How big of a difference do gears make? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 28 Old 07-25-2011, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
Tdaz250
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I think the highest I would go is 4.56 ratio anyways. I just don't see myself running more then 32's or 33's at the most.


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post #17 of 28 Old 07-25-2011, 04:58 PM
tato1111
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To me, They make a huge diffrence. Living in the mountains it is one of the single most important upgrades i have on my jeep.

White zj 6in. 33x12.5 1995

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post #18 of 28 Old 07-25-2011, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
Tdaz250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tato1111
To me, They make a huge diffrence. Living in the mountains it is one of the single most important upgrades i have on my jeep.
What did you go from and to ? I live in a pretty hilly area in Oregon so I'm curious...

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post #19 of 28 Old 07-25-2011, 08:23 PM
biggoofy
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Just get a d44 front and you will have a larger ring and pinion. My 4.88s im putting in my hp44 are bretty damn big!

Zack

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post #20 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 12:12 AM
lateralus3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z71tbi

If ya planning 35s, 4.88s would match up better ratio wise. Even more so important sense you have the 4.slo. If ya had a v8 it would be so bad.

Gear price shouldnt change with the ratio chosen, having that little bit more of power with a little deeper gears it worth it.

Can neva go wrong with More Power.....
I know 4.88s are what I should have but I'm not comfortable with that small pinion in the d30. Plus I'm in Kansas and it's flat as he'll where I'm at

Jacob

1994 grand cherokee laredo 4.0 IRO 5.5 critical path long arm kit and OTK steering 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2's

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post #21 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 05:13 AM
melk
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Zack what did you pull your front d44 from?
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post #22 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 05:22 AM
AlphaLorde
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I'm in the process of buildin up a hp30. I would like it to be as strong as possible.

I was reading in one of my FourWheeler mags about cryogenics. Basically it is soaking metal in liquid nitrogen, to change the state of the metal.

On a dana 30 gear set they claimed after being treated it became just as strong as a dana 44 gear set. Cost it really nice too. They paid $50 plus shipping in the mag. I have a local place that will do it for about the same.

It is my plan to make my hp30 as strong as I can get it. I only wanna build it once.

1998 ZJ Laredo 5.2L 139k 231 w/SYE artec trussed 8.8 4.25"F/5"R lift
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post #23 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 07:07 AM
ratmonkey
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cryo treating the gears is not something you want to do on a full time rig that sees dd duties.
the gears aren't stronger, they are harder to break.
cryo treating the gears makes them deflect more before breaking and they wear significantly faster.

if you "know" you're going to be running tires or horsepower that will break the axle you're running, step up to the next level axle instead of throwing good money after bad.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #24 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 07:25 AM
AlphaLorde
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Is the deflect you are talking about the metal bending some??

And how do they wear faster??

With the cryo process don't the atoms get tighter together and interlock together better? So therefore stronger?

Please explain stronger vs harder to break.

So if this is explained it would answer my next question, why not dd duties?

Sorry for so many questions rat, but you have great knowledge to share. I guess fourwheeler should have explained more.

1998 ZJ Laredo 5.2L 139k 231 w/SYE artec trussed 8.8 4.25"F/5"R lift
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post #25 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 07:47 AM
ratmonkey
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cryo treating takes the hardness out of the metal. harder metal is more brittle. so while it's stronger, once you get to the break point it shatters. cryo treating makes the metal bend a little and take some of the force that would have concentrated into a fracture and deflects the metal elastically.

taking the hardness out of the metal makes it more forgiving of shock loads and less forgiving of long term wear.

none of the major shops i've seen discuss it online recommend the process for any parts in a dd.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #26 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 08:15 AM
yotefever
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Here is some info on cryo treating. I had only heard it used on barrels, I know Kreiger Barrels has a big tank of liquid nitrogen.
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html
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post #27 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 09:09 AM
speedbucket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotefever View Post
Here is some info on cryo treating. I had only heard it used on barrels, I know Kreiger Barrels has a big tank of liquid nitrogen.
http://www.cdpautomachine.com/ecatalog/cryo.html
good read, especially the second paragraph, Benellis super black eagle II barrels are also cryo treated. mine patterns anything you shoot out of it very well and consistently vs other shotguns i have patterned

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #28 of 28 Old 07-26-2011, 09:42 AM
KyBoy1991
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i have 4.56s in my DD with D30 & D35 running 32x11.50 and when i play in them mud change over to 33x10.50 Swamper Boggers.

I HIGHLY recommend going to 4.56s. I didn't know the stuff about the 488s that have been said, but I don't see me going any bigger on the tires. MAYBE 35s if I get the Iceland Offroad flares, but not likely.

Bottom line, get/plan on 4.56s and you'll be happy. The whole 4slo crap goes away, cause I just went thru a mud run and beat several v8s times. It has plenty of torque with that gearing and can be driven daily without troubles....at least I haven't had troubles. I also have lockers front and rear.
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