts are two piece), and had a hell of a time.

Ended up finding out that the chamfer at the end of the lug nuts seized to the aluminum wheels. I hit them real quick with the bench belt sander (just the angle on the end of the lugs) until they were shiny and hit them with a light coat of never seize. That was about a month ago, and I've tried a few times since to see if they stuck again and they haven't given me any problems since.

Only advice I can give you is give them a little pb blaster, and an expensive impact and hope you don't rip the lugs in two.

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #8 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
And just because it took 150+ lbs to get them off does not necessarily mean that is how much was used when putting them on. For example, corrosion creeping into the threads and so forth.

Having said that, you are probably right, some bozo with an impact gun hammered them on there.
It did not take the 150 lbs to get them off, and there is no corrosion. When I had the tires rotated just a couple months ago they sprayed Thrust on the studs to prevent rust and corrosion before he put the lug nuts on and tightened them. Also, I did not try and remove them when I got the 150 ft lb reading. I put my torque wrench on the lug nut and tried to tighten it at 75 then 100, and finally 150 ft lbs and even at the 150 ft lb setting the lug nut did not move. I did that to see what the torque was at so I knew what they had been tightened to.

Jennifer
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post #9 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perfeng702 View Post
you shouldn't be using your torque wrench to loosen bolts... that is a good way to break it. they go in reverse for reverse threaded fasteners... not for breaking things loose. but since you stopped when it clicked, you're probably ok. just fyi.
I know that, which is why I tried to tighten them at each torque setting on my torque wrench so I could see at what point they would tighten so I would know how much they had been torqued to when they were put on and even at the 150 ft lb setting they would not budge.

Jennifer
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post #10 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
I recently had my tires on and off a few times, and I always use a torque wrench. I put them on, and then about a week later went to take them off at my buddies house to put my new tires on and we couldn't get a single one off easily. Ripped 5 lug nuts apart across all four wheels (the lug nuts are two piece), and had a hell of a time.

Ended up finding out that the chamfer at the end of the lug nuts seized to the aluminum wheels. I hit them real quick with the bench belt sander (just the angle on the end of the lugs) until they were shiny and hit them with a light coat of never seize. That was about a month ago, and I've tried a few times since to see if they stuck again and they haven't given me any problems since.

Only advice I can give you is give them a little pb blaster, and an expensive impact and hope you don't rip the lugs in two.
My 5.9 has all McGard Lug Nuts on it, I took the factory lug nuts off it the first week that I had the jeep because of the issue you mentioned that I had in the past with one of the Grand Cherokee's that I owned. McGard uses a high quality steel with a good chrome plating and have never had a problem since switching to the McGards.

Jennifer
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post #11 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 09:27 PM
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110ftlbs dry, 78-84 with antiseze.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #12 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 09:30 PM
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It will always take more torque to remove the lugs . The taper is designed to kinda , dig into the wheel , it distorts the alum/steel to the direction the lug goes tightening it up . Therefore , making it lock into position until forced off . Over torquing will show extra wear on the rim holes , I've seen some pretty gouged holes before .
FSM says 85-115 . Personally , I go 115
Always retorque after 1-200 miles
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post #13 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
110ftlbs dry, 78-84 with antiseze.
Really? Youd think it would take more toque with anti seize.
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post #14 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 10:14 PM
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Torque is a measurement of friction between the fastener and the piece you're clamping. Antiseze and oil lower the friction for the same clamping force.hd

Even torque application is more important than hitting the upper end of the range.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #15 of 24 Old 08-03-2011, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rooster51 View Post
Really? Youd think it would take more toque with anti seize.
NO. The whole point of anti-seez is to reduce friction which in turns allows you to stretch the stud the proper amount with LESS torque.
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