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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #1
ROFLwaffles
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Intake manifold swap. 97 to 99. Missing something?

I have a 97 ZJ with a 4.0 I6. I have gathered on here that swapping the intake manifold from a 99 WJ 4.0 will give me a good upgrade in power. I have read most of the searchable threads, but still have one remaining question:

It looks as if it is a straight swap, but before I dive in, IS IT? Are there any modifications I need to make to the new one? Is it as simple as a 'remove/replace' as all the threads make it seem? I just want to be sure.

I don't want to tear apart the top part of my engine just to find out I forgot something stupidly obvious. Any advice from someone who has done this would be greatly appreciated.

I am hoping that swapping intake, and adding cold air, and a header back exhaust will really boost me up power wise.

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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:46 PM   #2
riot1987
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If you do the entire system, youll notice some more power. I did it and it swapped in fine. I needed to make one of the sensor wires longer because it wasnt long enough to reach the "new" hole.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 08:47 PM   #3
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One of those rear manifold bolts is a real slut to get in/out good luck
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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:27 PM   #4
ROFLwaffles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post
If you do the entire system, youll notice some more power. I did it and it swapped in fine. I needed to make one of the sensor wires longer because it wasnt long enough to reach the "new" hole.
What do you mean "the entire system"? Will the original throttle body and fuel rails not still work? Do I need to replace more than just the manifold itself?
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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:36 PM   #5
AaronButler
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I just did mine a few weeks ago, and for yours, being a 97, it is pretty straightforward. Biggest thing is, post 96 you didnt have to make any adjustments to the power steering pump, so you are lucky. The hardest thing for me was fitting the vacuum lines in the right place, and I did have to lengthen the air temp sensor cables. The fuel line bolt was also way off so I had to jimmy-rig a solution by getting 2 pieces of metal, drilling holes, and bolting the 2 pieces together, mashing the original holder and the new one together. The new manifold only has 1 bolt instead of 2, so I had to drill a hole right in the middle of it for it to be stable.



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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:40 PM   #6
riot1987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROFLwaffles View Post
What do you mean "the entire system"? Will the original throttle body and fuel rails not still work? Do I need to replace more than just the manifold itself?
I mean, you wont feel much from just doing an intake. You will get the full benefit when you do your exhaust as well. Looks like you plan on that anyways so DO IT
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Unread 06-12-2013, 09:49 PM   #7
ROFLwaffles
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Originally Posted by riot1987 View Post

I mean, you wont feel much from just doing an intake. You will get the full benefit when you do your exhaust as well. Looks like you plan on that anyways so DO IT
Okay. You had me worried there for a second. I do plan on doing the whole system air in to air out.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 05:01 AM   #8
gearheadnick
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The vacuum lines have to be slightly modified (get pieces and elbows from the junkyard while you're there), the fuel line bracket needs to be redrilled (not an issue), and the air temp sensor either needs to be lengthened or you can move the sensor to where it can reach like I did (there's plenty of ports to do so).
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Unread 06-13-2013, 08:36 AM   #9
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Why not do a set of '703 injectors while you're at it?
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Unread 06-13-2013, 08:54 AM   #10
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^^this
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Unread 06-13-2013, 11:43 AM   #11
ROFLwaffles
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Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Why not do a set of '703 injectors while you're at it?
What Is the difference with the 703 injectors?
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Unread 06-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #12
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More efficient spray pattern that leads to better atomization of the air/fuel charge as it enters the cylinder. Depending on the condition of your current injectors, some people see an increase in fuel economy, but most everyone notes quicker start up, smoother idle and increased throttle response.

You can buy reman'd injectors on eBay for around $80 for a set of 6, or you can pull them at the local JY and purchase a $12 o-ring and micro filter kit and rebuild them yourself. For my set of 8 injectors, I paid $3.50 per injector and $15 for the rebuild kit. I did have one injector that was stuck open, so I exchanged it at the JY for another one, but aside from that it was a smooth and straight forward swap. Plus I spend less than half the cost of buying a set online. There's a large thread on here going over the swap if you search for it.
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Unread 06-13-2013, 09:49 PM   #13
dbmorris99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
you can pull them at the local JY and purchase a $12 o-ring and micro filter kit and rebuild them yourself. For my set of 8 injectors, I paid $3.50 per injector and $15 for the rebuild kit. I did have one injector that was stuck open, so I exchanged it at the JY for another one, but aside from that it was a smooth and straight forward swap. Plus I spend less than half the cost of buying a set online. There's a large thread on here going over the swap if you search for it.
what year and model would one find these injectors in?
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Unread 06-13-2013, 10:00 PM   #14
dnuccio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbmorris99 View Post
what year and model would one find these injectors in?
pretty much any chrysler product 95-98 with the 2.0L or 2.4L 4 banger (neons, stratus', mini vans, etc)
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Unread 06-13-2013, 11:09 PM   #15
zander21510
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You can check out my sig for some detailed walkthroughs on the 703s and manifold swap. It's a good plug n play swap especially for 96+
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