IRO 3.5" benchmark lift & extras questions - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
95knight
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waukesha
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IRO 3.5" benchmark lift & extras questions

Okay so looking at the IRO for my entire lift setup and have picked out what i think will work. I'll list it all below, but what I'm wondering is there anything else i need or would want or is a waste?

IRO 3.5 Benchmark[/URL]
-Nitro Shock
-New rear springs
Tenneco HD Steering Stabalizer
ZJ Rear track bar drop bracket
ZJ rear coil retainers

Total of $675 so far already a little more then i wanted to so keep cheap in mind.

Also shocks im okay with the nitros for the ride it'll be better then now...all 4 shocks are currently blown...i was a lil ruff one day

Then over summer or in fall I'm, going to do Addco sway bars from IRO.

would i need extended brake line or what would i have to do to mine now?

Also discos if im not really wheeling to hard do i need them? We got virtually no trails in WI i just know some people with some fields and forests.

Other than that I believe i covered it all but looking to make sure since this is my only driveable car currently.

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post #2 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 01:07 PM
PolkaPower
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You will probably need adjustable control arms to get your drive line angles in spec. Also your CV front drive shaft will not last long so you will need to eventually get that replaced with a U joint shaft. If you wheel over obstacles with the sway bar connected it will bend the sway bar axle mounts. You can just unbolt them though. You will also need a rear adjustable track bar eventually since the brackets usually break. Do not use the t case drop spacers.
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post #3 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 01:43 PM
dougmorgan99
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1998 ZJ 
 
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"...keep cheap in mind" should never be used in lifting a ZJ.

I recommend the new IRO rear 3.5 springs especially if it ends up yours are sagging... with 100,000+ miles by now they likely will be. Go ahead and try the F/R coil swap first with your kit then see how it sits. Once I started adding my rear welded C4x4 bumper with tire carrier and gas can holder, mine sagged even more. Then try and put anything more than a small load of groceries it rakes pretty bad! The new IRo rear springs and 2" BB blocks fixed my issues. Good Luck!

I too am getting IRO adjustable control arm in a few months to finish it off...
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post #4 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 02:14 PM
joshsmithers
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1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Hampton
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I'm bout in the same boat. Here's what I'm looking to put on my stocker:

IRO F>R swap Kit: $450 http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFZ
Bilstein 5125 Shocks upgrade: $250
Adjustable Rear Track Bar from IRO $140 http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFZ
Adjustable LCAs front and rear: $360 http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=ZSC

Total: 1200

Just Empty Every Pocket. Probably going to end up replacing the rear coils, adding quick discos and longer front brake lines down the road.
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post #5 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 02:51 PM
JohnnyZJ
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what size tire are you running?

31s? gonna look funny on 3.5" lift.

2" budget boost. cheaper and will accopmlish running 31.

still want more? ok. start with the F/R swap. don't bother with new coils. spend that coin on shocks instead. or a front track bar.

should do lower front corntol arms at least if the bushings are shot.

07' JKUR rollin on 35s
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post #6 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 04:53 PM
joshsmithers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyZJ View Post
what size tire are you running?

31s? gonna look funny on 3.5" lift.
Isn't part of the reason for a suspension lift to run bigger tires?
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post #7 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 05:06 PM
kg6mov
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But 31's are just fine on 2" of lift, no need for 3.5"

1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ 5.9 - Junked
1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #8 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
95knight
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Im currently running 31's stock.

So itd look wierd 31's and 3.5"?

Then if i wasnt to do a 3.5 and save out for it later on say 2/3 years how reliable are the 2" BB with say nitro shocks from IRO? Also any issues with the CAs or Sway bars?

Also someone said running sway bars crawling youd bend the axel mounts I dont necesarly see myself getting that deep in because id have to drive atleast 300mi to get there first.
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post #9 of 14 Old 04-02-2013, 10:23 PM
kg6mov
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BB's are fine, spring for bilsteins if you're gonna keep em around for a while.

Sway bar links should technically be longer for 2", an adjustable track bar in the front is also a nice to have.

1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ 5.9 - Junked
1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #10 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 08:38 AM
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95knight View Post

Also someone said running sway bars crawling youd bend the axel mounts I dont necesarly see myself getting that deep in because id have to drive atleast 300mi to get there first.
Just drive to where you are going to wheel then unbolt the sway bar endlinks.

Here is how the sway bar endlinks mounts will bend if you wheel over uneven terrain. Ask me how I know that will happen. I didn't have the JKS when I did that.
Attached Thumbnails
Picture 7.jpg  
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 04:49 PM
LoveHate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
You will probably need adjustable control arms to get your drive line angles in spec. Also your CV front drive shaft will not last long so you will need to eventually get that replaced with a U joint shaft. If you wheel over obstacles with the sway bar connected it will bend the sway bar axle mounts. You can just unbolt them though. You will also need a rear adjustable track bar eventually since the brackets usually break. Do not use the t case drop spacers.
hey I was just wondering why you say not to use the t case drop. I have one on my zj the po installed along with a 3" bb lift. I have not noticed a problem but would like to remove the drop for more clearance if I don't need it. do you think ill be ok with out the drop? im at about 4" lift 3" bb and upcountry coils fyi. thanks.

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Built Not Bought #693
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 06:21 PM
PolkaPower
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On my 95 I had 4.5"-5" of lift with no T case drop. There are guy on here with 6"+ and no t case drop. It's very rare that you would need one and you just lose clearance.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 07:43 PM
LoveHate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
On my 95 I had 4.5"-5" of lift with no T case drop. There are guy on here with 6"+ and no t case drop. It's very rare that you would need one and you just lose clearance.
thanks that's what I was hoping to hear.

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Built Not Bought #693
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post #14 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 09:18 PM
srieger
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I just dropped 920 on the same kit.. Only I went with the dt8000s and added a rear adjustable track bar and their 2.5 inch exhaust since mine was leaking. I'm going to try the f<r spring swap first only because I've heard of instances where iros rear springs actually sit higher than 3.5. If it sags I'll just order a spacer or take a shot with 3.5" rear springs.. Once I order their control arm pack I'm thinking of popping a 1.75 inch spacer in from them anyway. Still undecided about their front long arm kit. But honestly, nothing will be cheap with a jeep. It's a full blown addiction. You'll always want bigger. I'm running a 2" bb on 31's now that I thought was sufficient .. Parked next to a friend with a 5.5 and my truck looked stock.. Hence the new lift that was ordered the next day lol.
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