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Unread 08-28-2008, 03:03 PM   #1
semperfismhs
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Help With Replacing Front Diff Pinion Seal

Okay so I have done a lot of searching and I keep on getting some very conflicting answers to this. My question is, what is the best way to go about replacing a pinion seal on my front differential? And what, if any, special tools will I need to do it? Please be as specific as possible in explaining the procedure.

Thank You

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Unread 08-28-2008, 04:29 PM   #2
semperfismhs
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anyone? char 10
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Unread 08-28-2008, 04:49 PM   #3
rqukrawler
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No special tools are needed except a torque wrench and a lever you can make yourself to hold the pinion when you torque the nut (big pipe wrench works OK too, but you didn't hear it from me).

Remove the driveshaft at the pinion, remove the nut you've just exposed, tap the yoke off with a hammer, pull the seal out (either with a puller or carefully with a big screwdriver). Clean everything up and replace the seal (spread a little grease on the lip) and reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to torque the yoke nut to the factory recommended value.

Purists will say you must replace the crush sleeve. However, to do this complicates things greatly. I've replaced yokes/seals many times and not replaced the sleeve. In all cases things have held together just fine. Technically you should also replace the nut, as it has a locking feature that doesn't work as well after being removed. I've reused as well with no problems. Use a little locktight if the nut spun off easily.

Hey, it's a Jeep you're wrenching on yourself... crawl back under there after you've run is for a hundred miles and make sure it's still nice and tight with no slop.

OK, all the purists can flame me now...
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:01 PM   #4
BradMB2004
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the ONLY way to accuratly check/set pinion preload requires removal of the carrier and then to set preload with a NEW crush sleeve. What works for some doesn't always work for others.

I may be a "pureist" or just like making things complicated, but atleast it's the right way. Just so happens it's how the FSM tells you to do it also. Cutting corners is not an option on the stuff i build where i work.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:02 PM   #5
lakailimited06
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put in a new shaft and yokes without replacing crush sleeve, all is well......so far lol
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:12 PM   #6
semperfismhs
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thanks for the response rqukrawler
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:15 PM   #7
BradMB2004
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-remove brake calipers, rotors, axle shafts, and front driveshaft

-pull cover and drain fluid, pull carrier and note orientation of caps(i check the pattern for pinion depth before removal). each cap will have a letter on it that matches up with letter on face of diff.

-check pinion preload. this will tell condition of pinion bearings, if it's way out of spec go ahead and replace the bearings(that's another story).

-remove pinion nut, yoke, seal, and crush sleeve

-install new crush sleeve, new seal, yoke, and new nut. torque until there is no more endplay. you will need a 3"+ breaker bar and yoke holder as rqukrawler mentioned. slowly torque nut until proper preload is achieved, IF you go over repeat assembly with new crush sleeve.

-reinstall carrier and check again for proper depth if so desired

-install cover, shafts, rotors, driveshaft, and calipers

eventhough it "shouldn't" change pinion depth and backlash, i still check anyway.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:17 PM   #8
semperfismhs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradMB2004 View Post
-remove brake calipers, rotors, axle shafts, and front driveshaft

-pull cover and drain fluid, pull carrier and note orientation of caps(i check the pattern for pinion depth before removal). each cap will have a letter on it that matches up with letter on face of diff.

-check pinion preload. this will tell condition of pinion bearings, if it's way out of spec go ahead and replace the bearings(that's another story).

-remove pinion nut, yoke, seal, and crush sleeve

-install new crush sleeve, new seal, yoke, and new nut. torque until there is no more endplay. you will need a 3"+ breaker bar and yoke holder as rqukrawler mentioned. slowly torque nut until proper preload is achieved, IF you go over repeat assembly with new crush sleeve.

-reinstall carrier and check again for proper depth if so desired

-install cover, shafts, rotors, driveshaft, and calipers

eventhough it "shouldn't" change pinion depth and backlash, i still check anyway.
wow this is gana end up being a bit more than i expected....
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:28 PM   #9
BradMB2004
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yeah, it's a PITA for the most part.

it's just one of those things where you have to decided between buying tools or just paying someone to do it.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 05:46 PM   #10
ArloGuthroJeep
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Another way to do it is to score the pinion and the nut in line with each other. That way when you retighten the pinion nut, you tighten it until they line up again. It is important this nut isn't too tight or too loose.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 06:47 PM   #11
rqukrawler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfismhs View Post
thanks for the response rqukrawler
No problem. And Brad is right with his instructions for doing it 'right'. That's the 'much more complicated' I talked about.

To each his own... I tend to trust my instincts, education and experience as long as I understand how it all goes together. The crush sleeve is for proper preload of the pinion bearing. This is important, without a doubt, but there is a little wiggle room.

Bottom line, know the risk and be willing to accept the possible consequence. Too tight on the pinion and it can overheat and destroy itself. Too loose and it will bang around and destroy itself.
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Another one bites the dust. Slow roll on Swamp... body is toast but the goodies will live to see another day.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 06:53 PM   #12
tsconver
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here is the correct way to do per the FSM

PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake rotors and calipers, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.
(4) Mark propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the pinion
companion flange.
(6) Rotate the pinion gear a minimum of ten times
and verify the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Record torque necessary to rotate the pinion
gear with a inch pound torque wrench.
(8) Using a short piece of pipe and Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion companion flange
and remove the pinion nut and washer.
(9) Remove pinion companion flange with Remover
C-452 and Flange Wrench C-3281.
(10) Remove pinion seal with Remover 7794-A and
a slide hammer (Fig. 31).
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal. Install seal with an appropriate
installer (Fig. 32).
(2) Install pinion companion flange on the pinion
gear with Installer W-162-D, Cup 8109 and Wrench
6958.
CAUTION: Never exceed the minimum tightening
torque 298 Nm (220 ft. lbs.) while installing pinion
nut at this point. Damage to collapsible spacer or
bearings may result.
(3) Install the pinion washer and a new nut on
the pinion gear. Tighten the nut only enough to
remove the shaft end play.
(4) Rotate pinion a minimum of ten time and verify
pinion rotates smoothly. Rotate the pinion shaft
with an inch pound torque wrench. Rotating torque
should be equal to the reading recorded during
removal plus 0.56 Nm (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 33).
(5) If the rotating torque is low, use Spanner
Wrench 6958 to hold the pinion companion flange
(Fig. 34), and tighten the pinion shaft nut in 6.8 Nm
(5 ft. lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is
achieved.
CAUTION: If maximum tightening torque is reached
prior to reaching the required rotating torque, the
collapsible spacer may have been damaged.
Replace the collapsible spacer.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 08:44 PM   #13
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RE: here is the correct way to do per the FSM

OK. 1st post ever. And this is an old thread. Hope I get a response...

Why, per the FSM, do Steps #2 & #3 need to happen??

(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake rotors and calipers, refer to 5
Brakes for procedures.

The rest seems fairly obvious.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 09:14 PM   #14
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If I'm not mistaken, the wheels and brakes add weight and resistance to the rotational torque you're trying to measure.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 01:22 AM   #15
shaban
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+1 on TSConver's quotation from FSM.

Thats the right way to do it, no need for a new crush sleeve,
unless you overtorque the old one - there is no backing off here,
you'd end up with 0 preload if you do so!
I'd order a spare one just in case.

You'd need a torque wrench, beam-type inch-pound wrench. Plus a socket to fit pinion nut, a new pinion nut, a new seal, and a lever to hold the yoke.
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