tried searching but didnt come up with much. im swapping to a u joint front driveshaft to replace my blown up CV. obviously ill need to install the u joint yoke on the axle. what is the procedure to properly set the preload i believe its called? i have pretty much no experience with axles, only thing axle related i ever did was replace my CV boots on the axle shafts.
Reliability is relative
There is a crush sleeve on there that you have to start to get it to crush you can feel the tension on the new part. To get it to start to crush I used a half inch air impact on the nut while holding the new part so that it won't spin. After you start feeling it getting a little tighter you are going to have to measure the preload with a torque wrench in inch pounds. Then turn it slow to see what it is reading. And the preload is supposed to be between 22-40 inch pounds but you want it as close to 22 add possible without being under. Hope this helps.
i've posted this so many times i should just have it in a notepad file for the three to five times a week i need to retype it.
never, ever use an impact when putting a differential back together. disassembly is ok. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/searc...rchid=17956788
remove everything from the front axle to include the shafts.
use an inlb dial or beam torque wrench to measure current pinion turning preload
remove old nut and discard
change seal and put new yoke on
use a new nut, torque to 160ftlbs
measure pinion turning preload again
increase nut torque by 5ftlb increments until pinion turning preload measures 5inlbs above your initial measurement. do not exceed 360flts doing this, you need a new crush sleeve and most likely bearings at that point.
many shops will actually use the terrible redneck version of doing this and just "mark the nut position" and reuse the old nut. the nuts are very much one time use only. doing it that way will lead to premature pinion bearing failure or ring and pinion failure.
it saves them time so they can make more money and by the time the failure comes up they're not on the hook for any kind of warranty.
'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.
reviving this thread rather than start a new one. haven't had the time or tools to mess with this until now. just have one more question. do i have to remove the carrier as well as the axle shafts when i set the preload, or just pull the shafts out? and if i do need to remove the carrier, can i just make sure to put the shims back where they were? or do i need to reset the whole thing at that point? im not replacing bearings or anything, just swapping the yoke.
Reliability is relative
You can get by with a hash mark on the nut, when you tighten it back down line the mark, this is the down and dirty way and unless i were planning on a total rebuild.
All your doing is changing the yoke, use a big pipe wrench with a 3' pipe over the handle, at least a 1/2 drive socket of 1-5/16" with a breaker bar and 3' piece of pipe cheater.
If you get whine going down the road it's not tight enough, if the gear gets sizzle spit hot it's too tight.
If you leave the carrier and axles in it will add rotational resistance to the pinion and throw off your preload. Read what Ratmonkey wrote, he knew what he was talking about. Your rotational load on the pinion when the bearings have proper preload is very small. I'm more familiar with the Ford 8.8 but 22-40 inch pounds sounds right. That's only a couple of pounds. The friction of the axle seals and bearings and dragging the ring gear around will add almost that much.
Getting a new crush sleeve and pinion nut and doing this the right way with a breaker bar and inch pound torque wrench is easy and much cheaper than wiping out a rear end when the bearings let go.
there are two ways to do this, sounds liek you're already confused and will cause you grief.
IF you pull apart the whole diff, you need a NEW crush sleeve. this takes 300 ft/lbs to start the crush; you will also have to measure rotational force with an inch poungdtorque wrench on the pinion nut to make sure preload and stuff is set correctly. then you can put the diff back together putting shims and stuff in the correct order; thats not the hard part. setting preload on a pinion is a royal pain in the ***.
OR. mark the old nut, zip it off, pull the yoke off, install new yoke, and zip the nut back on a little further than it was before (this gives the CRUSH sleeve a little more crush to ensure its tight) this is how most mechanic shops do it. however you're not a mechanic
really you could probably take it to a shop and tell them what you want done. tell em you need a pinion seal changed and give them the new yoke to put on, they'll do it. (because you will be changing the pinon seal anyways right?
Since he is using a new yoke he should use a new crush sleeve. Due to manufacturing tolerances the new yoke may be a little deeper or shallower that the original and that may not be compatible with the old crush sleeve. Setting preload with a new crush sleeve is pretty easy and straight forward. It's pretty obvious when the sleeve starts to crush and then you just slowly tighten the new nut until you get your desired rotating torque. It takes 300 ft lbs to start the crush but that's easy enough with a breaker bar and once the crush starts it's pretty easy to turn the nut.
The nuts are single use only. Never try and reuse an old nut. The $3 you save can cost you a ton more. As Ratmonkey said, a lot of shops do it this way because it's fast and cheap. That doesn't make it right. Those shops also put the nut back on with an impact and mess up your bearings. You won't know until 5000 miles down the road when the nut backs off and the bearings chew themselves up.