A lot of mold... seat compatibility/liner questions - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 34 Old 11-07-2013, 10:53 AM
xcaliber81
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1994 ZJ 
 
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One of my bolts broke off leaving the threaded part in the hole and its broke off flush on the inside but i look underneath and i can see the bottom part of the threaded part of the bolt sticking through. I can almost put vice grips on the end and attempt to turn it. it sticks down like an inch or more.

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post #17 of 34 Old 11-07-2013, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Villanofun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ieattacos View Post
Whats wrong with your heater
Nothing is wrong with the heater, but seeing as there is now zero insulation in the car, it would be damn cold in the mornings!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
I heard remote starts really give you problems in these jeeps. Espically since the factory electrical work has so many problems
So maybe I will just avoid any electrical work...

Quote:
Originally Posted by xcaliber81 View Post
One of my bolts broke off leaving the threaded part in the hole and its broke off flush on the inside but i look underneath and i can see the bottom part of the threaded part of the bolt sticking through. I can almost put vice grips on the end and attempt to turn it. it sticks down like an inch or more.
I'll give this a look next time I am working on it!
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post #18 of 34 Old 11-07-2013, 06:07 PM
xcaliber81
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its worth a shot it would annoy the **** out me knowing my seats are welded in lol.
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post #19 of 34 Old 11-11-2013, 10:54 PM
Gearhead31
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A pro I was gonna go through for a new alarm/remote start kit said they wouldn't even touch it and very highly recommended taking to a dealership and have them pull out/disable the factory alarm system because it all is just too touchy. Most of the time, the factory alarm system starts going haywire with aftermarket kitd. It's a little different for the different model years, mine's a 95, so take that as you wish.

1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
1998 Chevy Cheyenne K1500, 5.7L Vortec, mostly stock
*In peace, sons bury their fathers. In war, fathers bury their sons. - Herodotus
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonStebbins
We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D
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post #20 of 34 Old 11-11-2013, 11:33 PM
davidtownsend
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead31 View Post
A pro I was gonna go through for a new alarm/remote start kit said they wouldn't even touch it and very highly recommended taking to a dealership and have them pull out/disable the factory alarm system because it all is just too touchy. Most of the time, the factory alarm system starts going haywire with aftermarket kitd. It's a little different for the different model years, mine's a 95, so take that as you wish.
I have a remote start I my 94. Works really good. Best buy installed it. They did something with the alarm to by pass it.

1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L Limited
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7L Hemi
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post #21 of 34 Old 11-12-2013, 07:36 AM
ZJNewbi3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidtownsend View Post

I have a remote start I my 94. Works really good. Best buy installed it. They did something with the alarm to by pass it.
This is the first time in a long time I've heard Best Buy do good work. Maybe you got lucky and had someone who cared and knew a lot about their job.

Just trying to keep her goin'!!
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post #22 of 34 Old 11-12-2013, 08:04 AM
davidtownsend
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post

This is the first time in a long time I've heard Best Buy do good work. Maybe you got lucky and had someone who cared and knew a lot about their job.
I'm sure glad they did! And it is a cheap remote start.

1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L Limited
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7L Hemi
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post #23 of 34 Old 11-18-2013, 07:44 PM
Gearhead31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
This is the first time in a long time I've heard Best Buy do good work. Maybe you got lucky and had someone who cared and knew a lot about their job.
x2. It's been a good 9 or so years since I heard of Best Buy doing anything decent, let alone good. Glad it worked for ya! I'll have to look into that again, see if I can find someone that would guarantee the work(doubtful but worth a shot)

1995 ZJ ltd, 4.0 i6, *cough stock cough* 253,xxx and still pumping strong
1998 Chevy Cheyenne K1500, 5.7L Vortec, mostly stock
*In peace, sons bury their fathers. In war, fathers bury their sons. - Herodotus
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonStebbins
We can call it the Whoosh King Catalog System. :D
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post #24 of 34 Old 11-23-2013, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
Villanofun
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I just put the Jeep through inspection, and it passed with flying colors (all it needed was a horn!). All of the fluids, except the transfer case, have been swapped. All in all, between the bedliner, fluids, inspection, tires, and full brake swap, I was able to get this thing on the road for about $1,000. All it needs now is a steering stabilizer. Any recommendations?
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post #25 of 34 Old 11-23-2013, 10:34 AM
ZeeJay1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villanofun View Post

Unfortunately, I sheered the two rear bolts on both front seats. So if I get in an accident, I would probably die.

I am going to weld the seats to the floor to make sure that doesn't happen. All in all, the smell of the bedliner (very strong) has almost dissipated after two days.
Did you get the seats welded in?

If you havent got to that yet, try drilling through the center of the bolt from inside. start with a small bit and step up a size and drill again. then when you get almost out to the threads get under it with a pair of vice grips and turn it out from the bottom. the material that is left will be weak so it just deforms and turns loose. i used a scribe to get the remaining metal out. I spent all day on two bolts.... but i didnt have welder and nothing better to do.
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post #26 of 34 Old 11-24-2013, 05:37 AM
speedbucket
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Just hit the factory tacked on nut with a cut off wheel and use your own nut

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #27 of 34 Old 11-25-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
Villanofun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Did you get the seats welded in?

If you havent got to that yet, try drilling through the center of the bolt from inside. start with a small bit and step up a size and drill again. then when you get almost out to the threads get under it with a pair of vice grips and turn it out from the bottom. the material that is left will be weak so it just deforms and turns loose. i used a scribe to get the remaining metal out. I spent all day on two bolts.... but i didnt have welder and nothing better to do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbucket View Post
Just hit the factory tacked on nut with a cut off wheel and use your own nut
They have been completely welded down. I didn't personally do it, though.

I have a minor leak in the upper radiator hose and have also found some coolant sitting on the floor. 1) fortunately it isn't carpet, but bedliner , and 2) I had a bottle of coolant flopping around in the trunk, so it may have actually came from that? Will report back if I figure out what is wrong.
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post #28 of 34 Old 11-25-2013, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
Villanofun
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FWIW, the weld job on the driver's seat:





It gets the job done (but my ****ty camera on my phone doesn't, apparently).
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post #29 of 34 Old 11-26-2013, 09:32 AM
OverlandZJ
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First i'v seen a seat base welded in, i'd have opted for fixing it.

Your a local.. i'm through Conshy all the time enroute to Jeffersonville.
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post #30 of 34 Old 11-26-2013, 01:07 PM
speedbucket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villanofun View Post
FWIW, the weld job on the driver's seat:





It gets the job done (but my ****ty camera on my phone doesn't, apparently).
that will not hold in an accident. looks like it was done with a soldering iron! lol

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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