Thanks for this thread, before i used some seafoam, i took the idel air controller out and sure enough it was black. I didnt use chemicals to clean it tho i just used a clean rag and wiped it down until it was shiny again.
I cant say that it changed anything to my IDLE but at least its clean lol
Cleaned mine also. I used brake parts cleaner (good stuff) and a dremel with a soft wire brush, though I forgot to disconnect the battery, so I guess Ill go do that, so it can relearn everything.......
1997 ZJ Laredo
Plenty of lights
Why does the battery need to be unhooked.. I just thought it was a safety thing they asj you to do. Is it so it'll go through a relearn.
... While I worked at Jeep CHRYSLER. I think we charge 1 1/2 hr time to clean these. At $90.00 an hour that'll sure get your pocket book fast.
My 1997 Jeep ZJ was idling a little rough; jumping between 600 & 800 rpm while stopped and in-gear. After reading this post, I checked my IAC value and it looked the same as the pictures (nice job on the post!). I used carb-cleaner sprayed onto a clean rag and a small course brush to clean it. DEFINITELY UNHOOK the battery while cleaning the IAC as the computer will need to be reset when the ‘clean’ IAC is reinstalled. Now my ZJ idles beautifully at 400 rpm when stopped and in-gear.
My 96 Jeep Grand Cheroke 4.0 idles at 2600 RPMs only when it's in park. I cleaned the IAC as shown and also the throttle body pretty well with throttle body cleaner. I forgot to unhook the battery, so I'm doing that now.
Could my problem be something else? Everybody is complaining about a range of 400 rpm difference...I'm at 2600!
So my ZJ 5.9L is vibrating quite a lot when idle (a little less vibration after I got the Engine/Trans mounts replaced). And I recall to read on this forum that rough idle or vibration is related to a dirty or faulty IAC? So could it be the same case for Jeep?
Other thing was that I had 1 cylinder misfiring, because of a faulty spark-plug. That might also added to the vibration that time.
To Dodgeram1989...Why not try cleaning the IAC? Follow the post by HALEYRZ with all the pictures and do not forget to disconnect the battery first!! Plus after the IAC is clean and replaced your vehicle may be tough to start and run rough for a few seconds. But only until the computer re-adjusts itself. This is an easy do-it-youself job and it might fix your 20-second startup time. It might even fix your idling with the A/C on problem too.
Thanks for posting the info on how to clean the valve. My jeep is a 94 country 4.0 so the design is not the same, but it did help. It was covered in solid carbon. I cleaned it and put it back in my car, but it didn't do the entire trick. It was better, but not there yet. I went ahead and got a new one.
Well the new one was still better than before, but it didn't cure my problem. It's still not idling properly and it sputters when accelerating.
I cleaned out the air intake, replaced the distributor cap, wires, rotor and fuel filter, but it still has not solved the problem.
It would sputter just slightly in the past, but since I had the transmission rebuilt and possibly also when I sprayed throttle body cleaner spray into the air intake it has not been right. I hope the transmission had nothing to do with it; I doubt it, but who knows.
I'm still trying to solve the puzzle. I have 383K on the jeep and want to keep it past 500k so I have to get this puppy going.
But, anyway, enough about my issues. Thanks for the post.
Been having the same problem lately except mine was idling really low or just stalling most of the time any time I let off the throttle. I started with replacing the fuel filter. When I got underneath my YJ, I noticed the filter that was on was really small and the one I bought, which was a factory exact fit, was significantly larger. The previous owner took A LOT of shortcuts on damn near everthing and I've been slowly finding things after the 3 years I've owned this Jeep. Anyways, When I did the swap, it didnt fix my stalling problem. Glad I can always rely on this forum for excellent write-ups. I pulled the IAC and lo and behold...it was caked in black. I used PB Blaster to clean it up and the inside and around the TB and spacer. Just put everything back together and it was the trick I've been looking for. Thanks for the help and the write-up. You've just made my day and saved me $67 at Napa for a replacement IAC.