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Unread 04-24-2013, 10:18 AM   #31
dnuccio
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I didnt need a spring compressor when I did my BB. I just disconnected the sway bar, shock, and lower control arm and was able to get enough room that way.

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Unread 04-24-2013, 10:21 AM   #32
WhiteOut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
Hey I'm kind of bringing back an old thread but SPRING IS HERE IN WISCONSIN! Have a couple questions before I confirm all plans to boost my jeep.

I'm getting the IRO 2" BB with the hydro shocks, I was doing a little more searching and found that I could get new coil spring isolators too and stack them with the pucks to get (roughly) 2.5" Link: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFZ

Would this be a good idea to do? I was looking around my springs the other day and saw that my isolators are kind of run down to a point where if I take the spring out they will just crumble apart.

ALSO should I extend my rear spring retaining posts? Found a good thread on how to do so: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/e...posts-1388945/

Finally! Should I rent a spring compressor from an auto store? I'll be using these instructions for my lift and it recommends it: http://kevinsoffroad.com/sharedinsta...allbbzjxj.html

This is my daily city driver. I live in Milwaukee and the streets SUCK. This truck will be taken off road in Upper Michigan. It will pretty much see a lot of old (and some new) logging trails.

Thanks for all the help!
Upgrade to either the DT or the Bilstein shocks. I would just replace the current isolators with new and leave it at that, you'll wind up getting a bit of a boost if the old ones are garbage. You should be fine without doing post extensions at 2", I ran mine without them and was fine.

You don't really need the compressor for a 2" lift. The rears will just fall out and the front can be pushed in and by manipulating the axle up and down on the opposite side you're working on.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 08:09 PM   #33
ZJNewbi3
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Awesome! I just want to make sure everything is done right. Better safe than sorry! Anything simple I should replace while I have the wheel off? (Except brakes those were put in september)
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Unread 04-24-2013, 08:23 PM   #34
PeteNnewburg
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Check the upper & lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and track bar bushings, replace if dry rotted or sponge like. Grease all the ball joints, tie rod ends and u-joints. While your there check to be sure your brake hoses and lines are in good shape, no cracked hoses or flakey rust on the lines. CV joint boots OK? etc.... Good time to put in a new fuel filter and change lubes.
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Unread 06-09-2013, 03:33 PM   #35
ZJNewbi3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
I would just replace the current isolators with new and leave it at that, you'll wind up getting a bit of a boost if the old ones are garbage.
Looking at rock auto they only have front spring isolators sold in pairs, do the fronts work safely in the back? Saw one thread on here that many said yes to but one guy said they were different shapes :/

Looking at getting these:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...732&cc=1182114
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Unread 06-09-2013, 05:00 PM   #36
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
there is no point lifting your jeep more than 2"
I'm REALLY hoping you mean Just for this thread. Either way, please explain reasons NOT to upgrade more than 2"
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Unread 06-10-2013, 02:32 AM   #37
moparlover1992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
Looking at rock auto they only have front spring isolators sold in pairs, do the fronts work safely in the back? Saw one thread on here that many said yes to but one guy said they were different shapes :/

Looking at getting these:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...732&cc=1182114
The rears have a flat spot on them. They are not a full circle. I don't think they work.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #38
ZJNewbi3
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Then wouldn't the 2" lift spacers also have that "D" shape? All four are circular. Just lookin to save some money instead of buying isolators for $65 from IRO...
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Unread 06-10-2013, 06:41 PM   #39
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJNewbi3 View Post
Then wouldn't the 2" lift spacers also have that "D" shape? All four are circular. Just lookin to save some money instead of buying isolators for $65 from IRO...
Weird, my Daystar BB had the flat spot on them for the rear. The front stock isolators won't work on the rear, it's a tighter fit up by the coil posts in the rear.
This is what mine looked like and here are the pics of the rear isolators.
picture-9.png   picture-10.png  
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Unread 06-10-2013, 06:56 PM   #40
moparlover1992
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If you stack the isolator on top of the spacer in the rear it clears that lip so the rear spacer doesn't need to have it. Just about every budget boost I've ever seen has all circular spacers.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 07:29 PM   #41
ZJNewbi3
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Hm so I'm stuck with buying the rears from IRO but what about the fronts? IRO advertises their isolator to be 0.75" thick and to my understanding that's the stock (brand new) thickness. Or should I just buy both pairs from IRO and stop being cheap?
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Unread 06-10-2013, 07:55 PM   #42
PeteNnewburg
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Flat Spots

This should be about time for Kolak to add his $386 worth! My Kolak "budget" boost included 2" F&R spacers, both with flat spots, I assume for tire clearance. I kept my OE isolators, extra 1/4 inch lift as both were in good condition. The Bilstein 5100 shocks are super smooth, I think I would prefer something a bit stiffer. ( My $0.02). I would do it again knowing I am getting what I paid for. My next ZJ though will stay at stock height.
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Unread 06-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #43
moparlover1992
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The fronts from rock auto are fine. IRO isolators are a factory replacement.
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
Mopar or no car!
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Unread 06-10-2013, 08:22 PM   #44
moparlover1992
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And everyone understands trying to save a few bucks man.
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
Mopar or no car!
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Unread 06-10-2013, 08:30 PM   #45
ZJNewbi3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteNnewburg View Post
This should be about time for Kolak to add his $386 worth! My Kolak "budget" boost included 2" F&R spacers, both with flat spots, I assume for tire clearance. I kept my OE isolators, extra 1/4 inch lift as both were in good condition. The Bilstein 5100 shocks are super smooth, I think I would prefer something a bit stiffer. ( My $0.02). I would do it again knowing I am getting what I paid for. My next ZJ though will stay at stock height.
Not bad. I'm going to run RE twin tubes. I don't know how different shocks ride but I hope I don't crack a tooth going down my city street then shell out cash for the dentist and Bilstein's. I'm also replacing all 8 control arms, front+rear track bar bushings, plus front and rear sway bushings. Total without alignment is about $400. Expecting to pay about $80 for Sears 6mo guaranteed alignment then I'd add another $50 for broken bolts, PB blaster, and food for my helper.

Doing all this work because it looks like the Jeep is running stock shocks (still ride good) and I'm assuming no other suspension part was changed in its 176k mile life and its a good time to do so since I'm taking it all apart anyway.
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