Infamous stalling problem identified, temporary cure 1997 grand Cherokee - Page 60 - JeepForum.com

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post #886 of 888 Old 01-26-2017, 07:45 AM
chimpanzee
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: los angeles
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy161 View Post
Well, trip home was uneventful. I will say the zip ties worked for a short time but eventually even that was not enough to maintain a good connection for me.
The hose clamp I installed last night worked... for now. It keeps all three clamps tight (and I mean TIGHT) where the zip ties did not.
Only time will tell.
Myetball? You did the hose clamp trick too? Is that working so far? If so I'd leave the clamps in place. If you have a bad plug I'd stick with that as opposed to going back to the zip ties. They just won't hold up over time and they do stretch a little. I am missing a lock tab on my C1 like the guy whose pic I stole below
The connector closest to us is C1.Pin 7 inside that connector (at the top middle of the connector) is the coil signal wire. Like I said earlier, my thing is either that C1 connector being loose or the PCM has a bad connetion internally. I dunno. But I'll keep everyone here posted of how it works for me.
I'm curious how many folks are missing the lock tabs on ANY one of their connectors. Heat, weather and cold are all contributors to plastic breaking down over time. Mine is obvious, others might not be. Say the tab might be broken on the bottom of the plug. It might be C2 or C3.
I've got a '96 ZJ bought used. Don't have any probs with the PCM electrical connectors (yet), but I DID have a problem with the brake switch on the brake pedal. (the brake light would stay on when the car was turned off -- would DRAINED the battery overnight)

The plastic locking tab (on the connector) lost it's flex, & the connector wouldn't stay put. I had to use a big zip tie to fix this

My passenger rear window regulator went out, the plastic roller broke. I had to goto junkyard to get a replacement regulator assembly.

Front headlight clear assembly (plastic) turns yellow, I had to use toothbrush/toothpaste to get rid of oxidation.
My BMW 325 (1993) washer fluid tank cracked & was leaking. After I got a replacement from junkyard, IT started leaking!!


Conclusion:


Plastic gets brittle, they are a weak link.

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post #887 of 888 Old 01-26-2017, 07:50 AM
chimpanzee
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Originally Posted by Candymancan View Post
Your lucky thren, a new PCM for me didnt fix it, replaced alot of expensive sensors, cleaned the throttle body taking it off, intake manifold vacuum seems fine, all new vacuum lines. new spark plugs wires, and rotor/cap. Only sensor i havent done yet is the Crank shaft sensor and the Torque Convertor clutch solenoid..

New alt and new battery i might add too... These damn ZJ's are cursed...
Bad ground somehwere??

I would check the ground connections to frame, there could be rust as source of "gremlin"
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post #888 of 888 Old 01-26-2017, 08:24 AM
chimpanzee
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https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussi...-fixed-599568/

solder connections need to be checked (& possibly re-flowed) at the voltage regulator board (which attach to connector)
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