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Unread 01-16-2014, 11:52 AM   #91
bobthetj03
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Nice job on the interior upgrades! I like to find cheap/free stuff to do as well.

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Unread 01-17-2014, 08:21 AM   #92
kg6mov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Nice job on the interior upgrades! I like to find cheap/free stuff to do as well.
Thanks! It keeps me busy and keeps me distracted from the stuff the green one needs.

Polka/McCloud: I may try that, does it really make a noticeable difference? I understand the theory, but I have a hard time believing that small of a change will make a difference.
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1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 08:55 AM   #93
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kg6mov View Post
Thanks! It keeps me busy and keeps me distracted from the stuff the green one needs.

Polka/McCloud: I may try that, does it really make a noticeable difference? I understand the theory, but I have a hard time believing that small of a change will make a difference.
It's really the icing on the cake after you have an exhaust and header set up but I did notice a snappier throttle response. Nothing big.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 09:30 AM   #94
kg6mov
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1996 ZJ 
 
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PAC SWI steering wheel controls for ZJ

Brown santa delivered part one of my amazon giftcard shopping spree, actually the feds delivered it, if brown santa had done delivery himself it woulda been here a day earlier.
niner-build-3-2.jpg

One PAC SWI-RC steering wheel control interface. Smaller than I expected too. It's a little blue magic box that interprets the resistor network steering wheel controls and converts it to something my alpine (or your other brand) radio can understand. Credit where credit is due, I used this page of ejschultz's build to verify wiring. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...0/#post9293200

The SWI has a 1/8 headphone jack and a blue/yellow wire on one end to connect to the radio for control. The other side is a connector for the wiring harness which has red and black (switched power), purple and brown loops (cut for some applications), and white, blue, green, yellow, orange wires for connecting to the steering wheel controls. The red positive wire even has a fuse on it!

The only wires needed for our jeeps are power (red and black) and the green signal wire. I cut the rest of the wires short and bent them back into a piece of heatshrink to get them out of the way. Don't cut the loops, I thought about shortening them to clean things up, but didn't care enough. The blue/yellow wire isn't used for alpine radios, only the 1/8 connector. So I opened the SWI up and cut the blue wire inside the case, just to clean things up. I played with a couple of options for where I wanted to put the PAC adapter. The green wire off the harness isn't really long enough to get from the radio mount to the clockspring, the 1/8 control wire is pretty long, might be able to mount the SWI on the steering column, but then I'm not sure where I'd pull power, probably the cigarette plug. Easiest way I figured is to just put the SWI with the radio, cut up the radio harness for power.

Rip apart the dashboard (again) and pull the radio out, take the harness in to the electronics bench and open it up with a scalpel. I cut the fuse off of the SWI harness, I'd rather have clean short wires. The sucker can catch fire for all I care. Red and Black wires attached to the wiring harness for the radio. Added a nice long orange wire (first spool I grabbed out of the bin) to the green signal wire. The orange wire will get run along the factory BCM harness up to the clockspring.
niner-build-3-1.jpg

Harness with the SWI attached, I thought about desoldering and shortening the 1/8 cable, meh, lot of work, little reward, zipties are cheap.
niner-build-3-3.jpg

Here's the harness and SWI attached to the jeep, with the radio resting on the shifter in "programming mode". You need to be able to push the button on the side of the SWI during programming so don't button the thing up until you're sure you've got it setup right. While it was on the bench I also set the rotary switch on the side of the SWI to 1 for alpine, the instructions are pretty clear about which setting for which brand of radio.
niner-build-3-4.jpg

Orange wire running along the BCM harness to the clockspring. There's a lot of wires running up the column to the three connectors on the column.
niner-build-3-5.jpg

You could if you wanted cut the black/orange wire from the clockspring at that bundle of wires with the plastic hold down. Make sure it's the black/orange wire not the three orange/black wires that come from the ignition switch or the control stick harness. You could also go to the junkyard and grab a clockspring connector with a little wire left, the pins on the connector are easy to remove so you could put the jy pin in and not cut the original at all. I'm not planning on going back to the factory radio anytime soon. I did cut the wire at the connector in case I want to change back though. Grab the garage soldering iron and tack things together.
niner-build-3-6.jpg

And heatshrink.
niner-build-3-7.jpg

Here is the connector for the clockspring connected and ready to be patched up.
niner-build-3-8.jpg

Once thats done the only thing left to do is to program the PAC. The instructions aren't bad. Once you get it into programming mode (I didn't the first time I tried) it will go in order according to the sheet for each function, you program a button on the wheel by holding it. If you want to skip a function you hit the button on the SWI. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Timing is important so it might be a good idea to write out the order of what you're going to do so you can just follow along with that and not have to think. I say things out loud in cadence to keep things straight. It's easy to get flustered and confused if you don't make a plan ahead of time. For the alpine my song goes a little like this (annotations in parens):

Volume up (right side of the wheel up button as volume +)
Volume down (right side of the wheel down button as volume -)
button (skip mute function)
button (skip preset + function since I don't listen to the radio)
button (skip preset - function)
button (skip source function)
Track up (left side of the wheel up button as track +)
Track down (left side of the wheel down button as track -)
button (skip power function)
Pause (left side of the wheel middle button as Enter/Play)
done

You don't have to tell it you want to skip the last few functions, just let it time out and it will program what you gave it. Then it will just work. Test it out a little bit before you put the dashboard back together, originally I thought I wanted the center button on the left to be mute but I ended up wanting it to be Enter/Play to pause songs. Put the dashboard back together and take a drive to enjoy your new steering wheel controls. There is a slight delay but it's really not noticeable.
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 09:41 AM   #95
McCloudsZJ
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I liked the home made TB. I think it added a little something to the butt dyno. The 52mm I just picked up definitely adds something. Like Polka said, it is a nice compliment to headers an exhaust.

Thanks for the write up on steering wheel controls. I have the exact same thing still sitting in the box. Now that I have pictures to look at, I might actually get around to putting it in.
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March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9
On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint.
In the garage: M1 4bbl
In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:00 AM   #96
kg6mov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
I liked the home made TB. I think it added a little something to the butt dyno. The 52mm I just picked up definitely adds something. Like Polka said, it is a nice compliment to headers an exhaust.

Thanks for the write up on steering wheel controls. I have the exact same thing still sitting in the box. Now that I have pictures to look at, I might actually get around to putting it in.
The steering wheel controls are quick, I spent a lot of time staring at it and thinking about how I wanted to run things, but the actual install is quick.

I'm planning on a 52mm from fastman with the M1 intake when the money tree sprouts again, that I understand. Exhaust and headers once I figure out how that plays with cali emissions, hemifever tune too. I'm gunning to beat my friends stock BRZ in a straight line.
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:29 AM   #97
McCloudsZJ
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If you're even halfway serious about go-fast stuff, forget Hemifever and Fastman. They're both great people who offer ok products, but as far as we're concerned, they've all but become obsolete.

For TBs, go to Brian Whitley (1999BlkDakRT). He's a Dakota guy who's been kind enough to grace the Jeep crowd with his products. His TBs out flow and outperform Fastmans time and time again, for $100 less. His 52mm is what I have--$150 shipped to my door with an additional $15 back for sending him a core TB.

For tuning, Ryan Hogan (FlyinRyan) is the only way to go. He relies on data logging and customer specific tuning instead on canned tunes. He's retuned upwards of 50 trucks/Jeeps that were owned by people who weren't happy with Sean's tunes. He has tuned several niners that are running LOW 14's with nothing but bolt ons and injectors. He also does boosted strokers for the Dakota crowd and has 100% positive feedback. He also charges less than half what Sean does.

If you want contact info for with of them, I can PM you.

Sent from my iPhone 6 using JeepForum
__________________
March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9
On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint.
In the garage: M1 4bbl
In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
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Unread 01-17-2014, 10:57 AM   #98
PolkaPower
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I asked Ryan if he could do a 97 tune and his reply was that he could but he can make the 91 tune so efficient that it would negate and fuel savings at the pump. The data logger he recommended isn't cheap though. Neither is the handheld and tunes. I was looking at around 700 bucks.
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Unread 01-17-2014, 11:06 AM   #99
McCloudsZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I asked Ryan if he could do a 97 tune and his reply was that he could but he can make the 91 tune so efficient that it would negate and fuel savings at the pump. The data logger isn't cheap though. Neither is the handheld and tunes. I was looking at around 700 bucks.
His services are a little more affordable if you're willing to dig around and piece some of the stuff together yourself.

He has SCT Xcal. 3's for $500 with unlimited custom N/A tuning. the X3 has internal datalogging, so the only thing left that you're on the hook for is the wideband sensor.

If you decide to go with the X2 handheld, he has those at a huge discount because he's trying to get rid of them. There is also a batch on eBay selling for $150 each. If you get an X2, you still need the wideband and datalogger. The LC1/OT2 is pretty readilly available. Every once in a while, they pop up on eBay together for $170.

So your options are:
Get the X2 for $150, the LC1/OT2 yourself for $170, and tuning from Ryan for $200 (I think). Total of $520.

Get the wideband on your own for less than $100, and get the X2 and unlimited tunes from Ryan for $300 (I think--it's been a while since I asked). Total of $400.

Get the wideband on your own for less than $100, and get the X3 and unlimited tunes from Ryan for $500. Total of $600.

Or, go to Hemifever who charges $1,000 for an X2 and a limit of three canned tunes. No data logger. No custom tunes to buy. Total of $1,000.
__________________
March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9
On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint.
In the garage: M1 4bbl
In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
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Unread 01-17-2014, 11:15 AM   #100
PolkaPower
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Yea no way I would go with canned tunes. Especially if you have any mods. Ryan is the only guy I would go to for a tune at this point.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 02:31 AM   #101
kg6mov
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Plenum gasket repair

So with oil in my intake and much too much time on my hands I figured I’d have a go at replacing the intake plenum gasket. Found the felpro intake manifold gasket set on amazon, also grabbed a 180 degree t-stat and its gasket and a throttle body gasket while I was at it. Shipped to my door for $0 shekels out of my pocket, still living large on that gift card. So after not so very long I have a parts pile again, and it looks like this.
intake-cleanup-1.jpg

For those not familiar, the intake manifold (kegger) on the V8 magnum engines (5.2 and 5.9 liter V8 zj’s) has a bit of a design flaw. The intake itself is aluminum, but the bottom plate (plenum) separating the intake from the lifter valley full of oil is steel. Different metals expand and contract differently due to heat and the end result is that the gasket on the plenum pan fails and oil gets into the intake. This of course causes all manner of nastiness including burning oil, clogging the cat, general poor performance, and a host of other fun things. There are many threads on the subject, and there are three (that I’m aware of) solutions. Solution 1 is to replace the kegger intake with a different intake that does not use a plenum pan, such as the MOPAR M1 intake. The design of the M1 is closer to the intake design of the LA V8 that our magnum design is descended from. But the M1 that works with our jeeps is about $600. Solution 2 is to replace the steel plenum pan with an aluminum one, either from hughes engines or an ebay vendor. This eliminates the different metals problem; plates range from $60 for an ebay plate to $120 for the overpriced hughes kit. The third option is to simply replace the failed gasket, and if it should fail again, replace it again. This is obviously the cheapest immediate option. Supposedly MOPAR changed the gasket design in the later magnums to stop them from blowing out and almost completely eliminated the problem. I’ve no way of confirming that. All three options require you take the intake off. The latter two require disassembly of the kegger.

Ima say this now, this is a large undertaking and not for the faint of heart. I consider myself rather mechanically savvy, but this nearly got the better of me. It’s not so much that the job itself is difficult, it boils down to a pretty simple job, but there are so many other things that can go wrong around it that it can add up. It’s also the sort of thing that once you get into it, you’re rather committed to having a dead jeep in your garage until you finish the job. Overall this took me about two days, and I didn’t even run into some of the snags people usually hit. I would not recommend attempting this without a copy of the FSM on hand.

Another quick note for those who haven’t read the whole thing, my engine is not the stock jeep engine, it’s a transplant from a dodge something or other, as such it looks a little different from how a jeep 5.9 should, mostly things being on the wrong side.

Anyway, on to the fun. First thing is just prep. Three things go into the intake: gas, coolant, and air. We would be wise to remove the first two before we begin or they will get all over the floor. The floor in my garage was already covered with the third, so I didn’t worry. Gas is easy. You can either remove the fuel pump relay and try to start the engine, or you can press down on the valve on the fuel rail with a rag, and get a gas soaked rag. I chose the first option. At this point it’s a good time to unlock the doors, roll down or up any windows you might want and then disconnect the battery. You do not want to be doing something this complex with the battery connected. Next task is coolant. We need to partially drain the system so we don’t get coolant everywhere when we pull the upper radiator, bypass, and heater hoses that connect to the intake. If you have the factory skid now is the time to remove it.
intake-cleanup-2.jpg

On my niner that is a really good candidate for not going back on. Partial draining of the coolant system is very simple as per the FSM.

(but first) WARNING: When draining the system the engine (and coolant) needs to be COLD, if you just got in from the parts store with goodies you need to wait. No, really, it needs to be cold, not coolish, not “I can touch it and not get burned”, cold. If it isn’t cold then go inside and make a sandwich or draft your apology letter for the mess you are about to make in the garage. Got it?

As per the FSM, remove radiator cap, locate the radiator draincock (left/lower side on the back of the radiator), attach hose to the draincock, place other end of the hose in a container, loosen draincock and drain coolant. Sounds brilliant, simple clean solution.

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

As is par for the course almost nothing went through the hose to the bottle, instead it went on the floor.
intake-cleanup-3.jpg

Not sure why, really don’t care at the moment. Coolant is drained, moving on.
intake-cleanup-4.jpg

Here we have the engine of my niner. I’ve already removed the plastic air hat and tube cause they are righteously simple and I’ve removed the alternator for another experiment. Before we can get to the intake we need to remove the ac compressor, accessory bracket, power steering pump, and all the hoses and electrical running to the intake.

Four bolts on top of the compressor hold it to the bracket. There is enough flex in the hoses on the compressor to set it on the radiator while you work. You really don’t want to deal with discharging and then having to recharge the AC system in order to remove the compressor completely. The power steering pump is removed by three bolts that can be accessed through the pulley. It also can be left connected, it doesn’t need to go far it just blocks two accessory bracket bolts. Here are both in their temporary positions.
intake-cleanup-5.jpg

You’ll note I’ve also at this point removed the throttle body. I disconnected the three cables (tv, cruise, accelerator pedal) going to the throttle body to get them out of the way. It’s not strictly necessary to remove the whole throttle body, you could just disconnect it, but the throttle body holes in the kegger are about the only handle you’re going to get.

Next up is the accessory bracket. It is held on by 7? bolts. One of them is hiding behind the idler pulley, bit of an annoyance. There are two behind where the power steering pulley should be. One is easy, the other is not.
intake-cleanup-6.jpg

That bolt, hiding behind the hardline from the water pump to the heater core, was a HUGE pain in the ***. There was no way to get a socket on it with the hardline there. The hardline is of course silicone sealed in place, probably my mechanic or the people that sold him the engine to thank for that one. Far too long swearing at it and a crescent wrench later and it’s off. With all the bolts out the bracket just lifts away.
intake-cleanup-7.jpg

Not completely horrid looking, water pump doesn’t appear to be leaking. Can’t say the same for the thermostat housing and the heater hose on the intake.
intake-cleanup-8.jpg

Pulled the thermostat housing because I couldn’t get the upper hose off. Little bit of coolant that was in the hose now on the engine. Another surprise, no thermostat housing gasket, just red RTV.
intake-cleanup-9.jpg

Ick, and the rest of the housing was rusting. Added it and my upper hose to the buy new list.
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-25-2014, 02:34 AM   #102
kg6mov
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Now is a good time to clear the wiring harnesses out of the way. Most of the connectors are pretty easy to remember or self explanatory so I didn’t feel a need to label them. I did label the injector connectors; you don’t want to get them in the wrong order.
intake-cleanup-10.jpg

Fuel rail with the harness removed.
intake-cleanup-11.jpg

You can then remove the fuel rails together with the injectors and set them to the side still connected. Just remove the two bolts on each rail and then carefully pull the injectors out of their ports.
intake-cleanup-12.jpg

Back to hose removal, the heater core hose wasn’t going to go quietly. After a short fight it did this.
intake-cleanup-13.jpg

Earning itself a place on the buy replacements list.
intake-cleanup-14.jpg

Almost everything removed. The evap line in this picture isn’t attached, it just appears to be. Last thing left was the bypass hose.
intake-cleanup-15.jpg

Which was also rotten and ended up getting the spyderco treatment.

That brings us to these buggers.
intake-cleanup-16.jpg

There are twelve of these bolts holding the intake to the engine. I actually had 12, unlike some people, and they are notorious for breaking off. The stock ones are special magic TTY or torque to yield bolts, which are single use. My bolts were not stock; they appear to be normal grade 8 bolts. If you get them off without breaking one in the block you get bonus points. In an unexpected twist I actually got bonus points!
intake-cleanup-17.jpg

Bolts in order back to front, driver side on the right. The first and last bolts are the ones closest to the coolant channel, I assume that’s why they rusted.
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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Unread 01-25-2014, 02:37 AM   #103
kg6mov
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So now we can carefully remove the intake manifold and set it down. The underside of mine looked like this.
intake-cleanup-18.jpg

And the lifter valley can now be seen.
intake-cleanup-19.jpg

Whoever was in the engine last seems to have liked red RTV, as it was all over the place. Here is a close up of it between the flange gasket and the front crossover gasket.
intake-cleanup-20.jpg

And more at the rear.
intake-cleanup-21.jpg

A little surprise, this was hiding under all the heater hoses and injector harness. Another gift from the engine PO?
intake-cleanup-22.jpg

I covered the lifter valley with brand new clean shop towels to catch crud that might try to fall in. Even so you want to plan on doing an oil change soon after just in case.
intake-cleanup-23.jpg

The plenum gasket looked a lot better than I thought, and despite the pan having a thin even coating of oil residue, there wasn’t much oil in the intake.
intake-cleanup-24.jpg

I set the intake down on some towels on the bench and got to work cleaning things up. I took a wire brush and brake cleaner to most of the intake to clean the crud off the outside. A razor blade got rid of most of the RTV. Make sure you clean out the injector ports really well.
intake-cleanup-25.jpg

The thermostat felt pretty near glued in from the dried coolant crust around it and had to be pried out with a screwdriver.
intake-cleanup-26.jpg

Parts run in the cooper for new upper radiator, bypass, and heater hoses, and a thermostat housing. All in stock from the green mafia.
intake-cleanup-27.jpg
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-25-2014, 02:41 AM   #104
kg6mov
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I removed the coolant temp sensor and heater core hose fitting to clean their mounting areas and reseal them with teflon tape.
intake-cleanup-28.jpg

Intake air temp sensor as well, just for fun.
intake-cleanup-29.jpg

Starting to reassemble the intake.
intake-cleanup-30.jpg

New 180 Stant thermostat goes in, real felpro gasket as well. The 180 t-stat is supposed to make the engine run a little cooler and a little more efficiently.
intake-cleanup-31.jpg

Housing gets installed with the tab toward the front of the engine. FSM says that it’s slightly angled for clearance.
intake-cleanup-32.jpg

Test fitting the new throttle body gasket. If you haven’t now would be a good time to clean the IAC and throttle body.
intake-cleanup-33.jpg

This is the plenum pan after I removed the layer of crud with brake cleaner and a rag. The darkened area around the bolt hole is where the oil was leaking into the intake. The heated oil creates a varnish effect on the metal where it has been squeezed through.
intake-cleanup-34.jpg

With one bolt installed you can see that the plenum pan has warped from the heat of the engine. This is quite a bit of warp, but I’m hoping the gasket will last for a while. At this point, if I had had the time I would have just bitten the bullet on an aluminum plate, but I had to get the engine back together.
intake-cleanup-35.jpg

Test fitting the new gasket on the underside of the intake. The inside had been cleaned with brake cleaner.
intake-cleanup-36.jpg

The process in the FSM for tightening the bolt on the plenum pan is rather complex. It has a specific order and torques in intervals from 24 in. lbs. to 48 in. lbs. to 84 in. lbs. At the very least you should follow the order in the FSM using a good inch pound torque wrench (I had to buy one). You’re going to need it again for the next bit anyway; just get one if you haven’t already. I did go through the whole process from the FSM just to be safe.
intake-cleanup-38.jpg
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

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Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-25-2014, 02:44 AM   #105
kg6mov
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Now we come back to the engine. Make sure you’ve got all the bits of old gasket off the mating surfaces to prepare. Now would be a really easy time to change the cap and rotor as well if you need it.
intake-cleanup-39.jpg

Here’s the intake bolted up and ready to go back in.
intake-cleanup-40.jpg

Lay the new flange gaskets into position. The FSM states that the words “Manifold Side” should be visible when you do this. My felpro gaskets don’t have “manifold side” printed on them, they just have felpro and the part number. My assumption is that the writing should be towards the intake manifold. They should position themselves horizontally with tabs that mesh with tabs in the cylinder head gasket. Next lay the crossover gaskets in place. This should be really self explanatory and they will position themselves with dowel pins into the block.
intake-cleanup-41.jpg

Close up and the crossover gaskets look like they will make a really good seal with the flange gaskets when the intake is bolted on. Really don’t understand why somebody felt RTV was necessary here.
intake-cleanup-42.jpg

Remove the towel from the lifter valley and inspect the area with a flashlight for any little bits that may have fallen in.
intake-cleanup-43.jpg

And pray that none of the pools look like this.
intake-cleanup-44.jpg

The cracked heater hose leaked just enough coolant into the valley to soak through the rag while I was working and mix with the oil. Dab it out with a rag and bump oil change up on the priority list.

Now it is time to lower the intake back into place. You want to do this with the throttle body removed so you have something to hold onto. I’ve read people putting one foot on the bumper and another on the cowl, other silly things like that. A friend would be a good idea. I didn’t do anything really special just was careful as I lowered it in. The FSM says to put in the four center bolts to position the intake.
intake-cleanup-45.jpg

These bolts were not reinstalled, I got a few more grade 8 5/16 2” bolts to replace them.
intake-cleanup-47.jpg

The FSM again has a specific procedure for torquing down the intake bolts. While this is probably more important if using the special torque to yield bolts I wasn’t really interested in taking the chance. The procedure boils down to tighten the center four bolts to 72 in. lbs. in increments of 12 in lbs. using the pattern in the book, tighten the other 8 bolts to 72 in. lbs. again in the book order, check them (center four will probably be loose), tighten all in order to 12 ft. lbs. When it’s all done it looks like this.
intake-cleanup-48.jpg
__________________
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 31's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, New engine and trans, no front driveshaft, but it's pretty

"Whats wrong with a PT Cruiser?"
"Coulda had a V8!"

96 build thread

Niner build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
kg6mov is offline   Reply With Quote
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