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Unread 11-29-2005, 07:01 PM   #1
bsm413
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LED Turn Signal Fix

Trying to get around the rapid blinking and blown fuses when attempting to replace my parking / turn signal bulbs w/ LED's. I found a store on ebay that sells an Electronic LED Flasher which is supposed to replace the one already in the vehicle. Does anyone know if there is one of these in Jeeps to even replace? I've included a link to the ebay site.

If not, they also offer a load resistor kit that's supposed to fix the problem as well. Looking for any insight on this product or other fixes. Thanks



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

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Unread 11-29-2005, 08:44 PM   #2
greasefingers
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Yes another word for a flasher unit is a thermal relay. Ninety nine percent of all vehicles have them. I believe the jeep relay/flasher is located behind the glove box. You would not need to replace this, but the LEDs need a resistor(s) as they typically run on 3.6 volts @ 30 milliamps. If an LED states that it is a direct 12 volt replacement, then it is implied that there is a resistor potted into the base of the socket. You are probably suppling 12.6 volts to a device that wants 3.6 volts. The thermal blinker relay is heating up at a faster rate and causing it to cycle more often. However when you buy off of ebay, detailed electrical specifications are rare. You can go to superbrightleds to learn more.

I am currently designing a 20 LEDs light project. I want the under carriage of the vehicle to light up in white light (no bling here). This is because my wife leaves work at 8pm and walks across a dark parking lot. So I need these LEDs to light up with pressing the key FOB and dim-out automatically after the door is closed.
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Unread 11-29-2005, 08:53 PM   #3
bsm413
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Quote:
I am currently designing a 20 LEDs light project. I want the under carriage of the vehicle to light up in white light (no bling here). This is because my wife leaves work at 8pm and walks across a dark parking lot. So I need these LEDs to light up with pressing the key FOB and dim-out automatically after the door is closed.
Interesting; I would love to see some pics when you get it all set up. Do you think those things off of ebay would work?
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Unread 11-29-2005, 08:54 PM   #4
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Do you happen to know if you have the same flasher as a TJ??

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Unread 11-29-2005, 09:01 PM   #5
greasefingers
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I am thinking of buying separate LEDs and potting them in a container, with my own resistors, and wiring. This is to save money and learn more about this. The difficult part is mixing serial and parallel circuits together. I need to investigate or spend some hours reading first.
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Unread 11-29-2005, 09:11 PM   #6
JCDubya
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If you want to learn about LEDs, go here (if their sever ever gets up and running again).
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Unread 11-29-2005, 09:56 PM   #7
McGR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasefingers
I am thinking of buying separate LEDs and potting them in a container, with my own resistors, and wiring. This is to save money and learn more about this. The difficult part is mixing serial and parallel circuits together. I need to investigate or spend some hours reading first.
Coming up with a LED/resistor network for 12V should be fairly straight forward... Assuming the values you gave in your earlier post... here's what I would do:
Arrange 3 LEDs in series (3.6V *3) for a voltage drop of 10.8V.
Then you estimate your highest expected voltage ~ 14V
Take the difference = 3.2V
Calculate the required resistance: 3.2V/.03A = 106 Ohms
Calculate Power = 3.2 * .03 = .1W

So based on this scenario, I would think a 100 - 120 Ohm 1/16W would work great. You may want to parallel up as many as these networks as you need to achieve the desired light output. You could ultimately replace the individual series resistors with a single larger resistor equal to the combined parallel resistance and power of the resistors in the individual nodes. The only pitfall to this circuit would be that if the battery voltage drops below approx. 10.8V the LEDs won't illuminate. Maybe I'm telling you stuff you know already. If not I hope this helps.

Regarding LEDs in general...
While LEDs have advantages, there are some drawbacks. As noted, an LED based lamps cause problems in traditional bimetal type flashers. This is because a prescribed amount of current needs to heat up the bimetal actuator in order for it to "click". Since a replacement LED based lamp uses 10-20% the current of a traditional incandescent lamp the bimetal never gets hot - thus no click. Load resistors can be added which can solve the problem. However, you lose the efficiency advantage of the LED when you do this.

Also, most LEDs are somwhat directional as opposed to the omnidirectional standard bulb. There are various manufacturers offering different versions of LED based replacement bulbs. Some do a better job than others in emulating the original incandescent design. Many manufacturers add the disclaimer "for show or off-road purposes only" on the packaging of their LED based lamps. This is because many LED based replacement lamps currently available don't meet SAE and DOT applicable standards. So, keep this in mind if you decide to change your lamps (you don't want to set yourself up for a lawsuit).
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Unread 11-30-2005, 06:30 AM   #8
greasefingers
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McGR
Thanks for your input. I am a novice when it comes to LEDs , so I have a lot to learn.
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Unread 11-30-2005, 10:05 AM   #9
MAUSS
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This site might be useful in calculating resistors, etc for LEDs LED Calculator

I have a friend that works for a company here that makes custom LED lamps, but they mostly build units to replace AC lamps in hard-to-reach locations (built in rectifiers, etc). Their website is Wattman if anybody's interested.
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