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Unread 10-17-2009, 05:07 PM   #1
SouthSeaPirate
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How to replace Steering Stabilizer?

Just as it states, Id like to know what to do and what to expect. The DW is getting annoying and I want to put a Monroe in there to stop it until I can fix the rest of the front end.

Do I have to take off the center link bar or can I just unbolt the old SS and put the new one on? Or?

TIA

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Unread 10-17-2009, 05:10 PM   #2
GraKee99
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Just so know, DW isn't caused by a worn out steering stabilizer. There is a bigger problem you need to fix. I would check for worn tie rod ends and check your control arm bushings first.
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Unread 10-17-2009, 06:58 PM   #3
XrynoX
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x2 with GraKee99. a bolt on either end. have a look

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Unread 10-17-2009, 07:14 PM   #4
sandman
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un bolt it, take it off. a hammer may be needed if its stuck on there.
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Unread 10-17-2009, 07:25 PM   #5
Area.3.Fiftyone
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Steering stabilizers only mask DW problems, they don't correct it.
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Unread 10-17-2009, 11:23 PM   #6
SouthSeaPirate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthSeaPirate View Post
Just as it states, Id like to know what to do and what to expect. The DW is getting annoying and I want to put a Monroe in there to stop it until I can fix the rest of the front end.

Do I have to take off the center link bar or can I just unbolt the old SS and put the new one on? Or?

TIA
Thats exactly what I want to do ppl, I want to mask DW. At least while I can replace everything in the front (over time).

Thanks for the input ppl!

So, sandman, I dont need to remove anything else? Just unbolt the SS (I know that getting it off the bolt is more involved) and bolt the other one on?


Ive decided to pretty much replace everything because I dont know how to tell a part is bad and every DW thread Ive read say a mulitude of different things cause DW, pretty much every part is mentioned...
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Unread 10-17-2009, 11:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthSeaPirate View Post
Thats exactly what I want to do ppl, I want to mask DW. At least while I can replace everything in the front (over time).

Thanks for the input ppl!

So, sandman, I dont need to remove anything else? Just unbolt the SS (I know that getting it off the bolt is more involved) and bolt the other one on?


Ive decided to pretty much replace everything because I dont know how to tell a part is bad and every DW thread Ive read say a mulitude of different things cause DW, pretty much every part is mentioned...
Yeah just unbolt it and pray it comes out without any hassle. You may need a tierod puller to get that end out of the drag link since it is pressed in there. Some times even a pickle fork
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Unread 10-18-2009, 06:44 AM   #8
MarkoPo
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I changed mine recently, it wasn't that bad. I got a Monro brand. They only give you the bolt that goes in the drag link, so I had to go to the hardware store and buy a bolt for the other end, as the auto parts store didn't have one. I bought a grade 8 bolt with a lock washer, probably overkill, but it was only about a buck. I just used a BFH to get the bolt out of the drag link. FYI if you try to pound it out put the castle nut on first and hit that. I ended up mushrooming mine and had to take the grinder to it after I got it broke loose.
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Unread 10-18-2009, 07:15 AM   #9
NXT-LVL
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Agreed, if you are replacing all parts, no special tools needed. You can "tap" the link ends with a hammer. But as said, if it's a part you need to re use protect the threads or you will suffer the results. Don't forget to measure the end links for length of thread (make them as close as possible to the old ones), it will be better for you just in case you can't get to a shop for alignment right after you do the work.
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Unread 10-18-2009, 01:54 PM   #10
SouthSeaPirate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardman Harry View Post
Yeah just unbolt it and pray it comes out without any hassle. You may need a tierod puller to get that end out of the drag link since it is pressed in there. Some times even a pickle fork
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkoPo View Post
I changed mine recently, it wasn't that bad. I got a Monro brand. They only give you the bolt that goes in the drag link, so I had to go to the hardware store and buy a bolt for the other end, as the auto parts store didn't have one. I bought a grade 8 bolt with a lock washer, probably overkill, but it was only about a buck. I just used a BFH to get the bolt out of the drag link. FYI if you try to pound it out put the castle nut on first and hit that. I ended up mushrooming mine and had to take the grinder to it after I got it broke loose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NXT-LVL View Post
Agreed, if you are replacing all parts, no special tools needed. You can "tap" the link ends with a hammer. But as said, if it's a part you need to re use protect the threads or you will suffer the results. Don't forget to measure the end links for length of thread (make them as close as possible to the old ones), it will be better for you just in case you can't get to a shop for alignment right after you do the work.
Good to know I dont have to take off the center link bar (stupid Haynes). I plan to use a puller (not tie-rod specific, just a universal one) and a torch to heat it up after Ive tightened down the puller and wait for it to pop off.

Unfortunately Im suddenly having a hard time getting the Monroe, *******es at Advance 'Oh yeah we got one' get there 'Umm no we dont have one, but we can get it' thank god I dont need one right now; ****ing idiots...

Thanks for the help guys! Wish me luck on getting the parts from these fools
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Unread 10-20-2009, 11:57 PM   #11
SouthSeaPirate
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Wow, it worked. And wasnt that hard to put on! Of course I left the old bolt on there, it all looked fine.

On an average 60 mile round trip to work Id get at least get DW 3 times. Now right after the SS install I took a 600 mile round trip (on Floridas bumby *** Turnpike) and not one bit of DW and no steering wheel jerks from bumps in the road.
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Unread 10-21-2009, 05:56 AM   #12
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Congrats, now return the help by doing the same for some one else.
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