IRO lift - few q's (yes read faq's/search) -
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-17-2009, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sask, Canada
Posts: 3
IRO lift - few q's (yes read faq's/search)

Hey! I guess since this is technically my first post, I should try and not look like a newb/retard etc. Bit of background, my 98 Zj is my first 4x4 vehicle. I've always been into cars, never really suv/truck type vehicles. I build and install custom car audio for a living at a local chain up here (Visions for any western Canadians) with 5 years in the biz. I found my Zj in an insurance company "write off" yard actually, being a victim of vandalization which apparently was too much ($$) to fix, so I jumped on it for $2500. Took a few weeks, but I repaired all the damage, and was left with a bone stock jeep, in remarkably good shape.

So... I've decided to put a lift and some bigger tires on this thing, and have some fun with it this summer. I've read through pages upon pages of the forum, looked at a ton of the vehicles on here that are already lifted, and decided to go with the Iron Rock 4.5" kit. I have opted for the kit that comes with control arms, but this is where my first question comes in. Is it worth the $160 to get the adjustable arms? Its really not a TON of money, but If its not going to benefit me, (still be used as a daily driver mostly) I'll put the money to something more beneficial.

Secondly, I would like to run 33x12.5 tires, and it seems that there are some with that size tire, but not a lot is mentioned other than there is trimming/bumper removal going on. Any other issues to look out for/reasons to go smaller?

And third, I want to know what else I should be looking at to keep this setup safe and "reliable". The kit comes with relocation mounts for brake lines, but I'm wondering if I need to spring for longer lines right away.

Any input, good or bad is appreciated. I certainly don't want to do this wrong, or be the guy that "stacks 3 sets of bb's and shoots springs at kids"

Thanks guys.

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post #2 of 5 Old 03-17-2009, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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1998 ZJ 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sask, Canada
Posts: 3
I guess its helpful to add that I have the 5.2L and full time 4x4 (249?) t-case.
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post #3 of 5 Old 03-17-2009, 07:46 PM
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1993 ZJ 
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Location: gigharbor washington
Posts: 22
Yes, defiantly go with adjustable CA's
and im pretty sure you have to re gear for 33'' but i could be wrong.
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post #4 of 5 Old 03-17-2009, 08:33 PM
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1997 ZJ 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Texas
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you dont need the adjustable but it is a good idea so that you are able to dial in your geometry correctly and fine tune it to get it as accurate as possible.

as far as reasons to go smaller you can get better performance (acceleration and stuff) and economy out of a smaller tire. but to fit a 33x12.5 you will likely need to trim. i know there was a write up where a guy showed exactly what he did for a 33x12.5 on 4.5"

i dont think you would need to regear. even though it would bring your performance and economy back to a more stock level i dont think it would be too bad at all with the 5.2. not worth the money for what you get IMO.

Got to love an ORVIS guy...
IRO 5.5", Front LA & Double Sheer TB, Rear Adj SA and TB, JKS Quick Discos, Bilstein 5125, 265/75/16 Nitto Terra's, Cragar 16x& Soft 8s 4" bs
JCR Stage 2 Sliders, IRO Trans Skid, Carolina Drive shaft, IRO exhaust
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-17-2009, 09:00 PM
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2001 WJ 
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Location: Long Beach
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Look into the front drive shaft upgrade, highly recommended, unless you don't do ANY wheeling. Then it might live for a while.

It's always darkest before dawn... so if your going to steal your neighbors newspaper, that is the time to do so.
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