How To : Disable your alarm on your ZJ - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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post #136 of 225 Old 11-09-2011, 07:17 PM
edpmedic
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Baldwin
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http://http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl857i.htm

Hey first post and I am here with the alarm problem but have found the above site with some good info. My problem is the driver door open it and alarm goes off. Go to passenger door to disarm. I first read about the grounding of the wire but see many problems with it on some vehicles.
I took the panel off and found that removing the back window channel you can get to the switch with no problem. I am going to see about replacing both of them cause I am sure the passenger one is going to go. I do not have the key fob so I cant access the car remotely.
Now in the above web site it shows the different modules inside the glove compartment. But to gain access to the VTSS module you need to remove the dash I have tried to gain access to it to disable the system with no luck.
I did see a reference to the VTSS in it so I figured I would put the link in and hope this helps.
I was given a 1995 Grand Cherokee because the person bought a new car. They were told it had a bad head gasket and cracked head. Needed $2000.00 to fix but it just didn't make sense from what I saw and checked. I told them the I think it is the thermostat but they ordered the car already.
Turns out I was right and a new thermostat and cleaning of the ICS I am in business. It has good compression and cylinder leak down shows no problem. So I figure I can take that money and fix the alarm system the right way. The other problem is the tailgate don't open which will be my next repair tomorrow.
I'm back to having a jeep after my 1988 Cherokee gave out a couple of years ago and I have been driving a S-10 Blazer....
Can someone tell me best place to get the remote access controls. I am going to do a google search also but figure you guys would know the best place.



Last edited by edpmedic; 11-09-2011 at 07:30 PM.
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post #137 of 225 Old 11-09-2011, 08:12 PM
KoreaZJ
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Location: GANGNAM STYLE
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I bought one of these for a spare in the late '90s. It was around $100 then. Not even a radio, just an IR LED that works line-of-sight only with limited range, 10-15' with a good battery.

56009031 - Keyless entry transmitter (94-95)

$133.40 at mopar-wholesale.com
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post #138 of 225 Old 11-12-2011, 06:59 AM
ciarashutt
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mashpee MA
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anyone else uncomfortable with grounding the powered end of a wire. i feel like it could cause a fire, or a short, or even shock you when you touch the door. anyone had any problems with this? also i have a 96 zj...will this work for it?
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post #139 of 225 Old 11-12-2011, 09:17 AM
csouers
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1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarashutt
anyone else uncomfortable with grounding the powered end of a wire. i feel like it could cause a fire, or a short, or even shock you when you touch the door. anyone had any problems with this? also i have a 96 zj...will this work for it?
No. It WILL short, hence the term powered.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

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post #140 of 225 Old 11-13-2011, 10:03 AM
edpmedic
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KoreaZJ View Post
I bought one of these for a spare in the late '90s. It was around $100 then. Not even a radio, just an IR LED that works line-of-sight only with limited range, 10-15' with a good battery.

56009031 - Keyless entry transmitter (94-95)

$133.40 at mopar-wholesale.com
Yea I been looking around and I see them on e-bay for has low has $10.00. I see them on one site for $49.00 and has high as $200.00 OEM
I'm going to see how much it costs to have them programmed and most likely pick one or two up for e-bay price.

I fixed the tail gate and need to deal with the Info center. It was not working until I messed with the door lock alarm switch. Now it shows low coolant and rear lights... SO thats my next step. Hope it is only the bulbs like they say in the search I did and Ill deal with either a new coolant sensor or try the resistor trick.

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post #141 of 225 Old 11-13-2011, 10:33 AM
sebian
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Location: Austin
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Programming the IR keyfob is pretty easy. You don't actually need to have them programmed by a dealer. IIRC just jump in the Jeep, manually lock the drivers door with the slider lock, turn ignition to ON position (but do not start the Jeep) aim the keyfob at the receiver on the ceiling in your Jeep, and press and hold the unlock button until the doors unlock. It has been a while since I have done it, so you might need to press and hold the lock button.

1995 ZJ 5.2L V8 318. 230,000 miles and still rollin.

List of parts not replaced yet:
...
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post #142 of 225 Old 11-20-2011, 09:11 PM
JSGrind
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has anyone figured out what the key switch wires are, black and purple.yellow I've assumed that he purple/yellow is power. Is black ground? While the alarm was going off today I had a wire that was spliced to the purple and i grounded it and it disarmed.

Why couldn't we connect the black and purple together?
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post #143 of 225 Old 11-20-2011, 09:38 PM
csouers
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You probably can. The black is a ground. I doubt the VT/YL wire is powered. Probably grounds through the BCM and when when the other end grounds, it completes the circuit and disables the alarm.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

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post #144 of 225 Old 11-22-2011, 12:58 AM
JSGrind
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found this thread...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/m...onkers-369743/

the guy never said if it works, idk what the hell is going on with my jeep, but it drives me nuts that my interior lights stay on! CRAP!
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post #145 of 225 Old 11-25-2011, 12:01 PM
stuffhauler
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1996 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Arab
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mofo13 View Post
Hey, guys, just offering up an alternative method to disarming the OE ZJ alarm for those that don't want to create any new holes or cut any wires. I like to be able to easily restore things to their original condition as easily as possible (if ever needed) so here's what I did:

1. Remove all the screws holding in the door panel (see TS' picutre).
2. Remove door panel.
3. Peel back most of the plastic sheeting (just enough to access what you need to....which is about 1/5 to 2/3 of it). Try not to let it fold back on itself since the edges have an adhesive on them.
4. The violet wire with the yellow tracer, along with a black ground wire, go most of the way through the main harness in the door before branching off and ending in their own connector. This connector then mates to a ~2ft harness, containing green and black wires, that connects to the back of the lock cycliner. The 'green + black' wire harness that goes to the lock cylinder is held in place by sliding onto a bracket on the inside of the door frame. You can remove it from the door frame by carefully sliding it off the post.
5. Once the 'green + black' wire harness is off the post, you can disconnect it from the 'violet/yellow + black' wire harness you need.
6. Create a jumper to plug into the sockets of the connector with the violet/yellow and black wires. This is what will ground the violet/yellow line. I found that the center conductor of a piece of regular household coax works quite well (just cut off the sleeving, dielectric, etc... and discard them). I had a piece of 18-gauge wires but it was a little too small so maybe a 16-gauge (or 14-gauge?) would work well. I just formed a U-shape out of the copper conductor and trimmed the ends so that it didn't stick out of the connector.
7. Once you have your jumper cut/shaped to your liking, insulate the portion of it that would be exposed when it's plugged into the connector.
8. Insert the jumper and cap off the connector. I masked it off with electrical tape.
9. Cap off the other connector and slide it back onto its retaining post inside the door frame.
10. Tie off the harness you just jumpered to the rest of the main door harness (I used cable ties).
11. Replace the plastic sheeting in the door.
12. Replace the door panel.
13. Replace the screws for the door panel.

Your power locks will still work and when you lock your Jeep you'll no longer see 'Security' light up on the dash.

Door panel and sheeting off:


Violet/yellow + black wire harness disconnected from lock cylinder harness:


Other end of the lock cylinder harness (black connector):


Jumper shaped, cut, and in place:


Both connectors capped and tapped off:


Violet/yellow + black harness cable tied to main door harness:


Plastic sheeting back on:


Hope this is useful for anyone that doesn't want to cut any wires or tap any extra holes.

BTW, does anyone know what the connector to the left of where the armrest post is? It wasn't connected to anything when I was taking the door panel off and I don't know what it's for.
I did the jumper on the connector as shown in post #21 on my 96 model and the interior lights would not go off.
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post #146 of 225 Old 11-25-2011, 01:02 PM
csouers
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This does not work for 96-98. You either have to actually fix it or unlock and lock the door every time you lock it to make the red flashing light by the windshield turn off.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

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post #147 of 225 Old 11-30-2011, 07:13 PM
longtravel1
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Does anyone know if the alarm will cause no spark to the coil? I dont have a key fob, just a plain old key. My 95ZJ V-8 does not get spark now. When the lights flash I put key in the door and unlock it shutting off the lights, and assume the alarm.
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post #148 of 225 Old 11-30-2011, 07:21 PM
csouers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longtravel1
Does anyone know if the alarm will cause no spark to the coil? I dont have a key fob, just a plain old key. My 95ZJ V-8 does not get spark now. When the lights flash I put key in the door and unlock it shutting off the lights, and assume the alarm.
Yes. It kills both spark and fuel I believe. If the lights stop flashing, you've disarmed it. You have other issues here.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

My Photography
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post #149 of 225 Old 12-17-2011, 06:56 PM
Scott96LT1
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1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Dearborn Heights
Posts: 3
I just installed a Viper remote start/keyless/alarm. I thought I had the right violet/yellow wire in the kick panel but the factory alarm went off and the vehicle would start then shut off almost immediately. I found this thread, ripped the door panel off and bridged the wires through the connector. It worked so I cut the plug off and crimp capped the violet/yellow and black wire together. Now I can move on to the other things I need to fix on my Jeep.

96 Chevy Camaro Z28
07 Cadillac CTS-V
94 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
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post #150 of 225 Old 01-15-2012, 05:30 PM
ZJeepn08
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2007 WK 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Missouri
Posts: 52
Im resurecting this ***** from the dead. lol. So, I did the purple/yelow ground in the door and now my security light is on constantly. The jeep runs and drives fine but the light will not go off now. Any ideas?
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