I don't know what control arms those are but the shocks look like low quality rough country. You have the front CV drive shaft which can't telescope in or out much and that is probably why it ripped apart. Usually it comes apart from the other end with the CV. I'd switch the front yoke to a double cardon u joint style rather than replace the old one. It will just come apart again. The coils look like they are bulging possibly from the axle not being centered under the truck. Does it have a front adjustable track bar? If not then that's why.
The front looks a decent amount lower than the back also (or maybe it's just the angle of the picture). Is that from the springs or just the added weight of that aftermarket bumper?
95' ZJ Limited: 5.2L, 46RH, BFG 33/12.50R15 ATs, TJ D44 4.10 Rubicon Axles, 4.5" Premium IRO lift, Billstein 5125's, NVG241OR Rubicon 4:1 TC, Mark VIII Electric Fan conversion, 160 amp alternator, Custom front bumper with Warn XD9000i, Griffin HD Radiator, IRO Belly skid, SkidRow Engine/Tranny skid Next Mod: RockHard Back Bumper and Roll Cage
It's the weight of the bumper. It's way to big but it was lying around so I slapped it on. It has an adjustable track bar. I have been looking all day for at least a proper 4 inch suspension lift and can't find one. Any help would be appreciated. Ordered a front drive shaft conversion kit for 350 today . I thought it was a good price seeing as I needed one anyway. The shocks are rough country 9000 I believe definitely not the bottom line ones
with that setup, honestly, i'd add a 2" spacer to the front, maybe an additional isolator as well to get you to 5" add a set of adjustable control arms front and rear, start hacking out fender and run 33s. that kits not a bad place to start. also make sure those shocks are long enough; they don't look like it. for 5" lift you want them to be at a MINIMUM 26" extended.
that will be a great start, then find some good 33" tires, and maybe aussie lockers. also, might be worth your while to do things like ball joints, hubs, brakes etc. all that basic maintenence stuff. and a driveshaft.
the things that the coils sit on at the fram end. put some sort of 2.5" spacer, or a set of the 2" spacers and an extra isolator (they are cheap new too) and the adjustable uppers. i'd probably opt for longer shocks too just in case.
Not sure if it's been mentioned or not yet...but if you have H1 37's then I'm 99% sure those are for 16.5" wheels. Basically that means you will be running recentered H1 wheels with beadlocks....$1,000+ right there.
For 37's you will need new front and rear axles. 37's is a ****ty size because if you go D60 you will drag your pumpkin everywhere. If you stay D30 it will break almost for sure. That leaves D44, which for the money, time, and fab work involved you might as well go to one tons...
98 5.9 ZJ - 4.5" lift, 33x12.50 MT/R Kevlars
02 Z06 - Supercharged, E85, lots of rwhp, built and tuned by me
Ok so now that I have Done my research and educated myself... I wanted to apologize for being a dumb a**. Thank you all for your patience and information. I have done the front drive shaft conversion from rustys off road...love it. Fixed 90 percent of my mechanicals minus a fudged up speed sensor in the tranny (damage from old cv ds snapping ) and randomly I have a real rough idle and she burns real rich when in the rough idle. I replaced up stream o2 and that helped a lot ( because it always had a rough idle) but regardless I am pretty positive that the deficiency is coming from the air side not fuel...so I don't know what else to do besides live with it. As far as suspension goes I'm saving up for a 5.5 lift with long arms. New trac bar and steering conversion from rustys. (all my suspension parts need replaced like 5 years ago) I've found rustys to be the best priced with best reputation. Just thought I'd give an update.