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post #31 of 61 Old 10-04-2016, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
CamoX413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
He's converting from rzeppa to u-joint, like we were just discussing.

There's no reason to put an SYE on a ZJ under 6".
Hey Kg6mov, I'm just getting around to installing my new shaft. What's the best way to change the rezeppa yoke to the u bolt yoke i just ordered? Do I really need to take out the axles? I read you can mark the nut and the pinion but I'm using a new nut and a new style yoke so I don't know if there's a difference in size of the two yokes.

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post #32 of 61 Old 10-04-2016, 07:46 AM
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I don't trust the mark the nut method. It might be fine for just a pinion seal replacement, but I don't trust it for a yoke swap.

My version of the FSM method is here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...l#post30010649

I do recommend pulling the shafts, but for me that's a really quick job with no rust. If it's a pain then just pull the tires and rotors, don't want brake drag giving you the wrong measurement.


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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #33 of 61 Old 10-04-2016, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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I've got to change ball joints soon anyway so it may be best that I try to break those hubs loose. I don't however have a dial type torque wrench, just a click type
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post #34 of 61 Old 10-15-2016, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Will a 28mm fit the dana 30 pinion nut?
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post #35 of 61 Old 10-15-2016, 11:43 AM
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I did the Rzeppa/u-joint swap about two months ago. The dial inch/pound torque wrench or at least a beam style is required. Clicker type is no bueno. Follow the FSM instructions or you will probably be doing it over. Chances are that your local O'Reillys has a beam style for around $30. BTW don't forget the new pinion seal.

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post #36 of 61 Old 10-15-2016, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoX413 View Post
Will a 28mm fit the dana 30 pinion nut?
28mm is on the small side, the nut is a 1 1/8. Might work, but a 1 1/8 socket should be pretty easy to get.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #37 of 61 Old 10-17-2016, 10:12 AM
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You may want to check the front drive shaft and the centering yoke which is inside the double cardon ( 2 universals) assembly. just replaced mine. The needle bearing were dry and causing noise and vibration.
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post #38 of 61 Old 12-30-2016, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
I don't trust the mark the nut method. It might be fine for just a pinion seal replacement, but I don't trust it for a yoke swap.

My version of the FSM method is here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...l#post30010649

I do recommend pulling the shafts, but for me that's a really quick job with no rust. If it's a pain then just pull the tires and rotors, don't want brake drag giving you the wrong measurement.
Hey Kg6mov,

I again need your assistance. I'm replacing the rzeppa yoke tonight and I just used my cheapo beam style inch pound torque wrench to measure the turning of the yoke. I'm concerned because I'm only reading about 2 inch pounds when I turn the yoke. Does that sound about right?
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post #39 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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post #40 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamoX413 View Post
Hey Kg6mov,

I again need your assistance. I'm replacing the rzeppa yoke tonight and I just used my cheapo beam style inch pound torque wrench to measure the turning of the yoke. I'm concerned because I'm only reading about 2 inch pounds when I turn the yoke. Does that sound about right?
You could read 2 in/lbs. with used bearings, rotating just the pinion with the carrier pulled. With the carrier in place, there's no way it can be that low.
However, if you get a constant 2 in/lbs. with your needle-type, it is what it is. Tighten the new crush sleeve to show about the same or a bit more.

I bought a Park Tool in/lbs. needle type quite a few years ago for R&P setup. It has been working wonderfully. Dial-type is not a must, a good enough needle-type works fine.

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post #41 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Timo, please bare with me here because I don't know much about axles, gears and such.

I only removed axles and rotors because I'm replacing ball joints at the same time. I never removed the diff cover or the crush sleeve. Do I need a new crush sleeve? I was under the impression that swapping yokes was as easy as just measuring the bearing preload, zip off the old pinion nut, slap on the new yoke, add a new pinion nut until I get a measurement of 5in lbs higher than my first reading.
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post #42 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 10:31 AM
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You shouldn't need a new crush sleeve unless you (or a previous gorilla) crank the nut down too far and destroy it.

2 in/lb isn't a lot but I'd roll with it like Timo said, FSM says 5 in/lb over pre-removal reading. You don't need to get a perfect 7 on your wrench, just go for a little more than what you're getting now.

I'd calibrate the analog-digit-wrench as well before you remove the nut (if I wrote this in time) spin it by hand a few times and get a feel for the drag, that will give you a backup sanity check.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #43 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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The cheap beam torque wrench i bought was on eBay. it's a mechanical beam torque wrench with a needle.

I'm going to do as you all suggested and try to get somewhere around 5 in lbs higher than my initial reading and spin it by hand a few times to get a feel for what i'm looking for. I'll update this afternoon. Thanks again Fellas!
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post #44 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 01:01 PM Thread Starter
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I do have another question. Can I just give the pinion nut a quick zip with my impact gun and check bearing preload after every zip or does that sound too risky? I'm working by myself and getting that much torque with a torque wrench might be difficult for me alone.
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post #45 of 61 Old 12-31-2016, 02:33 PM
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I wouldn't hit it with the impact gun for the reinstall, I'd be too worried about damaging the crush sleeve. I know there's not a lot of room to work, but I would hold the yoke with a pipe wrench or other tool and crank down on the pinion nut by hand.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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