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Unread 08-12-2013, 08:44 AM   #1
V65Ozzie
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locking Diffs-cost effective

After a weekend playing in my yard, I realize I may have a need for lockable Diffs. I ended up having to walk back to the barn to get my tractor to pull me out. Any input from the assembled hoards? Cost effective is the key, it's still my daily driver.
I sooooooo want to build a 4WD trail through my bottom 40....... Come on down, bring chainsaws and shovels.......

I have a couple of pics, RF tire submerged in a mud pit, LR wheel spinning uselessly in the air, and hung up on the edge on the subframe. Will post when I can get them onto the computer. Quite amusing really....I wasn't even trying to 4 wheel, just scoping out the lay of the land so I can get in there to do some more clearing, and misjudged the distance while turning around. I've cleared about an acre of solid ground since the beavers mysteriously disappeared and the dam broke.......
Who knew there was a creek there? It was a big swampy pond when I moved in....
Lots of bonfire material to move.

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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:00 AM   #2
riot1987
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Look into mechanical type lockers. They are cheap and work well. They also still keep your jeep streetable. Youll feel it in there but Ive been pleased with how mine drives on road.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 09:07 AM   #3
Jeeples
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Aussie locker for the D30 is dirt cheap and installs easy:

http://www.aussielocker.com/index.ph...-xd-13027.html

As for the rear, I'd leave that alone until you can toss in something a little more durable than the D35 in. Although its up to you really, but if you want to lock the rear, I would at least look into upgraded axle shafts and go easy on the skinny pedal.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
As for the rear, I'd leave that alone until you can toss in something a little more durable than the D35 in. Although its up to you really, but if you want to lock the rear, I would at least look into upgraded axle shafts and go easy on the skinny pedal.
His is a 98 according to his profile, so his should have the d44 right? I don't have a 44 but I've heard you can lock them and put 33's on with little trouble, much bigger then that and you break shafts super quick. Idk this is just what I've heard
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Unread 08-12-2013, 12:57 PM   #5
WhiteOut
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^ He has a 4.0, D35c in the back of those.

To be honest, the tires you have are not the most aggressive so doing lockers might not get you the desired results. Tires that clog with mud on an un-locked rig are still going to clog with a locker. Try airing down close to 10psi next time, see if it helps.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 02:19 PM   #6
Jeeples
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^ He has a 4.0, D35c in the back of those.

To be honest, the tires you have are not the most aggressive so doing lockers might not get you the desired results. Tires that clog with mud on an un-locked rig are still going to clog with a locker. Try airing down close to 10psi next time, see if it helps.

That too. Good tires and the driver mod will go a lot further than lockers and crappy tires.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 06:37 PM   #7
KyBoy1991
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Idk folks....I think 4 tires with power vs only 2 has to be better no matter what tread the tires are. You are doubling your options....
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #8
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Aussie locker for the D30 is dirt cheap and installs easy:

http://www.aussielocker.com/index.ph...-xd-13027.html

As for the rear, I'd leave that alone until you can toss in something a little more durable than the D35 in. Although its up to you really, but if you want to lock the rear, I would at least look into upgraded axle shafts and go easy on the skinny pedal.
whats wrong with the D35?

IMO, lock the rear first and leave the front alone. Aussie or something similar for the rear, leave the front alone until you upgrade to u-joint shafts over the stock CV style shafts.

a mechanical style locker will be useful off road without many on road drawbacks.


Source: 5 hard years with a welded D35 and 0 broken shafts, open D30 and 2 broken shafts.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:01 PM   #9
underpowered
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Originally Posted by KyBoy1991 View Post
Idk folks....I think 4 tires with power vs only 2 has to be better no matter what tread the tires are. You are doubling your options....
yes it will get your farther, but will get you in trouble as well.

Driver mod will take you a long way.
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Unread 08-12-2013, 07:12 PM   #10
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Lock the front. Leave the rear. Aussie is a good choice.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 08:29 AM   #11
KyBoy1991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered

yes it will get your farther, but will get you in trouble as well.

Driver mod will take you a long way.
True, knowing how to drive helps every situation.

I had Detroit TruTrac in my D35 and broke 2 shafts within 6 months, both on pavement. Never could break one offroad. But I don't play on rocks either. So my tires could generally always spin free. Which is why I broke 2 on pavement, and neither was I playing or being stupid with the skinny pedal.

It's just a matter of time with that situation before the constant back and forth twisting rotation on the shafts makes the weak and the break. It's like bending a paper clip back and forth....eventually it breaks.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 11:21 AM   #12
Jeeples
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Originally Posted by underpowered View Post
whats wrong with the D35?

IMO, lock the rear first and leave the front alone. Aussie or something similar for the rear, leave the front alone until you upgrade to u-joint shafts over the stock CV style shafts.

a mechanical style locker will be useful off road without many on road drawbacks.


Source: 5 hard years with a welded D35 and 0 broken shafts, open D30 and 2 broken shafts.
There's no denying that there are 'better' heavier duty options out there for rear axles compared to the D35. But I do agree with you that knowing the limitations of your rig and how to wheel it will help your drivetrain live a longer life.

I wheeled my YJ on 33's and the D35 for 3 or 4 years too and never had any axle issues.
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Unread 08-13-2013, 02:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
^ He has a 4.0, D35c in the back of those.

To be honest, the tires you have are not the most aggressive so doing lockers might not get you the desired results. Tires that clog with mud on an un-locked rig are still going to clog with a locker. Try airing down close to 10psi next time, see if it helps.
Oh, didn't realize that! My friend has a 98 5.2 and it has the 44, so I just assumed all 96+ had the 44. Guess you learn something new erreday!
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Unread 08-13-2013, 08:06 PM   #14
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
There's no denying that there are 'better' heavier duty options out there for rear axles compared to the D35. But I do agree with you that knowing the limitations of your rig and how to wheel it will help your drivetrain live a longer life.

I wheeled my YJ on 33's and the D35 for 3 or 4 years too and never had any axle issues.
no doubt there are better options for rear axles, but for mild wheeling on 33's or less the d35 is more than adequate. Many seem to think that the d35 breaks when the term locker is even mentioned around one.

when i locked my d30 on my XJ, i broke a shaft nearly every time i went out on 33's, and to this day, 4 jeeps later have never broken a D35 shaft but have broken half a dozen or more D30 shafts. so the philosophy of locking the IMO weaker front axle instead of the rear makes absolutely no sense.


i understand the thinking of why you may want to lock the front first out west, in the rocks, but in the southeast a locked rear gets you farther than a locked front will .
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Unread 08-14-2013, 02:46 PM   #15
V65Ozzie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
^ He has a 4.0, D35c in the back of those.

To be honest, the tires you have are not the most aggressive so doing lockers might not get you the desired results. Tires that clog with mud on an un-locked rig are still going to clog with a locker. Try airing down close to 10psi next time, see if it helps.
Yup Got the 35 axles. I'm upgrading to 31's as soon as I free up some cash, maybe a tad more aggressive. I run the AT's as a balance. I probably should air them down, but so far I've only got stuck in my yard...... again last night, different spot, sunk into the mud up to the axles, it's still really soggy from being drained, and it just rained....live and learn, If I had the momentum I would have powered through, but I was chugging along inspecting stuff. Almost got the tractor stuck pulling it out, it was really really soft down there. Beach run this weekend, will be airing down this time, hopefully this will address the overheating I got last time, the motor won't be working as hard.
Lockers added to wish list.
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