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Unread 08-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #1
RoldGold
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 273
Likely failing CV axle

So while turning right sharply at high speeds (35+), I can hear a rhythmic rubbing sound. I know CV axles click when they need to be replaced, but this is less of a click and more a rubbing noise. If necessary I could probably capture the sound with a camera.

My question is, does this still sound like a possible explanation? And is there a specific brand of CV axle I should look for? I read somewhere of someone using Moog axles but I'm unable to find any on rockauto.

Thanks!

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1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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Unread 08-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #2
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Is the boot ripped?
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Unread 08-25-2013, 05:55 PM   #3
jabba974
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Location: Ionia, MI
Posts: 246
Hmm..I would also look at the hub bearing....
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Unread 08-26-2013, 02:30 PM   #4
RoldGold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
Is the boot ripped?
No, but there is pretty much no grease in there. I can move the boot and expose the internals easily.
__________________
1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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Unread 08-26-2013, 02:31 PM   #5
RoldGold
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 273
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabba974 View Post
Hmm..I would also look at the hub bearing....
How would one go about checking that?
__________________
1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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Unread 08-27-2013, 07:17 PM   #6
BigDaveZJ
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 540
I would lean towards the hub too. One method is to jack that wheel off the ground, grab it at 6 and 12 and give it a good shake, similar to testing for ball joints. Unit bearings are pretty easy to place, although based on your location I would invest in some PB Blaster to get it all apart. In addition to the tools needed to get the wheel and brake caliper off, you will also need a 36mm socket, and a 12pt 13mm socket and/or wrench. If you don't have air tools, my recommendation would be to take the wheel off, and before you take the caliper off, loosen the 36mm hub nut. Easiest to do that with the brake on, and having a helper use the brakes to hold everything in place while you go at the 36mm hub nut with a breaker bar, which you will need if you don't have air tools. A hi-lift handle is a good substitute if you don't have a breaker bar.
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Unread 08-28-2013, 08:05 PM   #7
jabba974
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A little FYI..if you don't have a helper to hold the brakes, take a heavy screwdriver, and insert it into the rotor and brace it against the caliper braket...this makes geting the hub nut on and off...
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Unread 08-29-2013, 08:49 PM   #8
RoldGold
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Ok everyone, I've got all the info I need. Thanks, and I'll look into it when I get some more funding...
__________________
1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
RoldGold is offline   Reply With Quote




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