[nierace]

Originally Posted by 10achik

What could she say, I got a little money from selling my Dad's place in TN after he passed. The way I figure it, I would rather have him here, but he liked wheeling with me so much that he wouldn't mind me using it to fix the heep.

What size tires are you gonna run, or just stickin with the 33's ?

Should be a pretty sweet setup I do like the high clearance LCA brackets a bit.

[BlaineWasHere]

Originally Posted by 10achik

What could she say, I got a little money from selling my Dad's place in TN after he passed. The way I figure it, I would rather have him here, but he liked wheeling with me so much that he wouldn't mind me using it to fix the heep.

I'm sure he would rather you spend that money on something fun anyway. After all you only live once.

[ArloGuthroJeep]

Originally Posted by Sporer65

But with FSJ 44s, you lose your ABS while with the JK 44s, you can keep it. Also, correct me if I'm wrong though, but did you lose your speedo too or is that only with the rear?

But I agree, the D44a is a strong axle, just take care of the diff.

You only keep ABS with the JK axle if you swap the rear axle to be a JK axle as well. The JK and WJ axles have different number of teeth on the tone rings.

[5.9 ANDY]

Originally Posted by Sporer65

TJs and ZJs share the same front suspension, so their axles are interchangable. Here is a link to just a few axles you can buy:

http://www.4wheelparts.com/PPT6439T100714.aspx

TJs have the same exact axle as a ZJ, no strengh gain what so ever....

now, if you get an XJ 30.... that is better.

[ArloGuthroJeep]

Originally Posted by 5.9 ANDY

TJs have the same exact axle as a ZJ, no strengh gain what so ever....

now, if you get an XJ 30.... that is better.

He is talking about buying aftermarket axles, designed to fit a TJ, and then just using them in a ZJ. Such as an aftermarket D44 front for a TJ and swapping it into a ZJ

[Iron_Rock]

Hello Jeepforum peeps,
We're glad to see you guys so excited about this JK axle swap! We're also very excited to offer this kit. We did a lot of reasearch and these JK Dana 44's just could not be beat for reliability and cost-effectiveness.
I do, however, want to correct some misinformation about this swap:
Misinformation: "the front uses dana 30 outers"
Fact: These axles use 32 spline captive unit bearings. Stock WJ is 27 spline non-captive. Captive means you can drive home even without an axle shaft in place (of course you'll need to plug the differential side so the oil doens't leak out).
Misinformation: "unit bearings are not good"
Fact: Unit bearings simply work great. Maintenance free and ridiculously easy to work on. Proven to hold up very well to 37" and larger tires. Have you ever had to take apart greasy conventional hubs on the side of a muddy or sandy trail - it's not fun!
Misinformation: "cost of the brackets is too high"
Fact: The front end alone takes 8 hours of labor to remove the old brackets and install the new ones, then clean and paint. The front axle for $3199 comes with over 92 parts. That number does not include the axle itself, or any bolts, nuts, wiring, or hardware. We have over 400 engineering hours into this kit!!!!! Here's just some of the parts that needed to be addressed: Steering (WJ tie rod and drag link are too short and the wrong tie rod end taper), track bar, spring perches, UCA mounts, sway bar link mounts, The LCA mounts could work but they are very weak and hang down very low, I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting.
Misinformation: "the front spring perches are re-used"
Fact: The front and rear spring perches are moved to ideal locations. We even moved the front ones out a little bit to eliminate the stock WJ spring to unibody interference under extreme flex. We're pretty sure we thought of everything.
Misinformation: "the axle tubes are weak"
Fact: The front tube is the same 2.5" diameter, but thicker wall. The most important fact is that we run a truss from "C" to "C". The ball Joint C's are the weakest link and we make them virtually indestructible. The tube size is simply irrelevant with our truss. The Rear uses a huge housing with very large 3.18" tubes. This rear end is almost indestructible in stock form and we make it stronger with trussing.
Misinformation: "The rear costs $3000"
Fact: The entire rear kit is priced at $2299.99. You won't find a better deal. There is no need for anything stronger and you can't even come close to equal strength for equal price anywhere else. That even includes lower control arms.
Misinformation: "You may have ABS or speedometer issues"
Fact: Your ABS will work properly even with just the rear or just the front JK axle (we have tested this). Your speedometer will continue to work, but will need re-calibration due to the gear ratio change.

A couple more notes:
The front uses 1350 U-Joints that are much stronger than any other Dana 44. That is usually the weakest link.
The rear uses a ring gear that is 10mm larger than standard Dana 44. Add a beefy housing, large tubes, and huge 32 spline axle shafts and this thing will never fail you.
These axles are the latest and greatest offerings from Dana. They have been upgraded based on countless years of real world experience.

Please feel free to call with any questions you have!
Happy wheelin!
Thanks,
Jason
Iron Rock Off Road
952-210-7185

[AgitatedPancake]

Hey Iron rock nice to see you on the forums, if you put only a front axle in how does the speedo/abs compensate for the two different speeds its receiving from the two different tooth counts on the tone rings?

[BlaineWasHere]

Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake

Hey Iron rock nice to see you on the forums, if you put only a front axle in how does the speedo/abs compensate for the two different speeds its receiving from the two different tooth counts on the tone rings?

It only runs off the rear tone ring. So speedo would be fine... ABS would however not work well if at all.

[AgitatedPancake]

I knew it ran off the rears but I didnt know if the fronts were getting a different signal if it would screw up the computer.

[tennesseewj]

Originally Posted by BlaineWasHere

ABS would however not work well if at all.

Originally Posted by Iron_Rock

Misinformation: "You may have ABS or speedometer issues"
Fact: Your ABS will work properly even with just the rear or just the front JK axle (we have tested this). Your speedometer will continue to work, but will need re-calibration due to the gear ratio change.


Please feel free to call with any questions you have!
Happy wheelin!
Thanks,
Jason
Iron Rock Off Road
952-210-7185

They disagree, although I'm not sure how it doesn't 'cause ABS problems

[nierace]

Hey Jason -

Due to JF policy you can't discuss pricing on here or pimp your products because you aren't a vendor, however, you should become a vendor so Arlo doesn't edit my responses and I can ask a question about regearing

Thanks
Nick

[ArloGuthroJeep]

I'll respectfully disagree for now, IRO, please explain in engineering terms how it doesn't constantly think it is slipping during braking if you have a different number of teeth on the F&R tone rings? I don't remember the exact numbers, but I recall the JK tone ring having more (~52 teeth) and I just counted the WJ has 48 teeth.

[GibsJeep]

Looks like IRO has put in a lot of work and man hours into these axle swaps.

[Iron_Rock]

Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep

I'll respectfully disagree for now, IRO, please explain in engineering terms how it doesn't constantly think it is slipping during braking if you have a different number of teeth on the F&R tone rings? I don't remember the exact numbers, but I recall the JK tone ring having more (~52 teeth) and I just counted the WJ has 48 teeth.

This looks like a good explaination from howstuffworks.com:
I'm no ABS expert, but I know when we tested the front JK axle with the rear WJ axle it worked just fine. It looks like the system never compares the tires to each other, but only looks at the rate of deceleration on each individual tire.

Thanks,
Jason

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/anti-lock-brake1.htm

The controller monitors the speed sensors at all times. It is looking for decelerations in the wheel that are out of the ordinary. Right before a wheel locks up, it will experience a rapid deceleration. If left unchecked, the wheel would stop much more quickly than any car could. It might take a car five seconds to stop from 60 mph (96.6 kph) under ideal conditions, but a wheel that locks up could stop spinning in less than a second.

The ABS controller knows that such a rapid deceleration is impossible, so it reduces the pressure to that brake until it sees an acceleration, then it increases the pressure until it sees the deceleration again. It can do this very quickly, before the tire can actually significantly change speed. The result is that the tire slows down at the same rate as the car, with the brakes keeping the tires very near the point at which they will start to lock up. This gives the system maximum braking power.

[Iron_Rock]

Originally Posted by nierace

Hey Jason -

Due to JF policy you can't discuss pricing on here or pimp your products because you aren't a vendor, however, you should become a vendor so Arlo doesn't edit my responses and I can ask a question about regearing

Thanks
Nick

Okay, We just re-upped as a vendor (I guess it just expired), so we're cool to talk about pricing, right?

4.56 gears would add $550.00 front and $550.00 rear. I know that's a lot, but the axles come with 4.10's installed so we have to pull them out and replace them.

Shipping to CT would be roughly $300.

Thanks,
Jason