How To Rebuild Your Saginaw ZJ Steering Gear - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-05-2013, 12:49 PM   #46
coralman
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It is a crappy picture but it kinda looks like it mighy have a lip. I'd call them and ask.

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Unread 04-18-2013, 08:10 AM   #47
pah556
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Hello, My name is Theo and am from Sweden.
Stoney1r, how much do you know about the saginaw 708 steering box used in the Dodge W200?
Iīm in the process of putting power steering on mine.
I have bought a saginaw 708 power steering box with standard rotation (previous owner found out it didnīt work on his W200, because of steering to the left, but car turning to the right).
Reason I bought this one is, that I might be able to convert this one to reverse rotation with the parts in the manual reverse rotion gear box that is on the car right now, plus it was much cheaper, since he couldnīt use it anymore.
Itīs pretty expensive to have a power steering box shipped over from the US to Sweden.
Since it is only the worm gear that is different (?), do you think it is possible to only swap the parts from the manual box over to the power steering gear box?
In the beginning of this thread, on the first pic it looks like the worm gear is a separate part from the "extension" that supposedly is the "power part".
If you know what I mean.











This is the power steering unit that I bought, Lares reman standard rotation rock auto part# 1074, input shaft 13/16.

Iīm not quite sure what input shaft diameter is on the original manual steering on the truck right now.

If you have a problem with this being a Dodge thing, maybe you can provide with some links to companies that source these parts.
I have emailed Lares corp. and they asked a bunch of questions first to determine what kind of box I had, specs on it and pics, but then suddenly they responded with, "sorry we donīt sell parts that way".
Then why ask a bunch of questions in the first place???
Waisted time for nothing...

Thanks for any reply.
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Unread 04-18-2013, 09:02 AM   #48
OverlandZJ
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Theo, your box is marked AGR. Perhaps contact them directly..

http://www.agrperformance.com/
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Unread 04-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #49
Smokey1r
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The steering gear you have is defiantly for right hand steering and if you have a vehicle for left hand steering it will not work at all.
You will not be able to interchange parts from a manual steering gear, different design and parts no matter if its left or right hand steering.
If your looking to convert to a left hand steering box everything in the right hand box is interchangeable with the exception of the steering gear body and the rack piston nut, but that's gear ratio dependent.
Yes the worm shaft separates from the stub shaft / valve body assembly.
If your looking for a left handed steering box you need to look harder for one locally otherwise you will have to pay for the shipping.
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Unread 12-21-2013, 08:33 PM   #50
RandyP
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Smokey1r,
Great write up on Saginaw steering box rebuild. Thanks for posting it.

I am replacing the steering box in an older jeep with a rebuilt unit from NAPA. I noticed that the torsion bar (about 5/16" in diameter) extends from the stub shaft (about a 1/2" long extension) on the rebuilt gear box. The existing box in the jeep has a torsion bar that is cut square with the end of the stub shaft (matches the pictures of the stub shaft/torsion bar end in your rebuild). I am considering cutting the torsion bar off flush with the end of the stub shaft (of course carefully with a sawsall, keeping metal out of the gap between the torsion bar and stub shaft and keeping heat down. I do not have room for this torsion bar protrusion from the end of the stub shaft in my setup.

Do you have any comment pro or con regarding this fix for my purpose noted above ?

RandyP
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Unread 12-21-2013, 08:43 PM   #51
Smokey1r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyP View Post
Smokey1r,
Great write up on Saginaw steering box rebuild. Thanks for posting it.

I am replacing the steering box in an older jeep with a rebuilt unit from NAPA. I noticed that the torsion bar (about 5/16" in diameter) extends from the stub shaft (about a 1/2" long extension) on the rebuilt gear box. The existing box in the jeep has a torsion bar that is cut square with the end of the stub shaft (matches the pictures of the stub shaft/torsion bar end in your rebuild). I am considering cutting the torsion bar off flush with the end of the stub shaft (of course carefully with a sawsall, keeping metal out of the gap between the torsion bar and stub shaft and keeping heat down. I do not have room for this torsion bar protrusion from the end of the stub shaft in my setup.

Do you have any comment pro or con regarding this fix for my purpose noted above ?

RandyP
Id say go ahead and cut it as its just excess that was sloppily cut when manufactured, the only concern i have is invalidating any type of warranty Napa provides for the box.

Wouldn't worry about heat generation with cutting, if you do choose to cut it?.

Most likely the stub shaft was from an older steering gear when the box was rebuilt.
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Unread 12-22-2013, 06:40 PM   #52
speedbucket
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Nice writeup.....
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Unread 12-22-2013, 07:19 PM   #53
Smokey1r
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Nice writeup.....
Thanks, was a fun little project!.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 08:10 PM   #54
RandyP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokey1r View Post
Id say go ahead and cut it as its just excess that was sloppily cut when manufactured, the only concern i have is invalidating any type of warranty Napa provides for the box.

Wouldn't worry about heat generation with cutting, if you do choose to cut it?.

Most likely the stub shaft was from an older steering gear when the box was rebuilt.
I cut it off, installed the steering gear, rebuilt pump, new hoses. Had some disappointment when the power steering seemed to stop assisting after high speed runs on the freeway. With time, the loss of power assist ceased. I think there was air bubbles in the fluid and it took a while to dissipate. The steering works great now.
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Unread 01-29-2014, 09:40 PM   #55
Smokey1r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyP View Post
I cut it off, installed the steering gear, rebuilt pump, new hoses. Had some disappointment when the power steering seemed to stop assisting after high speed runs on the freeway. With time, the loss of power assist ceased. I think there was air bubbles in the fluid and it took a while to dissipate. The steering works great now.
Glad ya got it working!!!

Ya need to burp the system and top off prior to normal use by turning the steering lock to lock about 20 or so times with the front wheels off the ground so you get all the air bubbles out, but it sounds like ya worked them out while driving.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:12 PM   #56
CO_crawler
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Originally Posted by Smokey1r View Post
Its best to remove the steering gear to replace the stub shaft seals and yes you can remove just enough of the stub shaft assembly to replace the seals only, just pre-mark the position of the adjuster plug on the steering gear housing.
Once you have the seals replaced and at the point of repositioning the adjuster plug its a good practice to see if there's any play that has developed with the thrust bearings usually it will be the concave thrust plates on the worm shaft side that have flattened out is the main cause of any potential play.
if your adjuster plug tightens beyond the mark then this has happened and the best thing to do is remark the new spot where you can no longer tighten the adjuster plug (WITHOUT FORCING IT!) set the thrust bearing preload at about 5 inch pounds or about 3/8th of an inch looser from the new mark, if you don't have an inch pound torque wrench then do it by feel, tighten till you feel the thrust bearing binding a little bit then slowly back off the adjuster plug till it feels smooth again to rotate the stub shaft.
This will be close to the equivalent of 5 inch pounds of preload. (ask me how i know this!)

Far a the Over center adjustment goes if there's no play by feel at the center travel of the stub shaft then there's no real reason to even bother with it, but if you feel some play at the center of travel then by all means readjust and add a few more combined inch pounds over the thrust bearing preload.
The goal of the over center adjustment is to feel an ever so SLIGHT binding (and i can't stress SLIGHT binding enough!), between the rack piston nut and the sector/pitman shaft 45 degrees either side of center of travel then you will feel it free up and there will be some play in the sector/pitman shaft till you return to center.

I dont get it? These adjustments seem fairly difficult to perform without prior knowledge.
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Unread 03-07-2015, 05:24 AM   #57
coralman
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I can't remember but there are a bunch of links under my blue link at the bottom of this post that may give you some insight. Smokey will probably post too when he sees your post.
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Unread 03-08-2015, 06:54 PM   #58
Smokey1r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_crawler View Post
I dont get it? These adjustments seem fairly difficult to perform without prior knowledge.
It sounds complicated but if you carefully look over the how to's in the FAQ about the steering gear it will become clear pretty quickly!!!

Its actually very simplistic once ya discard all the voodoo magic and myth about how complicated the steering gear is!!
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Unread 03-17-2015, 11:24 AM   #59
CO_crawler
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ok so yes when i tried to reset the preload it didnt match up on my mark. So I left it too loose and didnt tighten it and then back it off 3/8ths.

So I guess this means removing the box from the jeep and doing that. Then what its up with the overstear adjustment. I am having trouble figuring out what each of these procedures is for. Right now the steering is WAY WAY loose and I have an entire turn of wheel before the tires respond. 1 time around the block was insane!
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Unread 03-18-2015, 03:05 AM   #60
Smokey1r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO_crawler View Post
ok so yes when i tried to reset the preload it didnt match up on my mark. So I left it too loose and didnt tighten it and then back it off 3/8ths.

So I guess this means removing the box from the jeep and doing that. Then what its up with the overstear adjustment. I am having trouble figuring out what each of these procedures is for. Right now the steering is WAY WAY loose and I have an entire turn of wheel before the tires respond. 1 time around the block was insane!
Thrust bearing preload takes up the slack with the stub shaft input so theres no in or out play, this prevents rotational play in the steering.

The over center adjustment takes out the play in the sector shaft. At the top center of travel of the steering box the sector shaft should have some VERY SLIGHT binding, this keeps the steering feeling tight while going straight down the road as well as about 45 degrees of travel on both sides of center, then there will be some slight gapping on the extreme ends of rotational travel which is perfectly normal.

If you're having to turn the steering that far to get a response its important to first check the steering box out completely for any worn components or bearings, then work your way down the drag link, TRE's track arm, ball joints etc...
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