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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Installing speakers in a WJ.
I have seen a lot of posts asking questions about installing speakers and I am hoping my write up takes care of all those questions. Everything you see here can be applied to all the speakers in the WJ.
We'll start with the drivers rear door. ![]() Use a wide, flat tool that won't damage the panel. I used a 2" putty knife. Start at the top rear corner of the door and pry out. ![]() When you can get your fingers behind the panel ditch the tool and work your way across the top being careful not to break the panel. You will have to use a fair amount of force to pop the tabs loose so get as close to the tab as possible before putting a lot of pressure on the panel. Once you have the top loose work your way down the sides and across the bottom. Next you will want to remove the lock and door release rods. Just unclip the plastic piece from the rod, rotate out and remove the rod. ![]() Next is the window switch. Be careful here as the tabs holding the switch are fragile. There is a tab at the bottom of the plug you have to press to release it. You may need to use a small screwdriver to pry on the release to get it out. ![]() Now your panel is free and you can remove the three screws holding in the stock speaker. ![]() When you have the speaker out you will notice a plastic tab holding the harness to the speaker. Pry it loose with a screwdriver or putty knife. ![]() Now you can pull the plug by pressing the release tab and take the stock speaker to a work bench. ![]() This is the speaker I installed. It is a Soundstream 6 1/2". ![]() ![]() At almost 2 3/4" deep you may say impossible but I found a solution in the stock speaker and is why you are bringing it to the workbench and not throwing it away. Starting at one of the mountig tabs, get a screwdriver under the plastic ring of the screen. Be careful not to break the plastic. ![]() Gently pry on the ring and work the screwdriver around the speaker slowly. ![]() Once you have it loose it may still be stuck to the foam rubber surround of the speaker. Yank it off while holding the cone of the speaker and clean off the excess foam. ![]() At this point you can toss the old speaker. ![]() Now use a razor knife to cut the screen from the center of the ring. ![]()
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Because I felt like it! Last edited by tazimafied; 07-18-2009 at 02:48 PM.. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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If you havn't figured it out already the ring will be used as a spacer for the new speaker. Mark the holes you want to use on the ring....
![]() and drill them out. ![]() Center the spacer on the speaker hole in the door and mark and drill. ![]() ![]() Since we're already at the jeep grab the razor knife and cut the tape holding the plastic tab off the wiring harness. ![]() Cut the tape holding the sheathing. ![]() And, push the sheathing back away from the plug. ![]() Cut the plug off about 1 1/2" back. ![]() Strip the wires. ![]() Trim the wires for the speaker to the desired length strip them as well. I made the connection with solderless terminals. Use a decent brand connector as well. I tried using the cheapies in the tray pictured on my bench and they didn't hold the wires for squat. This speaker set includes crossovers so I will cover those too. I used denatured alcohol to wipe the mounting surfaces clean for the mounting tape. I mounted the crossover right under the speaker over the track for the window cable. ![]() These speakers have a lot of extra wire that can be trimmed off or tucked away. I chose to just tuck it away for now. ![]() ![]() Now you can mount the speaker. ![]() And, the window rolls down without touching the speaker or any other components. ![]() The panel went back on without any modification and the sound difference is amazing. The 6x9's in the front are the same setup although I don't know what the maximum mounting depth is. I will add to this to let everyone know when I replace them.
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Because I felt like it! |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Very Nice write up.
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99 WJ, 4.7,4" IRO, 245/75/16 Hercules Traildigger M/T, HID lights, More as $$ allows Damn my attention deficit dis....... ooohh shiny! |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Great job!! One question,...what to use for a spacer as I don't have stock speakers or cover?
I'm in the process of installing rear speakers & yes they hit the window.
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48'cj2a 95' YJ 01' WJ |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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If you don't have the stockers to work with you should be able to cut some spacers out of 1/8" fiber board or MDF. Maby even plexi or lexan. If your really adventurous and have the tools you can make some out of aluminium.
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Because I felt like it! |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Speaker Install Update
I just installed the front today. It was pretty much the same with a few minor differences.
Here are the two side bt side. ![]() As you can see here the stocker is only at a 2 1/2" mounting depth and the new speaker is at 3 3/8". ![]() You really need to take your time prying off the ring on the 6x9. It is a bit thinner and will break easily. ![]() Here it is installed. These are the same brand and type as the rears I installed so there is a crossover in the door on these as well. The stock mounting tabs were used and the origional screws were more than long enough. Be careful how tight you go. It is possible to pull the plastic tabs out. ![]() ![]() And, the window rolls down without touching anything. Before you reinstall the panel be sure to remove the piece of white foam that was acting as an insulator for the speaker. There is a possibility of the cone hitting it at high volume levels and causing a hum or rattle. If you are concerned about the panel rattling on the speaker use a thinner piece or trim the origional piece so it wont interfere with the cone. ![]() Subs are next!
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Because I felt like it! |
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