How to remove control arm bushings , easily - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 54 Old 12-29-2012, 06:54 PM
gs69350
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I love the install video..... WHAM! just like that, you're done.


1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited - Stone White - Stock for now.
http://www.facebook.com/groups/59limited/ <-- 5.9 Owner's group on FB.
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post #17 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 12:32 AM
jeepinbassist
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So would the first and second kit require me to use the old bushing sleeves?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...m_bushing.html
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post #18 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 12:41 AM
jeepinbassist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbassist View Post
So would the first and second kit require me to use the old bushing sleeves?
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...m_bushing.html
Nevermind I found my answer. How much harder is it to replace them with poly bushings?
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post #19 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 02:29 AM
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I'd say poly bushings are easier as you leave the metal sleeve in the arm, so there's no force required. Just burn out the old rubber, clean up the inside of the sleeve (I used a wire brush on a drill), and push the new poly inserts in by hand.

Only don't do what I did, which was to burn out the rubber at one end of the control arm, get distracted, and then try and pick up the arm by the hot end having forgotten to put a glove on first...
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post #20 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
newfieZJ
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My experience with poly bushings in general : garbage .

Recently bought a XJ . Came with a RE lift . Rear springs had poly bushings . They lasted 3 years and were toasted causing the bolt/sleeve to ride and knock on the shackle .

Poly does not retain shape like a good clevite bushing will . This is bad for anyone who wants to flex off road . In short time , the sleeve ovals out the bushing and creates play . After that it's just a matter of time before it splits . Street use only and they will last longer . However I still don't see this as an upgrade over a new set of solid stock bushings , or even an equal . Claytons , JKS , IRO just to name the top names in the jeep world all use stock bushings in their control arms . Performance and longevity , it doesn't get any better .

As for what's easier , I don't see anything being easier than what was demonstrated on my video .
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post #21 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 10:58 AM
jeepinbassist
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Ok thanks newfie. Is there any difference in bushing size from front to rear or are all lower bushings the same and all upper bushings the same? Because everywhere I look they say front lower or rear lower. But its seems to me like they would all be the same bushing.
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post #22 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newfieZJ View Post
As for what's easier , I don't see anything being easier than what was demonstrated on my video .
Pointing a torch at the bushing and relaxing for a few minutes with a beverage while the flame does its stuff is preferable to me than having to whale away with a hammer. The minimum-effort option is always the best as far as I'm concerned
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post #23 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
Pointing a torch at the bushing and relaxing for a few minutes with a beverage while the flame does its stuff is preferable to me than having to whale away with a hammer. The minimum-effort option is always the best as far as I'm concerned
Then consider how weak you make those parts by applying heat . Ask how tight is that bushing if you can press it on with your hand yet expect it to control 4000lbs ? You don't see poly bushings on any stock automobiles because rubber is better .

Mentioning the beverage wasn't fair . In my defense , have a beer in between control arms . You won't get thirsty



Bushings are all the same size . I believe I listed the part#'s for NAPA on the first page
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post #24 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newfieZJ View Post
Then consider how weak you make those parts by applying heat
If the metal itself was glowing red, then maybe, but it doesn't.

Quote:
You don't see poly bushings on any stock automobiles because rubber is better
Rubber is *cheaper*, certainly, which is always a major consideration for auto manufacturers, at least as far as mainstream vehicles go. Saving a cent or two per bushing by using rubber rather than poly makes a massive difference to the bottom line. Poly bushings are well accepted in the performance car world as providing sharper, tighter handling than rubber, but that point is arguable as far as hulking great SUVs with solid axles go. For me, the improvement in handling of my ZJ with the poly bushings is noticeable and I like it. Other people's M may V
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post #25 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVR2 View Post
If the metal itself was glowing red, then maybe, but it doesn't.

Rubber is *cheaper*, certainly, which is always a major consideration for auto manufacturers, at least as far as mainstream vehicles go. Saving a cent or two per bushing by using rubber rather than poly makes a massive difference to the bottom line. Poly bushings are well accepted in the performance car world as providing sharper, tighter handling than rubber, but that point is arguable as far as hulking great SUVs with solid axles go. For me, the improvement in handling of my ZJ with the poly bushings is noticeable and I like it. Other people's M may V
Every website I look at the kits are always cheaper for the poly bushings, rubber ones are $20-$40 more.
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post #26 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 06:50 PM
jeepinbassist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newfieZJ View Post
Then consider how weak you make those parts by applying heat . Ask how tight is that bushing if you can press it on with your hand yet expect it to control 4000lbs ? You don't see poly bushings on any stock automobiles because rubber is better .

Mentioning the beverage wasn't fair . In my defense , have a beer in between control arms . You won't get thirsty



Bushings are all the same size . I believe I listed the part#'s for NAPA on the first page
So the upper and lower are the same ones also? So you just need 16 of the same ones?
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post #27 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbassist View Post
So the upper and lower are the same ones also? So you just need 16 of the same ones?
All lowers are the same , all uppers are smaller but all the same .
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post #28 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 08:01 PM
jeepinbassist
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Oh ok. Why does every website list them like the front bushings are different from the rear?
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post #29 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
newfieZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinbassist View Post
Oh ok. Why does every website list them like the front bushings are different from the rear?
Haven't touched the back bushings in a while but now recall that would be right , they are slightly (1/4'ish) wider . Sorry , do the fronts all the time , 5 yrs since I did a rear set . Uppers are still all the same

ZJ's have a hollowed bushing on the axle side of the lower control arm both front and rear . The front's take a beating and fail on every ZJ I have seen . And , it's really just these 2 bushings that need replacing to see a substantial improvement in the suspension . The rest usually show typical small cracking but still do their jobs . Try just the front lower bushings before going all in . Then do the sway bar frame bushings frt and rear . You'll swear it rides like new
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post #30 of 54 Old 07-15-2013, 09:19 PM
jeepinbassist
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Just for the hell of it I'm going to all all of them.
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