Best shop manual is the original service manual. I was able to find it online in PDF form for about 7 bucks. Your results may vary. Haynes and chilton are crap, go with the original service manual.
I have been searching online, do you remember where you found it?
There are some on e-bay too, I found one that did not have the 46RH in it, only the 42. I have been crawling around under there this morning and it does not look crazy. Did you have to take the exhaust off or could you waggle everything around it?
Doing it on the ground. I have the front up on ramps and the back on jack stands. It seems like I have enough room to do everything.
I am taking the driveshafts off right now!
Thanks for the help. The transmission was working fine until it starting pumping oil out of the bellhousing. I have been looking through the parts manual and it looks like P/N 4713 049 is what I will be needing. I have not been able to cross-reference it yet but I'll keep looking.
-I found it easier to start with removing the crossmember . Unbolt the mount off the trans and the bolts for the crossmember , remove the single bolt through the mount and then you can get it off the exhaust . Couple of nut on the t-case are a little easier to get at this way , 2 bottom , 2 top . Support was given by a jack using a square plywood section , cut to the size of the pan . This also allows some lowering ability to get at the upper t-case bolts . More space the better .
-Before disconnecting the t-case , pull the plastic speed sensor out of the trans to allow the oil in the OD to drain . Better to drain it than see it on the floor . Do this again before removing the trans itself , I also drain the t-case . Also still have a drain pan between the trans and case to catch anything else , shouldn't be much .
-Fuel line is attached to the t-case and trans , make sure you get both . Other wires also attached , I cut all attaching connections and just use a few tie wraps when reinstalling to keep wires outta the way . Fuel line brackets I re-use .
-T-case outta the way , start removing the starter (I know you disconnected the battery right ?) 8mm and 13mm . The stud may or may not come out . It's a PITA cause the sheild won't come off easy with it there . Vise-grips are handy , clamp close to trans , thread will not get too damaged , the starter flange covers that area . Now you can tackle the flywheel . I always take off each bolt when I move it to where the starter was . I place a wrench on the 14mm head , give it a hammer tap , the unscrew by hand most times . Move next in same spot , repeat . By doing this , you always give access to next bolt , there are 4 .
-back to the bell housing . Lower the trans but watch out for the EGR on this year , it might be effected if too low . On the 98 , I could do this without support , the exhaust keeps it up and no contact . Not sure I'd try it on the 93-95 . OK , 4 boths looking towards the front . Use whatever extensions you got , I use about 3' worth . Straight up , no universal needed . You should have decent access .
-2 left , those are facing the rear on each side . I now position the floor jack under the trans again aloowing it to be rolled in line , front to back . Center it slight back from center . This will balance the trans great . You will need to remove the oil filter to get at the pass side bolt . When released , give a little tug to separate the 2 . Look to see if you need to raise or lower to line it up decently , then pull it out all the way . The trans can drop straight down . Once on the floor . the bell housing might still be too big to slide out . Make sure the torque converotr doesn't come off , and lift the tail end up . This lowers the height and you can pull it out .
I skipped disconnecting the lines and sensors , thats just obvious . I would mention keeping a pan under anything oil related , it will get messy if not . If you are wondering , the rear line is just squeeze both little plastic ends on the clip , and give it a tug straight out
On the later model , I was able to just let it hang . The exhaust supported it just fine and nothing at the rear of the engine iht the firewall . My advice would be to watch that area on a 94 due to the EGR system but it will support itself . You won't need it until you finally separate the trans/engine , so , it won't be in the way at all and won't hurt to support it anyways
This is the set-up I used .
I tried using a trans attachment but it just gets in the way . Getting it off the jack is clumsy to say the least , best with someone helping . Getting it back on is also not easy . Floor jacks and stands can only be raised so high safely . You won't put the trans on the jack anywhere but under the jeep . I block it up pc by pc using 4x4 and 2x4 short pcs until I can get the jack under it . I also work alone .
I pop off the linkage using a large flathead screwdriver or small pry bar . Some can be stubborn but they do just pop off . I know I pop off at the t-case , and out of the bracket on the trans , not sure about anywhere else . Take a pic before and so you have a reference on how it is suppose to look after
I was just sitting here trying to think of all the other little parts I should buy since I will have the tranny out, I will add the shifter rod seal to that. When I took the rear drive shaft off I noticed the pinion seal was leaking a little, might attack that too.
Thanks again for the help, hope to get that thing out tonight!
Might be best to use small vice grips , gonna be hard to find a match to double nut it . Kepp the vice grips close to the bell housing as possible . The starter flange is pretty thick and will cover any damages
Yeah, first attempt I guess I did not put enough *** into it. After I posted I went back out there and busted it loose. Struggling with the transfer case side of the front drive shaft. The yoke bolts just don't want to come loose, drenched them in penetrating fluid last night and I am on the verge of stripping them...