IM out of ideas, it still wont stay running, Plz help... - Page 4

JAX04 · 10-02-2011, 09:06 PM

Nope. Lol. I just changed it guys. No trickery intended. Lol. However. I believe I've found my culprit. The pcm. I got the jeep to start and popped the hood. I then wiggled the connectors and found the middle connector would cause it die/run rough when wiggled. I'm guessing ill need to replace my pcm.

JAX04 · 10-04-2011, 03:45 PM

Just keeping you all updated, no go, tried to grease the contacts and use Zip ties to hold them in place, didnt work at all.

JAX04 · 10-18-2011, 06:44 AM

just to keep you all updated, i still havent gotten a new PCM and the problem hasnt got any better. Im going to go snag a junk yard ECU/PCM and see if that helps, before i drop a bunch of cash on a new unit.

JAX04 · 10-28-2011, 03:41 PM

OK< so UPDATE TIME!

Decided to go to the local junk yard and try a PCM from one of those vehicles. Plugged it in, truck fired right up and ran great, drove it around the block, amazing, decided for ****s and giggles to unplug the new one and plug the old one back in and started it up, right back to its olds crap, rough idle, impossible to keep running, etc.

SO, i unplugged the old one, plugged the new back in, smooth as can be, i was finally happy. Well, the next day i go back to start it, and its running like ****, real rough idle like its not even firing on some cylinders, the tach is up and down, and i mean UP AND DOWN! Im talking the needle is just flat flying around, between 0 and 4k, up and down, down and up, etc.

The running symptoms are completly different, it feels different while its running like crap. So im pretty confident that ive narrowed it down to the PCM, and this one is really not any better. The local parts yard gauranteed its part, so im gonna have him try to locate another one, and try it, if its still crappy, junk yard parts i expect to be, ill just break down and order a reman unit, as much as i hate to do it, unless someone has another better idea.

thanks

Kyle

JAX04 · 11-01-2011, 03:52 PM

I replaced the sensor under the rotor. Very easy to do, didnt move anything, only removed the cap and popped it right off and replaced with a new one.

Today, i get home, start the jeep, it idles ok. Check engine light is on, damn it, oh well. I disconnected the battery for a cigarette and plugged it back in, fired right up, ran fine, around the neighborhood for 10 trips, shutting it off between rounds, letting it sit, then taking off again. This time, i grabbed my Torque application on my driod and elm obdII bluetooth deal. Plugged them in and drove her around awhile, now, ive used this deal to some extent on my GTO.

One thing i noticed, the TPS read 13.3% with key on, and foot to the floor only would read like 79%. Car running it read the same. Now, i bought this sensor to replace it, but couldnt get the screws out holding it in, ended up stripping one. Bummer, so i left it alone since the problem "cleared up" for a day or two.

I cannot solder, and will not attempt it as i my hands are very shaky and dont want to ruin anything else.

Now, with my torque app and scanner, i ran the fault code checker probably 100 times in the course of tens drives, not faults ever showed and the check engine light never came on. Im going to let it sit over night, and try again tomorrow afternoon, i suspect an issue with the TPS, considering its reading 13.3% at idle and with just "key on". However, i guess i could plug a volt meter into it and read it, if i could figure that out anyway.

I appreciate everyones help thus far, i really do. Im beginning to want to light this truck on fire, i loved it, until it started this crap.

ALSO, does anyone know how to fix the rear hatch? its like the handle/lever wont open it all, ive owned it for a year and never been able to open the hatch, id love to fix that too, lol

Mudviper · 11-01-2011, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAX04

I replaced the sensor under the rotor. Very easy to do, didnt move anything, only removed the cap and popped it right off and replaced with a new one.

Today, i get home, start the jeep, it idles ok. Check engine light is on, damn it, oh well. I disconnected the battery for a cigarette and plugged it back in, fired right up, ran fine, around the neighborhood for 10 trips, shutting it off between rounds, letting it sit, then taking off again. This time, i grabbed my Torque application on my driod and elm obdII bluetooth deal. Plugged them in and drove her around awhile, now, ive used this deal to some extent on my GTO.

One thing i noticed, the TPS read 13.3% with key on, and foot to the floor only would read like 79%. Car running it read the same. Now, i bought this sensor to replace it, but couldnt get the screws out holding it in, ended up stripping one. Bummer, so i left it alone since the problem "cleared up" for a day or two.

I cannot solder, and will not attempt it as i my hands are very shaky and dont want to ruin anything else.

Now, with my torque app and scanner, i ran the fault code checker probably 100 times in the course of tens drives, not faults ever showed and the check engine light never came on. Im going to let it sit over night, and try again tomorrow afternoon, i suspect an issue with the TPS, considering its reading 13.3% at idle and with just "key on". However, i guess i could plug a volt meter into it and read it, if i could figure that out anyway.

I appreciate everyones help thus far, i really do. Im beginning to want to light this truck on fire, i loved it, until it started this crap.

ALSO, does anyone know how to fix the rear hatch? its like the handle/lever wont open it all, ive owned it for a year and never been able to open the hatch, id love to fix that too, lol

I have been using the full version of the Torque App trying to fix the problem on my XJ, but never noticed a TPS reading. Where is the TPS reading on the Torque App?

anony · 11-01-2011, 09:56 PM

[QUOTE=JAX04;12425537 This time, i grabbed my Torque application on my driod and elm obdII bluetooth deal. Plugged them in and drove her around awhile, now, ive used this deal to some extent on my GTO.

One thing i noticed, the TPS read 13.3% with key on, and foot to the floor only would read like 79%. Car running it read the same. Now, i bought this sensor to replace it, but couldnt get the screws out holding it in, ended up stripping one. Bummer, so i left it alone since the problem "cleared up" for a day or two.

I cannot solder, and will not attempt it as i my hands are very shaky and dont want to ruin anything else.

I appreciate everyones help thus far, i really do. Im beginning to want to light this truck on fire, i loved it, until it started this crap.

l[/QUOTE]

Get and use the correct size bit (should be a torx bit) ... if stubborn use a few drops of penetrating fluid ..

Save any codes obtained from your scanner, these come in handy when trying to diagnose problems.

A wiggle test usually indicates a bad, loose or corroded wire or connector with pulled, bent or corroded pin(s) ..

It is possible there is more than one problem, especially with high mileage vehicles, your cooling system, electrical (battery and alternator), vacuum hoses, air intake, , fuel delivery, filters, etc. should be in good working order

A bad coolant temperature sensor or loose temp-sensor plug wire can sometimes effect idling, fuel delivery, etc. causing intermittent problems.

JAX04 · 11-02-2011, 05:11 AM

Went out this morning, fired it up, ran like complete ***.... Try again when i get home, waiting on new PCM to get here. ****s getting old.

EVERY SENSOR, with the exception of the TPS is brand new, every one under the hood, attached to the motor, etc. All brand new.

Ill plug my scanner back in tonight and see what the tps is while its acting up. I bet it acts fine tonight though, something to do with cold damp mornings vs. Warm dry afternoons...... Really wish i knew what the hell was going on.

I have the "right torx" I have a set of about 50 torx bits....

Mudviper · 11-02-2011, 06:47 AM

The Torx screw have loctite on them from the factor so they don't vibrate loose. In order to get mine loose, I had to take the throttle body off and heat up the throttle body around the area where the screws go in to get them out.

JAX04 · 11-02-2011, 09:16 AM

I guess ill try it tonight. Anyone wanna buy a zj with a brand new trans and diff rebuild?

anony · 11-02-2011, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mudviper

The Torx screw have loctite on them from the factor so they don't vibrate loose. In order to get mine loose, I had to take the throttle body off and heat up the throttle body around the area where the screws go in to get them out.

Not sure why the factory is using a high strength loctite, where heat is required ... ( unless because of the location in the engine bay? or someone used the wrong type of loctite)

262 high strength, chemical resistant, service removable with heat. red. non drip tthixotropic viscosity. this is the heat and handtools to remove stuff.

272 high temperature (450 F) high strength, permanent locking. red. high viscosity.

small screws under 1/4" should only require a low strength such as purple 222.

Has worked out just fine so far without using any Loctite ... I could see perhaps using a dab of loctite if the sensor can not be torqued down enough.

Mudviper · 11-02-2011, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anony

Not sure why the factory is using a high strength loctite, where heat is required ... ( unless because of the location in the engine bay? or someone used the wrong type of loctite)

262 high strength, chemical resistant, service removable with heat. red. non drip tthixotropic viscosity. this is the heat and handtools to remove stuff.

272 high temperature (450 F) high strength, permanent locking. red. high viscosity.

small screws under 1/4" should only require a low strength such as purple 222.

Has worked out just fine so far without using any Loctite ... I could see perhaps using a dab of loctite if the sensor can not be torqued down enough.

Not sure why it's there, but I have taken about a couple throttle bodies and both of them had some for of thread sealer on the ends on both the TPS sensor and also the IAC sensor.

JAX04 · 11-02-2011, 06:47 PM

I had no issue with the Iac. None at all. Also. Got home and fired up the jeep. 65* outside and ran perfect. In the mornings when its damp and Cold it runs like ****! Why!

JAX04 · 11-03-2011, 07:43 AM

Still no luck on this truck it ONLY acts like a jerk in the morning, when its damp and chilly, afternoons, when i get home, 65* out and dry(ish), its starts right up and acts FINE. Im literally over this, to think, i just spent 3k having the damn transmission and transfer case rebuilt.

Every damn sensor, with the exception of the o2s have been replaced, new fuel pump and filter. Im over this truck.

**AmbuGrl** · 11-03-2011, 07:58 AM

do you have a grand cherokee or an XJ?