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post #46 of 61 Old 01-01-2017, 06:31 AM
Timo_90xj
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Yeah, I wouldn't use an impact gun if you're using the old crush sleeve. Like kg6mov wrote, it's not absolutely necessary to use a new crush sleeve, but that would give you the best result.
I've done yoke swaps both with an old crush sleeve and a new one. Didn't really make a difference in that both worked flawlessly for the next 20-30k miles I drove on those. If you overtightened the pinion nut, bearings would most likely fail within a couple hundred miles.

It's a good idea to get a "hand feel" rotating the pinion before pulling it, it gives you a good idea how it should be with the new yoke. Remember to clean the pinion threads thoughly, and use blue loctite on the threads with the new nut. Do NOT re-use the old nut.


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1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #47 of 61 Old 01-08-2017, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
I wouldn't hit it with the impact gun for the reinstall, I'd be too worried about damaging the crush sleeve. I know there's not a lot of room to work, but I would hold the yoke with a pipe wrench or other tool and crank down on the pinion nut by hand.
I'm in trouble guys! I measured the preload as I state before and only got a reading of about 2 in lbs on my cheap beam style torque wrench. I figured what the hell, I'll just go for it until I get a reading of 5 in lbs higher than my initial reading.

I took the old yoke off, added a new seal, put on the new yoke with a new nut, set my torque wrench to 150 ft lbs started tightening the nut. I stopped before my torque wrench clicked that I'm at 150 ft lbs so that I could get an idea of where I'm at and now I'm getting a reading of 12 in lbs and if I spin the yoke by hand, is definitely not as easy to turn.

What's happened?! I'm following the directions that was listed in your build thread Kg6mov. Am I screwed or what? I have no idea what to do now.
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post #48 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by CamoX413 View Post
What's happened?! I'm following the directions that was listed in your build thread Kg6mov. Am I screwed or what? I have no idea what to do now.
You probably tightened the pinion nut so much that the crush sleeve collapsed too much. That causes for excessive pinion bearing preload, and too much resistance when pinion rotates.
After the crush sleeve has started to collapse, it doesn't necessarily require that much torque to crush it more. Also, when it does crush when torquing the pinion nut, getting from ie. 2in./lbs. to 5-7in./lbs. preload usually requires as little as under a quarter of a full revolution on the pinion nut.


If you crushed the crush sleeve too much, you need to pull the yoke, pinion seal, outer pinion bearing & crush sleeve.
Removing the outer pinion bearing often requires you to pull the carrier* so that you can tap the pinion out from the outer bearing. You can then replace the pinion crush sleeve and put in a new one.
Crushing the new crush sleeve needs a heck of a lot of initial torque, so you either need a GOOD (up to ~400-500lbs/ft.) air or electric impact wrench - or a long piece of tube and you sweating like a pig to crush the crush sleeve.


*pull the brake calipers & rotors, pop the diff cover, pull the center pin, remove c-clips and pull out shafts, remove carrier)

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #49 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Timo thank you for the reply. I didn't even get to 150 ft lbs on the pinion nut. You really think I need new bearing and a crush sleeve?
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post #50 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 11:54 AM
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It seems a stretch that you would have overtorqued the pinion before you got to 150 ft/lbs, but it's certainly possible.

Do you know, or do you have any indication of if the yoke has been removed before? Since your initial preload seemed too low I was assuming it was an incorrect reading, I'm wondering if the initial reading was low because the bearings were loose and now that they've been retorqued are sitting better.

If accurate, 12 in/lbs isn't out of spec for old bearings. If there is no play in the pinion yoke then you may simply be looking at bearings that want to be done soon.


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post #51 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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When I get home I'll see if I have any play in the yoke. If not, what do I do from here? Is changing out the bearing an easy task or should I just put her back together and hope everything is alright?
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post #52 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 12:49 PM
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If you have no play, I would throw it together and drive it. The risk there is that the crush sleeve is too far gone and you pinion bearings will eat themselves. If the theory that you are in this situation because the pinion bearings were on their last legs then that's not a big loss. The preload of the pinion is the key, and it's not that bad IMO.

You should notice excessive heat after a short drive if it's overtorqued, you should also hear the whine if things start to go south.

Of course I am not a mechanic, and I also have a small fleet of ****heaps at my disposal when I can't drive the vehicle I want.

I don't know of a good way to inspect the crush sleeve without disassembling things to the point where you should just swap for new parts anyway. It's also a good idea to consider the long term plan for the axle, if there's a regear in the not too distant future then I would do a test drive to ensure the bearings aren't cooking and run with it. If this is where you want to be then maybe you want to redo all the bearings anyway.


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post #53 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 01:23 PM
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Yeap, under 150 lbs/ft shouldn't collapse the crush sleeve, but it's possible.

It's honestly pretty hard to tell if there's a bit too much preload on the pinion bearings when the carrier is installed. 12 in/lbs. of rotational friction is not too much like kg6mov wrote, but it certainly is on the high side with used bearings.

Take your Jeep for a short test drive and see if the pinion seems to get too hot. If it does, IMO you better check what's going on.

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #54 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Okay guys so I don't know what gives but I went outside and checked for play and the yoke is on snug so no issues there.

I rechecked my bearing preload and I'm consistently getting about 5 in lbs now.

It definitely feels like there's a little bit more resistance when turning the yoke by hand than there was when I first got a 2 in lb measurement but not a whole lot of difference.

Should I snug it more or stop? According to my initial measurement I was getting about 2 inch-pounds and now I'm getting about 5 inch-pounds.
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post #55 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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I don't understand why I was getting 12 in lbs last night and only 5 now? It's very confusing. I should have bought a nice expensive torque wrench so that I could have eliminated that as a variable.
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post #56 of 61 Old 01-09-2017, 04:31 PM
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A little harder to spin by hand is what you're going for. I'd be most inclined to leave it alone.

If we assume that the new measurement of 5 in/lbs is correct and the the original measurement of 2 in/lbs is correct then you should technically need to go a little further. I'm not confident in either of those numbers being correct though. If we say that your current preload is between 5 and 12 in/lbs then you're in the right area.

If you've got reason to believe that the 5 in/lbs and 2 in/lbs are both correct, or are the same amount off (+/- an in/lb or three), then you should crank a little more, note that it shouldn't take much.

So without being able to put a hand on your torque wrench and make a judgement of why it's giving you lip, it's your call.


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post #57 of 61 Old 01-10-2017, 12:28 PM
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I'd probably just leave it alone. You're not going to fry the pinion bearings if the preload is slightly on the low side, the biggest danger is if the yoke nut was to spin open.
That being said, I'd put my bets on you not running into any issues as long as you used a new nut, cleaned the pinion threads and used blue loctite when torquing the nut.

As kg6mov mentioned, technically you should go for a bit more preload - I always try to aim at midway of the given preload rating - but IMHO it's better as is than it'd be with an overtightened nut causing excessive preload. It would suck if you needed to replace the crush sleeve.. trust me!

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1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #58 of 61 Old 01-11-2017, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys. I'm in the process of getting everything put back together. I've been going home from work and doing a little every evening.

I did use a new nut so I'll let you guys know pretty soon how it goes.

Once I test drive, how do I know if the pinion is getting too hot?
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post #59 of 61 Old 01-11-2017, 04:24 PM
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Compare the temp of the front pinion to a baseline, like the rear pinion. A little warmth is expected, hot is not.


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post #60 of 61 Old 01-16-2017, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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Compare the temp of the front pinion to a baseline, like the rear pinion. A little warmth is expected, hot is not.
I got it all back together and drove around all day. My front pinion was warm when I got home, maybe just slightly warmer than the rear but not hot by any means.
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