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Unread 05-14-2007, 07:07 PM   #1
ktmjeepguy
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Lowest steel line on frame rail, very rusty, brake line?

I have a very rust line on the drivers side frame rail. It is the lowest (bottom) of the three lines run down the drivers side frame rail. I traced the line, and it appears to be the brake line feed for the rear calipers, but the dealer sold me the wrong line when I requested a brake line for the rear. In other words, it doesn't match the line on the jeep now. The part # for the one they sold me is:52128305AA

So, I am thinking that maybe the line that is rusted is not the brake line. The top two appear to be stainless, as the are still silver in appearence. Can anyone tell me if the bottom line on the frame rail is the brake line?


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Unread 05-15-2007, 05:52 AM   #2
1BADDROP
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Grab a picture when you get a chance that will prob. help!!
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Unread 10-02-2011, 09:38 AM   #3
noodles5124
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Yes it is a brake line it connects the the real caliper hose mine is rotted through I need to replace it but does anyone know the diameter I'm gonna have to bend and flare a new line but don't want to **** it up with the wrong size
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Unread 10-02-2011, 09:44 AM   #4
Foundrydude
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You don't need a dealer, go to napa and ask for hand-bendable line. It costs a couple bucks more but you won't need a bending tool to prevent kinking. Remove yours to identify the ends and buy a line with the same ends. Then hold them next to each other and start working the straight one til it matches the original.

If you take it to a shop they're not gonna buy a dealer line. They're gonna bend one and save $50. good luck
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Unread 10-02-2011, 09:58 AM   #5
MAUSS
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I bend my tubing myself with a $6 tool from Harbor Freight:



Just line the new tube up with the original and match the bends. Go slightly longer on the new line with pre-flared ends and do a couple of S bends where they're out of the way to fine tune the length.
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Unread 10-05-2011, 07:10 AM   #6
9496ZJs
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3/16 line. The fitting near the back end is called 3/8 ,-24.

3/16 is the diameter of the line. The 3/8 fitting tells you to buy
a 3/8 flare wrench to crank the fittting on or off the junction or caliper. Go spend a few minutes examining brake line at your favorite auto parts store. As mentioned above you will find a rack that has some pre formed lines with the ends already double-flared, and fittings already put on for you. If you decide you want to custom cut your own lines, there are lots of youtube videos that show how to double flare a line with a flaring tool.

that line burst while my daughter was driving. I took it to t local indy service station charged $200 dollars to replace that line on the '94. actual cost of material is only about 10 dollars. Now I own a flaring tool a coil of line, dozens of fittings, and bending tool to do my own.
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Unread 10-05-2011, 11:20 AM   #7
jeepmanzj1955
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rusty brake line

If it's the one to the back wheels ,it's 3/16 on the end at the rear with a standard flaired end,but at the front it's 4.75 metric and a bubble flair.
Just replaced mine last Sat.
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Unread 10-05-2011, 11:24 AM   #8
Technohead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmanzj1955 View Post
If it's the one to the back wheels ,it's 3/16 on the end at the rear with a standard flaired end,but at the front it's 4.75 metric and a bubble flair.
Just replaced mine last Sat.
What do you mean by "standard" flare? Brake lines require double flares.
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Unread 10-05-2011, 11:43 AM   #9
9496ZJs
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jeepmanzj1955:


Thanks. What is a 4.75 metric fitting for the front? Does that define the dimensions?
Example of an adapter I found (and am not sure if it will fit): M11 x 1.5 on the male bubble end that screws into the ABS pump outlet , and then it accepts a 3/8 - 24 double flared 3/16 line on the female end. There's also an M10x1.0 metric adapter fitting, and others.

I hope to pick up a "4.75 metric", if you can explain it, at AutoZone BEFORE I get back under the car to finish off this job Saturday.

I presume you also meant to say the rear axle end of the car accepts the 3/16 diameter tubing with standard "Double Flare" and the 3/8 -24pitch fitting.

Last edited by 9496ZJs; 10-05-2011 at 11:53 AM..
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Unread 10-06-2011, 05:38 AM   #10
jeepmanzj1955
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rusty line

What I ment to say is the rear end of the line is 3/16 standard size with a double flair. The front end is also 3/16 size of the line,but the metric equivelent is4.75 and it has a metric fitting with what is called a bubble
flair. it's just a little different then the double flair.
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Unread 10-06-2011, 08:22 AM   #11
Foundrydude
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lol, I just realized the original post is from 2007!
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Unread 10-07-2011, 09:30 AM   #12
9496ZJs
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jeepmanzj1955: What does 4.75 mean? I don't mean to be a prick. Just curious what the threaded dimensions are.
Examples of some Dual Master adapters for the 3/16 line:
3/8-24 inverted DoubleFlare female to M12 x 1.0 Bubble flare Male
3/8-24 inverted DoubleFlare female to M11.5 x 1.5 Bubble flare Male
3/8-24 inverted DoubleFlare female to M10 x 1.0 Bubble flare Male

I have searched a few websites for something called a "4.75" and have not found anything that has to do with brake lines or hydraulics. Can you educate me?


Foundrydude: Funny. Yes, and still so relevant. The lines on both of my ZJ's ('04 and '06) have popped within the past year (2010/2011). I have added a new skill to my wrenching reportoire.
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Unread 10-08-2011, 10:47 PM   #13
mlhelfin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
What do you mean by "standard" flare? Brake lines require double flares.
"Technohead" is very correct. Brake lines require a double flare. Not only to seat correctly, but it is a DOT mandate. Not that hard to do and about $30 to $50 bucks for a decent kit. Buy a 6 foot piece of 3/16 brake line and a mini "Rigid" tubing cutter and practice. After about 20" you'll be a pro. I redid the same line your talking about earlier this year. I removed my bad line from the ABS pump, cut it about 10" from where it starts to plane out down the frame to the rear, installed a union and another union past the transfer case skid guards. Make sure you get the correct unions. There is a shallow one and a deep one. You want the deep one. It's pretty much common sense. At the back where steel goes to rubber lines, spray it up good with PB Blaster. Inspect your rubber lines to your rear axle. Mine looked decent enough to get me through the winter but that was a visual inspection and I've been working on my own cars since I was 15, so I'm confident I'm good 'till spring. I mentioned buying a flare kit because I don't think you can , "just buy a 3/16 flare dye". If your going to jeep, you got to buy tools and get pretty handy with the iron. I bought my jeep for a second vehicle, cheap, but it didn't work out the way I wanted and I'm obsessed like I use to be with 60's GM muscle cars. I bought my jeep for $300, I'm a 2 year owner of my 95 zj. I'm into it for about $3000 now and if it makes it through the winter probably another $3000-5000 next year. I'm probably pushing $????? if I didn't do the work myself. I'm already planning on a new motor next spring. I'll let you know how that works out. You can do it, Mark.
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