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Unread 08-24-2013, 04:58 PM   #31
nodoze
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My build sheet was emailed to me today, on a SATURDAY. It doesn't look like I have the up country. I'll post it when i get home to a computer. They also let me know about recall info. That's great service! :-)

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Unread 08-24-2013, 05:08 PM   #32
WhiteOut
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I had the rust on the lip of the hatch too, bedliner fixed that quickly.



It looks like you might have a leaky rear pinion or the seal on the rear diff is bad.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #33
nodoze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post

It looks like you might have a leaky rear pinion or the seal on the rear diff is
Thanks! Why do you say that? Did you notice something on my pic? I haven't really look at the differential much yet but i noticed the t case is leaking some.
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Unread 08-25-2013, 02:13 AM   #34
phitmein
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
I had the rust on the lip of the hatch too, bedliner fixed that quickly.



It looks like you might have a leaky rear pinion or the seal on the rear diff is bad.
Yep, I saw that too in his picture of the backend underside and stayed silent for the moment.

I was thinking rear hoghead cover seal maybe .

It's a new ride for him and if I were him, I would change most all the fluids, filters and gaskets associated with them as well a greasing all the fittings .

Just me, but a good plan and very easy to do yourself .

A tranny band adjustment is not too hard either if you should go that routine tranny wise and filter.
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Unread 08-25-2013, 02:31 AM   #35
nodoze
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edited out, see next post
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:25 AM   #36
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See your post #19 here on this thread where you can see the blue shocks .

Note the oily look on the edges of the rear diff. cover.

It may be just the rear diff. cover seal (as I suspect ) and could be as easy as tightning the bolts but it looks to have lost gear oil too .

I very much doubt, that you have a real problem so far if you fix it now and change/add oil and stop the seepage.

Don't sweat it Bro. because if it was bad you would hear and feel it most likely, but do note that it looks greasy/oily .

It would not look that way, if something either wasn't going on at one time or now .

Check the front diff. too as a good game plan .

If it's the rear pinion seal there will be oil from it's front all the way to it's back and if it is just the cover seal it will only be on the back of the diff.

Pretty darn easy peasy maybe Cuz.

Just say'n .
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:38 AM   #37
nodoze
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It looks like you guys were right, good catch on that. I appreciate it.

I went out and looked at it. I took the rubber plug off, and the fluid is filled to the top of the hole. At first glance it appeared to be the lower gasket on the cover that was leaking, but the differential has fluid on it going up to the drive shaft part. The upper part toward the front of the Jeep appears to be the part leaking.

That's the pinion gasket I'm assuming then? I read on the forum here that you have to pre-load and torque some shims and it's a pain, and the dealer should be able to fix it for maybe $90? Does that sound right? If it's that involved, and that cheap, I would be taking it to the dealer.

I've only had the Jeep for a few days now, but I was definitely planning on doing the transfer case gaskets and fluid first, then the differentials and finally the transmission fluid/filter/gasket.
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:42 AM   #38
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One thing that really puzzles me here ?

I have never had a Jeep with skid plates but I have had cars and cycles with them .

In you post # 19 that is a very thin SP compaired to what I have had ?

Others that have them on Jeeps, what do yea say ?

Is that a stock skid ?
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:53 AM   #39
nodoze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phitmein View Post
One thing that really puzzles me here ?

I have never had a Jeep with skid plates but I have had cars and cycles with them .

In you post # 19 that is a very thin SP compaired to what I have had ?

Others that have them on Jeeps, what do yea say ?

Is that a stock skid ?
Here's the skid stuff from my build sheet:

ADLP Skid Plate Group
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
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Unread 08-25-2013, 03:58 AM   #40
nodoze
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and my whole build sheet:

Thank you for contacting the Jeep Customer Assistance Center.

We are pleased to provide vehicle build information per your request.

According to our records, your vehicle was equipped from the factory
with the following:

Sales Code Description

EL Leather Trimmed Bucket Seats
ADLP Skid Plate Group
AFFP Luxury Group
APAS Monotone Paint
ARNS Laredo Decor Group
AWL Off Road Group
BAUS 117 Amp Alternator
BCES 600 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BRGS Anti-Lock 4-Wheel-Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CFNS Rear 60/40 Folding Seat
CGWS Driver & Front Passengern Air Bags
CKDS Floor Carpet
CKNS Cargo Compartment Carpet
CKRS Cargo Net
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLES Front & Rear Floor Mats
CSAS Spare Tire Cover
CSCS Cargo Compartment Cover
CSRS Passenger Assist Handles
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
CUNP Overhead Console
DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
DGKS 4-Spd. Automatic 42RE Transmission
DHAS Lock-Up Torque Converter
DHPS Selec-Trac Full Time 4WD System
DMDS 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
DRJS 175MM Rear Axle
EAAC All Engines
ERH 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GEGP Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
GEP Flipper Liftgate Glass
GFAS Rear Window Defroster
GNCS Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors
GNKP Rear View Auto Dim Mirror
GRMP Left Power Heated Mirror
GSMP Right Power Heated Mirror
GTMS Power Heated Mirrors
GVBC All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
GXMS Keyless Entry with Panic Alarm
HAAS Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
HGDS Deluxe Insulation Group
JAYS Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCBS 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBS Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJAS Cigar Lighter
JJBS Dual Note Electric Horns
JKAS Glove Box
JPAS Power Windows
JPBS Power Locks
LACS Illuminated Entry
LAGS Warning Chime
LAZP Vehicle Information Center
LBBS Courtesy Lamps
LBCS Glove Box Lamp
LBDS Ash Tray Lamp
LDAS Underhood Lamp
LDBS Cargo Compartment Lamp
LETP Traveler/Mini Trip Computer
LMGP Automatic Headlamps
LNJP Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
LSAP Security Alarm
MFZS Bright Grille
MHAS Black Windshield Moldings
MWGS Roof Rack
NAA Federal Emissions
NBH High Altitude Emissions Tracking
NHMS Speed Control
PJ7 Char-Gold II Satin Glow
QJ7S Char-Gold Satin Glow
RAAC All Radio Equipped Vehicles
RAZ AM/FM Cassette Compact Disc Radio
RCGP 6 Speakers
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCVS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDAS Normal Duty Suspension
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBB Full Size Spare Tire
TBLS Inside Mounted Spare Tire
TRN P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires
TZAS Goodyear Brand Tires
WJ6S 15X7.0 Sport Aluminum Wheels
WKBP Matching Spare Wheel
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XEEP Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFP Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEUP Front Suspension Skid Plate
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Our records indicate that the following recall campaigns have not been
performed by an authorized dealer:

B02 FLOOR SHIFTER SECONDARY DETENT SYSTEM
E22 REPROGRAM PCM AND INSPECT CATALYTIC CONVERTER
N45 TRAILER HITCH (ZJ)***

We suggest that you contact your local authorized Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep®
or Ram dealer to make arrangements for an inspection and, if necessary,
corrective action at no charge to you.

In regards to the N45 recall, you will be notified by mail as soon as
the details are complete. We anticipate that you will receive
preliminary notification before the end of this quarter and subsequent
actions will follow after that time.

If you wish to obtain further information, please contact the Chrysler
Group Recall Assistance Center at 1-800-853-1403.
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Unread 08-25-2013, 04:09 AM   #41
phitmein
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in all truth, as long as you make sure it stays topped off with fluid, so what if it leaks some/barely .

The seepage will only help prevent some rusting issues in Minn. right ?

Just note it, keep it in mind of it's level, rate of loss and save big $ dealing with a stealership and whether their mech. can get the pinion seal/angle or whatever right .

As the old saying goes " if it ain't broke don't fix it " and in my book, if it ain't really broke don't invite new problems maybe .

Just keep you eyes on it and if it gets bad deal with it then .

KISS

No probem Mon .

Phitonit
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Unread 08-25-2013, 04:19 AM   #42
phitmein
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A simpler way of looking at what I said as per the axles .

My engine valve cover leaks a little oil, as well as my oil pan gasket, but that will not be a problem since I keep up on my oil levels .
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Unread 08-25-2013, 09:35 AM   #43
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Congrats on you 96 and nice looking ZJ! I also have the 96 4.0 Laredo and you sure have a lot of nice options I don't along with the skid plate package.

Believe you found out from your build sheet you don't have the Up-Country suspension. Think the "AWL" at the beginning of your build sheet is the code for fog lamps w/the skid plate group. Code for up-country is AWE (Laredo/Limited) or AWM (Orvis).

If you had the tow group it would say so and your rear axle gearing would be 3.73 instead of 3.55 listed. I have the tow group but no hitch or gas tank skid. Saw you mentioned Royal Purple and that's what I'm running in my D35c/194mm axle since the specs call for 70W140 synthetic with this 3.73 axle/tow group. But since I rarely tow anything anymore I'll probably be switching back to the good old 80W90 I've always used next gear oil change. Personally I think Royal Purple is overrated/overpriced and while you need friction modifiers with a LSD that's an axle I don't have.

Have also heard where friction modifiers may cause more bearing wear and the Royal Purple sure didn't quite down quiet down the high-pitched whine at freeway speeds from my pinion bearing which is most likely failing/going out. And yeah, I also have a leaky front pinion bearing seal like you do too but I just keep an eye on the fluid level.

Whoever told you the dealer will replace the pinion bearing and seal for $90 is pulling your leg! I'd jump on something like that in a heartbeat and if too good to be true it usually is.

When changing your axle gear oil forget the cover seals since you don't need them. Just use a good gasket maker like Ultra Black or Right Stuff and follow the directions before fully torquing down the cover bolts. Also had a real good Permatex rep tell me it's best to heat up the mating surfaces a little to bring the oil out of the metal to the surface than use rubbing alcohol on a rag to remove the oil residue before applying the gasket maker.

Good luck!
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Unread 08-25-2013, 08:24 PM   #44
nodoze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phitmein View Post
in all truth, as long as you make sure it stays topped off with fluid, so what if it leaks some/barely .

The seepage will only help prevent some rusting issues in Minn. right ?

Just note it, keep it in mind of it's level, rate of loss and save big $ dealing with a stealership and whether their mech. can get the pinion seal/angle or whatever right .

As the old saying goes " if it ain't broke don't fix it " and in my book, if it ain't really broke don't invite new problems maybe .

Just keep you eyes on it and if it gets bad deal with it then .

KISS

No probem Mon .

Phitonit
You definitely have a point there, and that's a good way to look at it IMHO. I think I'll clean it up and keep an eye on it. Thank you for the advice
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Unread 08-25-2013, 08:30 PM   #45
nodoze
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
Congrats on you 96 and nice looking ZJ! I also have the 96 4.0 Laredo and you sure have a lot of nice options I don't along with the skid plate package.

Believe you found out from your build sheet you don't have the Up-Country suspension. Think the "AWL" at the beginning of your build sheet is the code for fog lamps w/the skid plate group. Code for up-country is AWE (Laredo/Limited) or AWM (Orvis).

If you had the tow group it would say so and your rear axle gearing would be 3.73 instead of 3.55 listed. I have the tow group but no hitch or gas tank skid. Saw you mentioned Royal Purple and that's what I'm running in my D35c/194mm axle since the specs call for 70W140 synthetic with this 3.73 axle/tow group. But since I rarely tow anything anymore I'll probably be switching back to the good old 80W90 I've always used next gear oil change. Personally I think Royal Purple is overrated/overpriced and while you need friction modifiers with a LSD that's an axle I don't have.

Have also heard where friction modifiers may cause more bearing wear and the Royal Purple sure didn't quite down quiet down the high-pitched whine at freeway speeds from my pinion bearing which is most likely failing/going out. And yeah, I also have a leaky front pinion bearing seal like you do too but I just keep an eye on the fluid level.

Whoever told you the dealer will replace the pinion bearing and seal for $90 is pulling your leg! I'd jump on something like that in a heartbeat and if too good to be true it usually is.

When changing your axle gear oil forget the cover seals since you don't need them. Just use a good gasket maker like Ultra Black or Right Stuff and follow the directions before fully torquing down the cover bolts. Also had a real good Permatex rep tell me it's best to heat up the mating surfaces a little to bring the oil out of the metal to the surface than use rubbing alcohol on a rag to remove the oil residue before applying the gasket maker.

Good luck!
Thank you! I appreciate the advice I'd heard great things about the Royal Purple, but if I don't need the friction modifier and it can actually hurt things I'll stick to the regular oil instead.
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