Originally Posted by MYGrandCheroke
Ok. How hard is it to do. Also is there a write up on it?
Not hard at all. There is a writeup but I was unable to find it.
You will need:
Four jack stands
3/8" ratchet and a 10mm, 15mm and 18mm sockets and a 3" extension.
5/16" six point
box end wrench (for the drive shaft u-joint straps)
14mm box end wrench
14mm very short
(like 3" long) box end wrench
18mm box end wrench
15mm box end wrench
Regular set of pliers (for removing a spring clamp)
Flat tip screwdriver
Ultra Grey RTV silicone gasket maker
Transmission rear output shaft seal and t-case input shaft seal
A few quarts of ATF+4 to refill the transmission and the t-case if you lose any fluid
A small container of white grease
Can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner ( to remove the old fluid from the t-case exterior)
To remove the t-case you will need to jack the Jeep up and put safety stands (four of them) under it to get it up off the ground a bit. Remove the rear drive shaft completely and the front drive shaft needs to be disconnected at the t-case.
Put a jack under the end of the transmission just before the t-case and put a little pressure on it. Remove the cross member. Remove the transmission mount. Remove the exhaust hanger bracket.
Unplug the two electrical connectors to the transmission and t-case.
Remove the t-case vent hose.
Detach the 4WD shifter connection at the t-case (just lever the ball socket out of the clip).
Let the jack down slowly and let the transmission and t-case hang as low as possible.
Remove the six 14mm nuts between the transmission and t-case union. The top two nuts will be the hardest to reach (hence the short stubby wrench).
Slide the t-case off the transmission. Its bulky but not too heavy.
Clean up the t-case exterior while its off. Clean the cross member also and get all the dirt out of it.
Remove the seal at the rear of the transmission. Use the hammer and screwdriver to pull the seal out carefully. Do not scratch up the transmission shaft. Fluid will pour out (about three quarts). Once it stops draining, clean the area and dry it as best you can. Lube the seal lip and pack the inside of the seal with white grease to retain the seal lip spring. Tap the seal into place slowly using the hammer. Once it is started properly tap it flush with the opening.
On the t-case, remove the three or four 10mm bolts holding the seal housing collar in place. Clean this of any factory RTV sealer. Note its orientation as there are some passages that need to line up. Remove the old seal with the screwdriver. Again be careful not to scar the shaft.
Clean and dry the area. Install the new seal with the hammer tapping it flush with the opening.
Use the Ultra Grey sealer conservatively on the seal housing mating surface. Use just a small amount and smear the bead smooth on the mating side. Install the seal housing and tighten the 10mm bolts to spec (I don't have the spec torque value).
Reinstall the t-case to the transmission being careful not to damage the seals when you mate the shafts up.
Install everything else in revers of how you removed it.
Let her down off the stands, crank it up and let run to operating temp, put it in neutral and lock the parking brake. Check the transmission fluid. It will be low. Turn off the engine and check the t-case fluid level.
Enjoy leak free transmission and at-case seals!