Help with bypass hose on 97 GC 5.2 V8 - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
lunytnz
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Help with bypass hose on 97 GC 5.2 V8

The water pump started leaking like a seive on my 97 GC with teh 5.2L V8. I got my hands on the special tool to hold the water pump pulley so that I could remove the fan and clutch.

Now I'm wondering what special tool I might need to get the bypass hose off (and ultimately replaced) of the water pump (it's the roughly 1" dia hose that connects at the top of the WP to the block, near the thermostat).

The only thing holding the water pump on is that damn hose! There's not room to move the hose clamp up the hose because of the big aluminum mounting bracked (for the AC and Alt) that's in the way. I've tried removing the mounting bracket, but can't get it either.

Any help would be most appreciated!

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post #2 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 01:05 AM
newfieZJ
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Thats a tough little hose to get at . Best you remove the bracket , it shouldn't be that hard . The alt and ac pump can be left on the bracket hooked up and flipped over towards the battery side giving you great access to that hose . It's held on by 6-8 bolts . Don't for get to disco , and possible remove the battery , no need for sparks . I'll look for pics , if I have anything I'll post em up

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post #3 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 01:09 AM
newfieZJ
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here's a great link to help you . It's a plenum gasket write-up but has the pics and the details to do your job ......enjoy

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=461371

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post #4 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 01:31 AM
auditaki
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Really is the easiest way to do this. Remove the PS pump bolts (3) and move it out of the way to the right, then remove the aluminum bracket bolts (8-9) and flip it over to the battery side with accessories attached and supported by a bungy cord. Use knife to slide away the hose (might as well change since it's $2.69 at the auto parts store).

1998 ZJ LTD - 5.2L
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
lunytnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auditaki View Post
Really is the easiest way to do this. Remove the PS pump bolts (3) and move it out of the way to the right, then remove the aluminum bracket bolts (8-9) and flip it over to the battery side with accessories attached and supported by a bungy cord. Use knife to slide away the hose (might as well change since it's $2.69 at the auto parts store).
This certainly makes sense to me and is what I've tried to do. I've removed every bolt I can see on the bracket and it won't budge, so I figure I must be missing something. Is there a tricky bolt I'm likely missing? It IS good to know there's no bolts under the water pump holding the bracket on!

I have the PS pump unbolted already.

Thanks for the link to the pics on that post, that is exactly what I'm looking at and good to know it can all be moved as one assembly.

One other small thing... I need to remove the throttle cable at the throttle body because it's intertwined in the A/C hoses; I have disconnected it at the end, but am having trouble with where it attaches at the bracket. It *looks* like it just snaps in there, but I can't get it to budge and don't want to bust it by just reefing on it with a pair of pliers. How is that connector *supposed* to come off?

BTW, I *wish* that little formed bypass hose cost less than $3! It was $12 for me.

Thanks much! You guys are a GREAT help!
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-12-2009, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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I finally got the bracket off! I had missed the bolt that was underneath the idler pulley (which I kept telling myself could *not* possibly be holding the bracket on--which was true, but there was a bolt for the bracket underneath it, so it had to come off anyway).

Once the bracket was off, I could finally wrestle the hose clamps and a match it was! I had to twist and pry and cuss and all just to get the hose clamp at the block to move down the hose. The only way I got the clamp at the water pump off was to spin it round and round and 'unscrew' it when the pump was off the car. I can only imagine the joy I'm going to have putting that squirrelly hose back on!

BTW, I *love* the notion the manual gives that you don't need to remove the bracket, since it makes no mention of it--yeah, right! Maybe with a smaller hose clamp and only if the pump had recently been installed.

Thanks, again, for the help!
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-17-2009, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Follow-up

A few more things in case someone else is getting ready to tackle the water pump on the 5.2L V8.

I needed a special tool to 'secure' the pulley on the water pump (I tried putting extra tension on the belt with the tensioner, but it wasn't enough). This special tool is a bar about 2 ft. long and comes with two big-mouth (about 1.5", I think) open-end wrenches designed just for this job, that were thin enough to fit between the fan and the pulleys with the holder bar in place. I was able to borrow it from the local, small town, parts store.

I replaced the lower radiator hose while I was at it, plus replacing the bypass hose (I got two of them, each from different parts stores, one was a LOT thicker than the other).

When putting the water pump back on, I put the bypass hose on the pump first, that seemed much easier, since the bend in the hose makes it tough to get the hose clamp in place--might as well do the tough one first!

The metal tube that connects to the heater house (by the valve cover) seems like kind of a loose fit, but it worked out OK. When I took the tube out of the old pump, there was no o-ring on it at all! It's kind of tough to get the right fit where tube goes into the pump, so I put it in right after all the bolts to the water pump. But, I just had to take it back out because one of the bolts for the bracket is behind the heater tube. So, wait until you get the bracket back on before putting the heater tube in (I had to simultaneously fit the end in the pump and the bracket at the valve cover to get it to work out).

All-in-all, it wasn't too terribly difficult. But, it was overly time-consuming trying to get the fan off without the right tool and trying to figure out how come the mounting bracket wouldn't come loose until I finally took off the idler pulley. Other than that, getting the old gasket material off was really tough. It was brittle and stuck on there. I scraped as best I could and then used a wire wheel on my drill to get the last of it.

I hope this helps you to know, in advance, if you have to tackle this job. I figure I could do it all again in about one-quarter the time.

Cheers!
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post #8 of 10 Old 10-09-2017, 03:33 PM
Redbeardscrazy
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Is there a straightforward cause for the bypass hose blowing out or is it 'well, could be a lot of things...'?
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post #9 of 10 Old 10-09-2017, 03:57 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

Instead of reviving an old thread, it is common to instead create a new topic for the specific current issue.

If the hose has failed, then age is the most likely cause.




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post #10 of 10 Old 10-13-2017, 01:23 AM
Uniblurb
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Believe he did create a new thread earlier the same day but never came back and posted what engine he has? On checking it appears he has the 97 5.2.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/c...-leak-4175850/

PS. real nice photo wingless!

96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 96 4.0 XJ (son's)


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