How to: Replace PCV / CCV Hoses, Grommets, and Elbows - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 12-27-2007, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
redhatman
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How to: Replace PCV / CCV Hoses, Grommets, and Elbows

Overall, its a pretty simple job but if you are a visual learner, the more pictures the better.

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation
CCV = Closed Crankcase Ventilation

Essentially, the same thing. Most engines its PCV but for some reason on the 4.0 is called the CCV system, they are basically vacuum lines. When you need replacing you will notice oil blowback the most, around the grommets (valves on top of engine) and oil blowback on the air filter. Pop your hood and check it out. These things should be replaced every 30,000 miles, but not more than 50,000. This job costs me $24.55 total after tax.

Part No. 2946079 101D4 Grommet $5.22 x 2 = $10.44
Part No. 53030495 101D5 Crankcase Ventilation $7.16
Part No. 53030497 101D5 Crankcase Ventilation $5.42









Start by disconnecting both lines leading to the CCV Valves on the engine. There should be 2 total. Once you take those off, pull the elbow and grommet (rubber fitting) from the engine. Mine were dirty...






Clean up the area very well and make sure NOTHING falls down into the engine. Cleaning the area will ensure a leak free seal.





Before fiddling around with trying to press the fittings and grommets into place, stop. You will not get them in as one piece (elbow + grommet together at once). I tried oil as lube, as well as freezing the grommet to try and shrink it temporarily. It just would not budge. It was very simple however to get a clean screw driver and put just the grommet in first. Put the screw driver in a place where it acts as sort of a guide, or slide. You should be able to press the majority of the grommet in the hole, and then insert the screwdriver partially, and finish the insertion fairly easily.





-Pat

I am now a dealer for Iron Rock Off Road
I offer the same great products you already know about,
the same low prices you have been seeing, and with
the same experienced customer support, but I can offer it nearly 24/7

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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMARJEEP View Post
Those tires look freakin awesome Redhat... took the ZJ up a notch in my book. Now you're at notch 2.

Last edited by redhatman; 12-28-2007 at 10:19 AM.
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post #2 of 22 Old 12-27-2007, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
redhatman
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Once this is installed, all that is left is the elbow and hoses that were removed. The elbow should go in without too much struggle, but it will take some work. Remember this vacuum line is supposed to have no leaks and is held tight by the parts just how they are, so it will be tight. It doesnt hurt to get up on your Jeep and press down from above either. Do this process for both the front and back. I am not sure what is different about the elbows, but the grey one goes in the rear and black in the front.




Take the lines to a water source with soap and a brush handy. Inspect all lines carefully and replace if there is any damage. Mine were good to go from inspection. Clean well, rinse, and dry completely. Even a small air compressor will do wonders for the inside of the tube to make sure that there is not water being sucked in by your engine.








Re-connect all lines how they were once cleaned and dried. It is a good idea to clean off the valve cover aswell to check later to see if you fixed the problem








I hope that clears things up a bit! (Get it?? Hahaha)

-Pat

-Pat

I am now a dealer for Iron Rock Off Road
I offer the same great products you already know about,
the same low prices you have been seeing, and with
the same experienced customer support, but I can offer it nearly 24/7

"Project Dirty Princess"
5.9 ZJ 7" IRO, 35s, 8.8, hp30, locked, blah blah

"Project Grow A Set"

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMARJEEP View Post
Those tires look freakin awesome Redhat... took the ZJ up a notch in my book. Now you're at notch 2.
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post #3 of 22 Old 12-28-2007, 06:33 AM
greasefingers
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Good job. And the parts are cheap from the dealer. Now you will not have any oil collecting onto of the air filter.
This orfice the actual CCV valve, below, is what usually clogs and you can not get to it without damaging the rubber gromet that it seats into.

Cheers Steve

94 Black Laredo 4-Liter with QuadraTrac (42RE trans & NP249 TC) 200,000 + miles purchased new

88 Cherokee 2-door with 5speed manual 139K miles(deceased) purchased new
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post #4 of 22 Old 06-30-2013, 09:23 AM
bravekate
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" Once you take those off, pull the elbow and grommet (rubber fitting) from the engine." Love how easy you make this sound. I've been trying to get it out for 2 days! HELP!!!
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post #5 of 22 Old 06-30-2013, 02:49 PM
Oldfrog
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I suggest a having a shop vac with a home made nozzle handy to get the broken pieces out of there after they fall in. Or do it when you change the valve cover gasket.

2007 5.7 Hemi, Ltd. QD II -
1997 ZJ, 4,0 select trac, Up country, track lok.
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post #6 of 22 Old 06-30-2013, 05:11 PM
Jenglish
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nice... darn hoses.
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post #7 of 22 Old 06-30-2013, 07:14 PM
underpowered
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i ended up busting the elbows up to remove them with some needle nose pliers afterward.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #8 of 22 Old 04-09-2015, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bravekate View Post
" Once you take those off, pull the elbow and grommet (rubber fitting) from the engine." Love how easy you make this sound. I've been trying to get it out for 2 days! HELP!!!
and this is where i'm at :P oh, gotta love super old parts on these jeeps! :P I love this forum though!!
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post #9 of 22 Old 04-09-2015, 06:28 AM
wkbear
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I was changing the valve cover gaskets and wanted to change the pcv and grommet. It was rock hard. I used a heat gun, which softened it up pretty good. Still broke onto pieces, but was a lot easier. Used a screw driver and pliers to get it since it was hot.

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post #10 of 22 Old 04-09-2015, 07:18 PM
coralman
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The 30,000 mile thing is the key. Get those bad boys out before they go rock hard.

Info on projects and repairs categorized by system
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/c...-faqs-2863665/

Originally Posted by HighLonesome
lol...if life is as a simple as a 5.9 making you happy, I'd say go ahead and buy it on impulse. ZJs are the way of Zen. Wax on, wax off
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post #11 of 22 Old 04-10-2015, 08:23 AM
AVR2
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My 93 uses twist-lock elbows that just turn 90 degrees. So much easier than having to pry out those press-fit grommets that invariably disintegrate into pieces.
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post #12 of 22 Old 04-11-2015, 08:53 PM
philio
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wouldnt it b logical to have replacements b4 changing?..?im a noob broke mine in million pieces eventually getting out but i dont have replacements!!wow
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post #13 of 22 Old 04-11-2015, 09:10 PM
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Guess I'm adding this to my to-do list before it's too late and they get too hard.
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post #14 of 22 Old 04-16-2015, 12:07 PM
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Anyone know any tricks to remove the old elbows and grommets? I bought everything needed and proceeded to tackle the job this morning. I started with the front and it literally took blood and sweat to remove them but they did come out after a couple of hours. My old grommets are almost as hard as plastic now.



The rear one doesn't look any better and the location doesn't help either. I figured I'll take a break and see if I can learn of an easier way beforehand. I think I'm gona have to buy a new rubber hose/reducer for the rear one anyway since that feels as hard as plastic too.
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post #15 of 22 Old 04-16-2015, 12:18 PM
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Easiest way it to just replace the valve cover gasket at the same time. Its probably leaking anyway.

I've replaced those once on my 94....

1994 ZJ-I6 w/216,000 mi
1998 ZJ 5.9 w/65,155 mi Slate Black
2004 KJ w/90,300 mi
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