I got a '93 Jeep Grand Cheroke 4.0L I6 4WD just last week sunday. I love the jeep and it's running in great condition except for the leaking oil which i found out from here with SEARCH that it's pretty normal, though I don't know where it's comming from, it's just the tranny area and the oil pan is wet with oil and it only leaks after it's running, the leak will stop after a while when the car has been parked already. The 4WD was used around twice since the previous owner said he never went anywhere that needs its use, only a couple of trips to lake tahoe a long time ago. I just love my new "used" jeep so I want to give it a maintainance job. Now before I go down and dirty and try to fix the oil leak problem I want to do a maintainance on the rest of the areas that needs fluid first then the wires then the oil leak since i don't know yet where the area of the leak is. So can experts give this jeep newbie an advice concerning:
For this comming weekend.....
1. AXLE/Differential: Does it need gaskets? Oil is 75W-90/80W-90 right? 2 qts. each diff.
2. Transfer Case: Dexron II/ATF+...just empty and refill right?2 qrts.
3.(OPTIONAL) Gear Lube or Some lube thing where I need to get a "gun" and put it on some parts and shoot the gun thing.....I forgot, I read it in the chilton repair manual thing.
How long will all of this take? like the whole day?
For the next comming weekend:
1. Tranny Fluid change: Would I need gaskets for this one? what kind of tranny filter should I use? This is the only vehicle that I have that's an automatic. The oil is DexronIIE/Mercon or ATF right? 4 qrts.
2. Flush Radiator.
For the weekend after that:
1. Look for the oil leak and find a way to fix it, or have a mechanic fix it....and change oil....
Change some/most of it's vaccum hoses and old hoses.
Pls. Give the newbie some advice concerning other maintainance practices, I love my jeep and want to have it running well. Thanks.
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 I6
1994 Geo Metro 3 banger
2001 Eclipse GT V6
Congratulations on your new adquisition ! The oil leak is not so much important, it's a very normal issue with these kind of SUV, if yours is leaking a little, just learn to live with the leak, but if it's leaking so much, you better get the job done by a mechanic. My '95 with same motor as yours is doing the same (leaking oil) but nothing to take prompt action, so I just used a BAR'S STOP LEAK (Wal-mart) and the leak is going off little by little, so you can give it a try first and then make a correct decision.
Hope this helps a little buddy !
[COLOR=Navy][FONT=Tahoma]'03 Jeep Wrangler X Auto I6 4.0L, 3.5" RE Super Flex, 1" PA BL, M.O.R.E. 1" MML, 33x12.5x15 MT/R's, JKS Quick Discos, RE Front Adjustable Trackbar, Skyjacker Hydro7000 Shocks, OEM RUBICON Rocker Guards, WARN Steering Skidplate, Front Mopar Tow Hooks, Bushwacker 6" Extended Fender Flares, K&N drop-in air filter, Chicago Electric Winch, SS light bar with 4 Hella 500 Driving Lights, and stock no more ![/COLOR] [COLOR=Red][URL=http://www.teamlaredo4x4.com]Visit TeamLaredo4x4.com[/URL] [/COLOR][/FONT]
Front AND Rear axles:
No gaskets needed, just take the cover off, wipe the differential housing out real well, clean the differential cover thoroughly, removing all old RTV gasket material. Make sure the mating surfaces of the cover and the housing are clean and dry. Use good MOPAR or Permatex or other good brand RTV sealant around the edges of the cover. Follow the instructions on the RTV. I refill with Mobil-1 Synthetic gear lube. Don't neglect the front axle -- get it done also. (Different fluid requirements for a limited-slip differential, but I assume you have the standard axles.)
Grease all fittings annually
Note that the 1993 Cherokee was the *only* year that the automatic transmission was an Aisin-Warner AW4 automatic transmission. All later years used Chrysler transmissions. Your AW4 trasmission actually needs no adjustments (not like our Chrysler trasmissions where we're supposed to adjust the bands, etc.)
No gaskets needed -- RTV again. You can use gaskets but Chrysler doesn't at the factory and I find better results with just a good application of RTV on clean dry surfaces. Just get a proper filter from your typical auto parts store.
All of us Chrysler/Jeep guys know about transmissions being picky about transmission fluid. Many mechanics will tell you that the Dexron-Mercon fluid works in EVERYthing. Not true. Transmissions need particular mixtures of friction modifiers -- Mercon is actually too slippery and causes clutch shuddering and other problems, unless it's specifically recommended. I'm pretty sure your AW-4 transmission was specified for ATF-7176, so I *strongly* urge you to make sure you get what's recommended in your manual. If ATF-7176 is specified, then ATF+3 or ATF+4 would be fine since they're newer generations of that same fluid spec and would be fine. Fluid should be changed every few years -- annually if you are towing.
Make sure you use 50/50 or similar mixture of fluid. (Sorry, but it's amazing how many people don't know that.) This should be done every 2 or 3 years.
Stuff a clean rag down in the power steering tank to draw up as much of that old brown/black fluid as you can. Refill with fresh fluid, crank the engine, turn the steering wheel back and forth a few times to circulate some more old fluid into the tank, then repeat the procedure of getting the old fluid out and refilling with fresh fluid. Your power steering pump will love you forever. This should be done every 2 years.
Drain and flush all four channels independently. No special tools needed. First use a rag to draw all the old fluid out of the reservoir until nearly dry, then refill with new clear fluid (DOT3/4/5).
I use a clear mason jar with clear plastic tubes (the sort that air horns use) to collect the old fluid. One end of the tube goes in the jar, the other end goes to the bleed screw on the caliper. Have an assistant press and HOLD the brake pedal for you while you slowly release the bleed screw with a small wrench (5/16" I think?). Old brown/black brake fluid will squirt through the tube into the jar while the brake pedal is pushed all the way to the floor.
Your assistant must NOT release the pedal until you say so or air will be drawn into the system via the bleed screw. Tighten the bleed screw, THEN tell your assistant to release the pedal from the floor. That brake channel will draw new replacement fluid from the reservoir.
REPEAT this procedure on that same brake channel until the fluid coming out looks clear like new fluid. Will take probably up to TEN brake presses per wheel to clear that entire brake channel of contaminants.
Your assistant must frequently MAKE SURE sure the reservoir stays FULL at all times during the procedure (if it goes empty you'll draw air into the system and have to start over)!
Then go to the next wheel and start anew.
Brake flushing should be done annually!
Cape Canaveral, Florida
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.7L
2005 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L
About putting in PIAA headlights - I wouldn't recommend it. Last week I spent $85 for the PIAA Xtreme white ones. They SUCKED . The lit the road worse, and were only the slightest bit white. IMO fogs would be a better investment. Speaking of foglights, can anyone recommend some good ones, preferably under $150? I was thinking the Hella Freeform ones. Thanks.
'93 ZJ- 4.5" Rubicon lift w/ Doetsch Tech shocks - 33" BFG M/Ts - Dana axles - Lock Right locker - Detroit Truetrac - 4.11 gears - K&N Filtercharger - 150watt KC's - Alpine head unit w/10in sub