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Unread 08-05-2009, 12:45 PM   #1
Coletrickle
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Help with D35 Axle seal replacement

Hi All,

I have a leaky axle seal in my ZJ and am picking up one to replace it from NAPA on my way home.

Let me first say that I tried a search and found very little. Any links or write-ups I read about aren't working anymore from what I can tell.

I'm on a wicked budget with a new baby in the family and gearing up to build a house. The ZJ is a second vehicle that doesn't see many miles, mostly a play rig. That being said, I don't think I'll worry about replacing the wheel bearing.

What can I expect? I don't have a slide hammer, but I was thinking I'd just pry the old seal out with a little pry bar, who cares if it gets ruined...that's why I'm replacing it. I've also never had a diff. cover off so I'm clueless when it comes to c-clips and spider gears and all those lovely things in there that I've only seen pics of. I have basic hand tools, some basic mechanical skills and a sh*tload of patience.

I'm all ready to be torched, so do your worst.
Adrian

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Unread 08-05-2009, 12:58 PM   #2
elmer_fud
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I would just rent a bearing puller (free from auto zone) and pull everything out. then just reinstall the bearing and the seal.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedycat View Post
I am not one to be changing lanes at 70 mph on a lifted truck on 33's, but since I am in Miami, I have to be prepared for the continuous influx of new drivers whose previous ride was a bicycle with wooden wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, Mushroom!!! :D
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Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Or just tie a 12 lb fish to a one foot pipe.
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Unread 08-05-2009, 01:25 PM   #3
cmonson
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you are going to have to bring the axle assembly a machine shop so the bearing / seal can be pressed in.

I just did mine about 1 month ago.

You can't replace the seal without replacing the bearing and retainer.
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Unread 08-05-2009, 10:43 PM   #4
elmer_fud
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the dana 35 in zj's is a c clip version so the bearings do not need to be pressed onto the axle shaft. You can install them with a hammer and some sort of spacer to pound them in.
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95 ZJ, 5.2 V8,160,000 miles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedycat View Post
I am not one to be changing lanes at 70 mph on a lifted truck on 33's, but since I am in Miami, I have to be prepared for the continuous influx of new drivers whose previous ride was a bicycle with wooden wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, Mushroom!!! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Or just tie a 12 lb fish to a one foot pipe.
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Unread 08-06-2009, 06:22 AM   #5
Yardman Harry
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put your jeep in 4low. Chock your front wheels, loosen the lugs on your rear tires, jack up the rear, pull the tires, and the brake drums (or calipers and rotors). You may need to remove the rear drive shaft so that you can rotate the pinion easily. Place an oil pan under the differential

1.Take all the bolts of the diff cover out leaving the top two bolts in but very loose.

2. use a rubber mallot and wack the diff cover to break the seal. (alternatively you could gently pry the cover off with a screw driver)

4. allow the diff to drain and remove the top two bolts completely removing the diff cover.

5. at this point, you can spray the inside out with brake cleaner and let that dry... or commence work, your choice. If you spray now you dont have to work in an oily mess, but you will have to spray again later.

6. there is a tiny bolt (called a lock screw) that holds the pinion shaft in

The metal rod in the middle is called the pinion shaft, the lock screw will be on either end of the rod, you will have to rotate the carrier to bring the screw to the front.

-the lock screw is either an E-torx bit, or a 12pt 6mm (or 7mm cant remember) (i pulled a 12 pt screw from my diff, then ordered a new one from the dealer, they gave me an E-torx style)

7. once you get the lock screw out, the metal rod, or pinion shaft will slide out of the carrier.

8. set these parts aside. Now have an assistant (or you could do it yourself) push the end of the axle into the diff, the c clip will now move out of the side gear and become accessible for you to remove them (they just slide out, or even fall out)

9. Repeat step 8 on the opposite side if necessary, (I would do both wheel bearings and seals since you got everything apart)

10. once you get the axles out, and if your side gears didnt fall out, put the pinion shaft back into its spot to hold the gears in place... getting them in if they fall out can be a pain.

11. If only replacing the seal, you can try to pry it from the axle tube using a screw driver, or a chisel.. if you cant get it out, autozone or advance has loaner slide hammers that get the job done pretty good

12. If you are going to replace the bearing, do not throw the old one away once you get it out (only way to get it out is to use the slide hammer) the old one will be used as a punch, to set the new one back in the axle.

13. grease up new bearing and seal (keep your parts free from dirt and sand!!) set the bearing in the axle tube and place your old bearing on top of it, give it a few good wacks with a lump hammer until the new bearing is seated in its place.

14. To put the seal in, lightly tap it into place, you can use the old seal in the same way you used the old bearing.

Install is basically the reverse of the removal. you will have to let me get home to get you the torque specs of the lock screw and diff bolts, i dont remember them from the top of my head.

be sure to scrape all the gasket material from the mating parts of the differential cover. when you are done with scraping the gasket material off, and with putting the c-clips back in, and the pinion shaft and lock screw, give the diff another bath of break fluid, clean it out NICE and let it dry.

use rtv black to make the new gasket.

fill up to the bottom of the fill hole

Good luck and have fun, drink lots of beers.

Yard
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Unread 08-06-2009, 12:40 PM   #6
Coletrickle
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thanks yardman, I appreciate the information. That's a lot of typing...
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Unread 08-07-2009, 09:03 AM   #7
Coletrickle
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Got my axle out, went smooth thanks to your advice fellas. Many thanks.

Didn't get the seal out, didn't try too hard, and company showed up and the beer sounded like more fun. I'll conquer that tonight.

When I pushed in my axle, the c-clip fell right out. Does it matter what way it goes back in? On one side it's slightly marked on the inner part of the C, on the other side it's marked slightly on the outer edge of the C. Didn't see how it was before it fell out. I'd like to put it back the way it was.

Bearing seems good, so I"m going to blame it on 16 year old seals and try to fix it with just a seal...worse comes to worst, I'll buy another $4 seal and a bearing and practice again.

Adrian
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Unread 08-07-2009, 11:36 AM   #8
elmer_fud
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I dont think the direction of the C clip matters. when I removed mine they looked the same on both sides
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedycat View Post
I am not one to be changing lanes at 70 mph on a lifted truck on 33's, but since I am in Miami, I have to be prepared for the continuous influx of new drivers whose previous ride was a bicycle with wooden wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, Mushroom!!! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Or just tie a 12 lb fish to a one foot pipe.
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Unread 08-07-2009, 12:39 PM   #9
gomes512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmonson View Post
You can't replace the seal without replacing the bearing and retainer.
I too thought this was true as my right rear leaked pretty good. Usually means the axle shaft got eaten by the bearing allowing excessive play and improper sealing of the seal to axle shaft.

Anyways, I pulled the shaft and the bearing and axle shaft surface looked good (slight marring), I carefully pryed the old seal out with a flathead leaving the bearing inside alone, used a large socket to hammer the new one in. Leak free ever since.
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Unread 08-07-2009, 12:45 PM   #10
Coletrickle
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That's what I was wanting to hear. I checked my axle and it's smooth and the bearing seems smooth and free.

I was told that sometimes your vent can be clogged causing a buildup of pressure from heat and gases that can cause seals to leak. I noticed my filler plug was seeping too, so I'm gonna be sure and make sure my vent isn't clogged.
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Unread 08-10-2009, 05:40 AM   #11
Coletrickle
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Just a couple follow up notes for any people who may do a search looking for help with axle seals for the D35.

I got mine all back together and no sign of a leak yet.

One thing for newbs to watch out for that no one mentioned to me is that there are little cupped washers/shims behind the spider gears that can fall out when you have the pinion shaft out. I spent half an hour wondering what it was. It must have fell out while I was pulling the axle. I almost put my diff back together with it lying in the bottom of the housing. Good thing I saw it!

I think I found the cause of my leak in the first place. Based on advice from my brother-in-law, I checked my vent and it was plugged. I removed the hose and it was clear, I had to take a piece of wire and unplug the vent where it comes out of the axle housing. It was blocked with grit and rust. This causes seals to blow out when the housing builds up pressure from heat while on extended drives. Good thing to check before you waste another seal.

Adrian
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Unread 08-20-2009, 06:29 AM   #12
thaBrad
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SWEET thread guys! I gotta do mine now, and I feel ready to tackle it after reading this! Thanks!
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Unread 08-20-2009, 03:45 PM   #13
elmer_fud
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Originally Posted by thaBrad View Post
SWEET thread guys! I gotta do mine now, and I feel ready to tackle it after reading this! Thanks!
I don't think WJ's have a c clip axle, so your process is differn't.
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Brian
95 ZJ, 5.2 V8,160,000 miles
Colorado Jeep Club member Pi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedycat View Post
I am not one to be changing lanes at 70 mph on a lifted truck on 33's, but since I am in Miami, I have to be prepared for the continuous influx of new drivers whose previous ride was a bicycle with wooden wheels.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FPKites View Post
badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, Mushroom!!! :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
Or just tie a 12 lb fish to a one foot pipe.
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Unread 08-20-2009, 04:00 PM   #14
ArloGuthroJeep
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Correct, no C-clips on a WJ.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:32 AM   #15
bbehnke
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if the wj has no C-clips, how much different is the process? would you need to get the bearing and seal pressed on?
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