Low speed fan sensor on 5.9 is dead.. How do i fix this ? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 39 Old 03-28-2013, 11:46 AM
zjosh93
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http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...hp?showall=yes

This is a pretty good list of radiator fan switches. It's not comprehensive but you can look up other fan switches on RockAuto and plug them into the cross reference to find the specs. Just match your thread and switch type and you should be able to find something. make sure you note where they list the accuracy. The actual trip temp may be plus or minus 10 degrees from the spec.

Update 4/20/17, they changed the address, now:
http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_fans.php

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post #32 of 39 Old 03-28-2013, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
Candymancan
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if its plus or minus 10 degree's then that makes sense to why my new sensor turns on and off 10f cooler then my previous
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post #33 of 39 Old 03-28-2013, 05:51 PM
HighLonesome
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Awesome site!
Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post
http://www.wellsve.com/custom_search...hp?showall=yes

This is a pretty good list of radiator fan switches. It's not comprehensive but you can look up other fan switches on RockAuto and plug them into the cross reference to find the specs. Just match your thread and switch type and you should be able to find something. make sure you note where they list the accuracy. The actual trip temp may be plus or minus 10 degrees from the spec.
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post #34 of 39 Old 04-19-2017, 05:54 PM
Jsmoo80
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Fan, CAI Whistle and Oil drankage

I have a 98 5.9 and I have nothing other than issues with it. I ended up replacing the heads and pretty much every bolt on part under the hood. I have had the 5.9 for about 2 years and I love the jeep it just seems like I can get mechanically sound and I have spent a good amount already. Ever since I bought it there has always been bad coolant sensor notification on the VIC that never goes away (ugh soo annoying). I have looked at other forums and they say its a most likely a soldering issue on the back of the VIC but I have yet to do that. I took it over to a mechanic about 6 months ago and he said the low temp fan sensor was bad and lucky for me they don't manufacture them any more. He proceeded to hardwire that high speed fan to permanently stay on (which I was skeptical about) but it seemed to work until about 2 days ago. I read Jennifers response and she had mentioned that the "Borg-Warner WT3000Z COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR", does anyone have any expierience with it? Also i put a K&N Cold Air Intake on it that I love but it sequels like a stuck pig. I know ppl tell me yes it will make some whistling sound which I get but this is like I am smuggling a gaggle of birds under the hood to the point where I have to pull up the oil dip stick to break the pressure which immediately stops the sound other wise ppl look at me like fix you car man. I am not sure if there is some sealant leak or something but its definitely a negative pressure issue that can't be located, identified or remedied. Lastly I don't know if any of these prior issues i mentioned or that a has been in this thread but I am losing about a quart every 2 weeks and not concerning and expensive. Could the oil loss be because of the dip stick being up causing not enough a vacuum so it is leaving to much oil in the manifold? I love the jeep and I really dont wanna sell it but no one seems to know anything and the outlook is getting more dismal by the day. i noticed all the cooling systems all have to to with each other and my tranny has been slipping slightly as well. I dont know if this is all interconnected but if anyone could help I would really appreciate it.
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post #35 of 39 Old 04-19-2017, 09:28 PM
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsmoo80 View Post
Ever since I bought it there has always been bad coolant sensor notification on the VIC that never goes away (ugh soo annoying). I have looked at other forums and they say its a most likely a soldering issue on the back of the VIC but I have yet to do that.

I took it over to a mechanic about 6 months ago and he said the low temp fan sensor was bad and lucky for me they don't manufacture them any more. He proceeded to hardwire that high speed fan to permanently stay on (which I was skeptical about) but it seemed to work until about 2 days ago. I read Jennifers response and she had mentioned that the "Borg-Warner WT3000Z COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR", does anyone have any expierience with it?

Also i put a K&N Cold Air Intake on it that I love but it sequels like a stuck pig. I know ppl tell me yes it will make some whistling sound which I get but this is like I am smuggling a gaggle of birds under the hood to the point where I have to pull up the oil dip stick to break the pressure which immediately stops the sound other wise ppl look at me like fix you car man. I am not sure if there is some sealant leak or something but its definitely a negative pressure issue that can't be located, identified or remedied. Lastly I don't know if any of these prior issues i mentioned or that a has been in this thread but I am losing about a quart every 2 weeks and not concerning and expensive. Could the oil loss be because of the dip stick being up causing not enough a vacuum so it is leaving to much oil in the manifold?
Regarding the WT3000Z, it was never working properly. After that I tried DERALE switches in the upper and lower hoses. The one worked for about 1 month and then stopped working which is a common issue with the DERALE switches, but the second never worked at all. I ended up running a wire into the cockpit to turn the fans on/off manually.

That finally changed last year when I found the PAINLESS 30111 SWITCHES. They turn the fans on at 185 degrees and back off at 170 degrees. Because of the temperature differential between the water temperature in the upper hose (hot water coming from the engine heading to the radiator) and the lower hose (cooler water leaving the radiator) they have been working flawlessly since late last summer, although they do turn the fans on a little earlier than the factory switches do.
The true test will be the 90+ degree days of the coming summer this year but since I installed the PAINLESS switches my temperature gauge sits rock solid right where it did since my 5.9 was new in January 1998 and the factory switches were working.

This spring I am going to install two small LED's in the plastic trim on the dash to monitor fan activity. An AMBER LED that will turn on when the low speed fan comes on and a RED LED that will turn on when the high speed fan turns on.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As to the coolant sensor issue, every thread that I have read indicates a solder issue in the VIC, although thankfully I have not had this problem.

I have been running the K&N FIPK since 2000 and have never had the issue of whistling. If there is a small leak that could definitely cause the problem but pulling the dipstick would not effect that if it is the problem as far as I can tell.

Many times the oil disappearing issue is a defective Plenum seal under the intake manifold. Open the throttle blades in the throttle body and shine a flashlight down there. If you see oil in the intake manifold it is most likely a bad plenum seal.
If it is a bad plenum gasket, this is the fix:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-ALUMIN...3D271736884025
or
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...p?partid=27091

Here is how to tell if your plenum gasket has failed:

If you do the plenum fix, be sure to be VERY careful with the intake bolts and make sure that you use the correct pattern and the correct torque.

Maybe someone else can help with your oil disappearing and the squealing better than I can.

Jennifer
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post #36 of 39 Old 04-20-2017, 09:07 AM
StPaul59
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Why would you have the fan turn on at 185 down to 170???

Are you not running a thermostat?
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post #37 of 39 Old 04-20-2017, 12:20 PM
zjosh93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jenniferny View Post
Regarding the WT3000Z, it was never working properly.
That's probably because that isn't a radiator fan switch, it's a coolant temperature sensor.

A good but likely not comprehensive list of fan switches is here: http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_fans.php
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post #38 of 39 Old 04-20-2017, 12:24 PM
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zjosh93 View Post

That's probably because that isn't a radiator fan switch, it's a coolant temperature sensor.

As I discovered after installation



A good but likely not comprehensive list of fan switches is here: http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_fans.php

I found that list a few years ago, but I was looking to find a sensor that would turn the fans on sooner.

Jennifer
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post #39 of 39 Old 04-20-2017, 12:43 PM
jenniferny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StPaul59 View Post
Why would you have the fan turn on at 185 down to 170???

To allow the cooling to begin sooner to keep the temperatures more consistent and stable.
The net effect is no actual difference in engine temperature, the cooling just begins sooner.
My temperature gauge sits at the exact same spot that it has since my 5.9 was new, but I do see less spikes in the engine temperature as seen on the gauge.
Remember to that Jeep designed every engine parameter, system and sensor to achieve maximum engine emission control, NOT maximum performance.


Are you not running a thermostat?

Yes I am, a 180 degree.
The purpose of a 180 degree thermostat is to lower overall engine temperature and reduce temperature spikes and hot spots to allow for maximum timing without pinging/detonation and maximum performance, which is what my computer has been programmed for.


...

Jennifer
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