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Unread 09-30-2005, 06:18 AM   #1
njrealtor55
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Jason's Sliders - Picture heavy

ok, so I am not a slacker after all. started the sliders. used branman's general layout. I started welding, and wasn't getting the desired result and couldn't figure out why.

After phil left when I was almost done with the 1 rail, my father in law comes to take a look and sees the issue.... the welder is on low. DUH had to go over every weld again with it on high. oh well, just more grinding to do. I plan on finishing the other rail after work - then getting them on the jeep saturday or sunday





a little short, but will still do the job. should have been 69" at least - but 68" will be ok..




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Unread 09-30-2005, 06:20 AM   #2
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got tired of bending over must be gettin old


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Unread 09-30-2005, 06:21 AM   #3
njrealtor55
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EVEN LET GOOD OLD PHIL GIVE IT A SHOT




cutting metal the "quiet way"... i love that little band saw!!!
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Unread 09-30-2005, 06:23 AM   #4
njrealtor55
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HORRIBLE WELDS - LOW HEAT SETTING


BETTER WELDS - STILL NOT PRETTY BUT FUNCTIONAL


NASTY LOOKING BUT BEEFY WELDS
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Unread 09-30-2005, 06:35 AM   #5
Woody
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Very nice, now slap a coat of paint on them and test them out.
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Unread 09-30-2005, 07:02 AM   #6
guango88
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Very nice Jason

Like how many hrs of labor and how are you going to attach them?
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Unread 09-30-2005, 07:10 AM   #7
njrealtor55
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so far about 3.5 hrs. and that includes pulling the welder and all tools out.

that one in the pic is done except for final grinding to look good (grinding is not necessary technically). Just need 2x2 square tube to go back to the frame rails and weld them on. then that is it for 1 side.

the reason it took 3.5 hrs is the low heat setting. with the welder on the right temp, the welds go 2-3 times faster. i plan on being able to do the other side after work in about 1.5 hrs with much better results than the one in the pics.

i have some angle in the 2nds pic that i will use to go on the frame and it will all be welded - no bolts. it is just easier to weld to the frame than bolt - i'm lazy.

also need to get some strips of metal (1/8" thick) to weld the rail to the pinch seam for added stability
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Unread 09-30-2005, 07:26 AM   #8
guango88
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you know that you have to post pictures from underneed too

(when you are done)
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Unread 09-30-2005, 07:42 AM   #9
njrealtor55
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ok, i also plan on doing kevins SLIDER ACID TEST - jacking the jeep all the way up with the hi-lift.

i'll post pics of that too - especially if it fails. i doubt it will 1/4" thick steel is damn strong.
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Unread 09-30-2005, 08:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njrealtor55
HORRIBLE WELDS - LOW HEAT SETTING

should have cut those at 22.5 angle not 45.....anyway they look good you may need to POR-15 them. That 2x3 looks pretty bad/rusty.
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Unread 09-30-2005, 09:05 AM   #11
njrealtor55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by branman444
should have cut those at 22.5 angle not 45.....anyway they look good you may need to POR-15 them. That 2x3 looks pretty bad/rusty.
yeah, but then the top tube would have to been cut at 22deg also and that is too much cutting for my unaccurate methods. if i had my buddies chop saw with the angle gauge on it, then yes.

i am just gonna fill the space on the 2x2 on that corner with weld. no big deal. like phil termed the project.... the is a FUNCTIONAL PROJECT, not a good looking one. as long as it works, I'm ok with it - i do not plan on showing my jeep. but yes you are right - it would look better.. but oh well.

yeah they must have been stored outside at the metal shop. i'll hit them with a wire wheel and then paint them up.

i do not plan on using POR-15 as it is not readily available. i plan on getting as much of the rust off with grinder/wire wheel and then using standard rust converter & black paint or just undercoating them.

i like the texture look of the undercoating better than the std black paint everyone uses. i am pretty sure i am gonna undercoat them rather than paint them black.
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Unread 09-30-2005, 09:10 AM   #12
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hope you ground some of that surface rust off of there before trying to weld to it. I also 2nd the 22.5* angle. (or if you have friends use round tube and just bend it ) How are you going to attach them to the heep?

my welds = not too terribly better

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Unread 09-30-2005, 09:41 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by njrealtor55
i do not plan on using POR-15 as it is not readily available. i plan on getting as much of the rust off with grinder/wire wheel and then using standard rust converter & black paint or just undercoating them.

i like the texture look of the undercoating better than the std black paint everyone uses. i am pretty sure i am gonna undercoat them rather than paint them black.

Under coating where do you plan on getting this......?
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Unread 09-30-2005, 09:53 AM   #14
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we have some undercoating in a spray can in our shop. not sure where my father in law finds anything he keeps in the shop, but i know we have at least 1 big can.

how hard would it be to cut the outer rail to 22deg with it still on there? guess i'd have to use a cut off wheel and do it by hand. would it be worth it?

i had no prob with the 45deg cuts - but after you guys pointing it out and knowing the angle pieces are not too much $$, it is eating me to cut them out and do it the cleaner way - on the rail that is done..

i'll do it the correct way on the next rail.
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Unread 09-30-2005, 10:41 AM   #15
branman444
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Thats going to be kinda tuff on the one that is already done. You could take a small scrap of tube and cut it to match the open area and then weld that in place. I think that would be better than trying to fill it with weld. That could take some time and will prob just make you mad at your welder for cutting it our bigger. I cut all my angles first and welded them in before i put the center brace on.
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