[FrankTheDank]

first off thanks for all the help, 3 months ago there is no way i could have done this, second i promise pics will come, camera and computer not cooperating.....

post install questions

T case drop, the spacers and brackets mount under the transmission cross member, this does space out the coss member but the t-case stays where it is, this does provide more room for the front drive shaft to droop.?

adjustable track bar, ordered the adj track bar w/ the kit, by the time we had it sized up and the axle pulled into place and had installed it, was roughly the same length as my stock one?

alignment, when i put in my bb the stering wheel was still ''straight'' when the jeep went straight, with the 4'' it's now turned 90* in order to go straight, pitman arm adjustment? just an alignment?, (getting one tomorrow)


Thanks For all the help

Frank


p.s. i'll get pics up asap

[gatorayde]

Leave the T case drop alone, you shouldn't need one until 6"+ of lift. They come with the kit so that it lessens the angle your driveshaft it at, at both the pinion and transfer case. Most of the time the angle is fine at 4" and it is not needed.

The track bar should be longer than stock, re-check your measurements. Your steering wheel being off is because you adjusted your track bar (so no, it's not the same length as stock). If you get it aligned, they will adjust it for you (the draglink is what it's called, btw)

[Bl@ck06Rubi]

Trac Bar centers the axle under the body/frame...Steering wheel is off because the drag link needs adjusting and you need to set your toe...4 inches up causes the steering linkage to move up as well making the wheel off center and throwing the front end out of alingment...

Set your "Toe-in" first then center your steering wheel once thats done...

[FrankTheDank]

thanks for all the quick info!! , while were on the topic of alignment, i got 3 of my 4 32's friday ( #4 got lost on the way and will be here mon or tues), should i wait untill i get the new tires on there before i get everything aligned?\

Thanks

[rustynail]

Get your new tires on, align it the best you can yourself and then take it off road and do lots of flexing. You don`t want to pay for an alignment only to have your springs settle causing the need for another alignment.

[gatorayde]

Originally Posted by Bl@ck06Rubi

Trac Bar centers the axle under the body/frame...Steering wheel is off because the drag link needs adjusting and you need to set your toe...4 inches up causes the steering linkage to move up as well making the wheel off center and throwing the front end out of alingment...

Set your "Toe-in" first then center your steering wheel once thats done...

Toe in has nothing to do with the steering wheel being centered. Tires won't affect your alignment so you can get it aligned whenever, but the sooner the better.

[MACHJGC]

Originally Posted by gatorayde

Toe in has nothing to do with the steering wheel being centered. Tires won't affect your alignment so you can get it aligned whenever, but the sooner the better.

I actually disagree with that statement. If you adjust toe in (lengthening or shortening the tierod) it will affect the position of the draglink then.

[gatorayde]

Originally Posted by MACHJGC

I actually disagree with that statement. If you adjust toe in (lengthening or shortening the tierod) it will affect the position of the draglink then.

Ya know what, now that I picture it, it might. However, unless your toe is waaaaay out of spec, it should not mess with the position of the steering that badly.

My brain hurts from over thinking this now...

[tsconver]

Originally Posted by gatorayde

Toe in has nothing to do with the steering wheel being centered. Tires won't affect your alignment so you can get it aligned whenever, but the sooner the better.

Originally Posted by MACHJGC

I actually disagree with that statement. If you adjust toe in (lengthening or shortening the tierod) it will affect the position of the draglink then.

for every one turn you make on the tie rod you will have to turn the drag link 1/2 of a turn in the opposite direction. It is effected by 1/2 the tie rod.

[the88thpianoman]

Originally Posted by FrankTheDank

first off thanks for all the help, 3 months ago there is no way i could have done this, second i promise pics will come, camera and computer not cooperating.....

post install questions

T case drop, the spacers and brackets mount under the transmission cross member, this does space out the coss member but the t-case stays where it is, this does provide more room for the front drive shaft to droop.?

adjustable track bar, ordered the adj track bar w/ the kit, by the time we had it sized up and the axle pulled into place and had installed it, was roughly the same length as my stock one?

alignment, when i put in my bb the stering wheel was still ''straight'' when the jeep went straight, with the 4'' it's now turned 90* in order to go straight, pitman arm adjustment? just an alignment?, (getting one tomorrow)


Thanks For all the help

Frank


p.s. i'll get pics up asap

T case is bolted up to the transmission, so by dropping the trans cross member one inch, you are effectively lowering the transmission and transfer case, thus decreasing both driveshaft angles. That said, you don't need it, but if you have a CV driveshaft, you'll want to change it to U joint.

Originally Posted by ZJ-Orvis

Get your new tires on, align it the best you can yourself and then take it off road and do lots of flexing. You don`t want to pay for an alignment only to have your springs settle causing the need for another alignment.

Firestone lifetime alignment. It pains me to trust firestone to do anything to the Jeep, but for $160 you can get as many alignments as you want for as long as you own the vehicle. Wheel hard every weekend, free alignment every monday.